I got a B16A that is darton sleeved qouted good for 40 Psi n 700+Hp.. im not sure if its a open deck sleeve or not head has not been off the car when i bought the car it had it already built in the car... since then iv done alot of other **** N will b taking the head off... when i do if it is a open deck sleeve would it be ok to run a block gaurd also???

 

a block guard is not necessary with aftermarket sleeves

 

ummm....i would have to say no, if somthing strong enough to crack the after market sleeves then those block guard isnt really going to do well.

 

you sleeve a block so you wont have to use a band aid, like a block guard

 

A block guard (being aluminum vs iron) won't prevent any high-rpm deformation. Likewise, the ductile iron won't be moving sideways unless you're maxed out on bore & you pass 10k with a stroker crank.

Regardless, block guards have been used in motors that have still cracked the sleeves. They've shown to be little to no help.

 

I run an open deck sleeve w/ no block guard, also running a thick headgasket, no problems so far.

 

I wouldn't use a block guard on stock sleeve setup, let alone a block with aftermarket sleeves

 

ERL Superdeck 1, my motor, ductile sleeves with a block guard. works fine for me.

from ERL Performance:
Description: The SUPERDECK I system replaces the stock cast iron sleeves, with Darton Ductile Iron sleeves and strengthens the block with a fully machined billet aluminum deck support. The SUPERDECK I offers the cooling capacity of a stock engine (open deck block) with the strength of a racing engine (closed deck block).

 

keeping the deck open is the extra cooling that is afforded to the head gasket, thus less gasket failure and more efficient head cooling.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't use a block guard on stock sleeve setup, let alone a block with aftermarket sleeves</TD></TR></TABLE>

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