I am having problems with the A/C line rubbing against the wastegate actuator highlighted in red in the picture below. Is this going to be a problem or can I leave it as is?



It's as far back as I can get it to go. Any ideas on how I can avoid the actuator?

 

i wouldnt think that would get hot enough to melt it, after all its internally gated. im not 100% though. bump

 

The accentuator mechanism on the turbo isnt going to cause a problem. It wont get hot enough to melt the AC line. You shouldnt have any problems.

 

have you tried notching your ac bracket and pulling the whole radiator forward?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civtek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you tried notching your ac bracket and pulling the whole radiator forward? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes; the radiator has been pulled forward as far as it can go and no matter how I position the a/c line, it still makes contact with the actuator.

So as long as the line doesn't make contact with the turbo itself, i'm ok with it as is right now?

 

just use some heat wrap and you should be fine. The actuator gets hot but really, it shouldn't cause problems, but use some sort of material to separate them if you're a bit uneasy!

 

Another question. What size socket do I need to remove the oil pressure sender for the oil feed? Different sources have different #'s - 23mm, 24mm, 25mm, 15/16" - which one do i need? It's a 1999 b18b motor.

thanks again.

 

can't you clock the wastegate actuator a bit more counter clockwise (going up) and just use the screw on the rod to extend it so it clears the a/c line? just dril new holes on the wastegate mounting plate. or clock the compressor housing altogether.


it looks ok at the pic but when the car is up and running there's gonna be lots of vibrations so there is a chance one of them will get damaged. i'm thinking the a/c line.

 

cut that foam **** off the line and see if its gonna rub on the alum line.

if its able to rub on the line fix it somehow cause itll rub right through in no time.

 

Clocking is a bit out of the question since both housings would have to be turned resulting in DP and IC piping problems.

 

why not put a slight bend in the ac line and maybe trim the fan if need be?

 

You dont need to do nuthin'.. you have a vac line running to that nipple on the internal wastegate and that doesnt melt, so it isnt going to melt the ac shrouding.. trust me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dublocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You dont need to do nuthin'.. you have a vac line running to that nipple on the internal wastegate and that doesnt melt, so it isnt going to melt the ac shrouding.. trust me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true, didn't think about that.

thanks all for the help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another question. What size socket do I need to remove the oil pressure sender for the oil feed? Different sources have different #'s - 23mm, 24mm, 25mm, 15/16" - which one do i need? It's a 1999 b18b motor.

thanks again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

for my car it was a 15/16, i think that was the hardest part of the install, getting in that tight area!!!

 

Melting is not an issue, but motion is. That whole turbo assembly will move when the engine gets under load. Under hard shifts it will literally bang against the AC line. Remember the engine moves in the engine bay.

I would trim off the stupid foam and bend the line to clear the actuator. At least, if you want the AC to stay charged.

Randy

 

rip out the a/c

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RGAZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Melting is not an issue, but motion is. That whole turbo assembly will move when the engine gets under load. Under hard shifts it will literally bang against the AC line. Remember the engine moves in the engine bay.

I would trim off the stupid foam and bend the line to clear the actuator. At least, if you want the AC to stay charged.

Randy</TD></TR></TABLE>

what he said... and also a warning ... if u have the stock greddy dp still .. they have been known to crack and break bolts cuz of the engine torquing... since they dont have a flex pipe.

 

I would be more worried about the air housing being jolted hard by looking at it... unless that a/c line is bare its not gonna rub a hole through it that quickly... you can just check it occasionally to see if the insulation is wearing off and replace that one spot w/insulation tape

but my point is that the diaphram inside the wastegate actuator might get jolted too hard... maybe not, but the way I would fix it is buy a new manifold that supports external wastegates

my last thought is kinda dangerous... since thats the low side line just have it rerouted and fixed up with copper lines so it can be bent around it... but I would say dont do that unless you can find someone with atleast decent knowledge of heating and hair systems... they are tricky on cars

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludelvr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just use some heat wrap and you should be fine. The actuator gets hot but really, it shouldn't cause problems, but use some sort of material to separate them if you're a bit uneasy!</TD></TR></TABLE> i agree

 

I would say get some of that heat wrap crap I see all the time on that same line. Prolly will protect it.

 

Mine does the exact same thing. I just wrapped some extra heat wrap around where it touches and its fine

 

use a 24 mm deep socket on a ratchet... go in from underneith.. it shouldnt be a problem