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When I installed my new turbo I switched from a plate style restrictor to this fitting from ATP Turbo. Problem was my turbo oil inlet has a 1/4" NPT port, and the restrictor fittings only come in 1/8" NPT. So they sent me a 1/8" to 1/4" NPT adapter, and the result is as you see below.
My question is, isn't having the actual restrictor not threaded into the turbo essentially the same as having the plate style restrictor? It seems there would still be a cavity left where the adapter opens up the oil passage before it enters the turbo.
I have looked everywhere for a .060" restrictor fitting that goes from -3AN to 1/4"NPT with no luck. Tried Jegs, Summit, Amazon, etc. Does anybody sell these? Or is it not going to be a big deal? I want to ensure the life span of this turbo and not have it burn up like the last one did.
Oh and I have found some straight -3AN to 1/4"NPT fittings, but not with the .060" restrictor in them.
Having the restrictor setup as shown is fine. even if it wasn't restricted it would still be installed that way when using NPT fittings on a 1/4" inlet cartridge. The problem w/ plate style 1 piece inlet restrictors is that either the oil inlet hole is the wrong size or the plates are made of cheap alum and the AN fittings snap off (from what I've seen). You could also use a bolt on T3 oil inlet plate w/ a 1/8 female center port where the oil restrictor you have would thread right in and lower the overall height. If height isn't an issue then what you have will work fine.
Having the restrictor setup as shown is fine. even if it wasn't restricted it would still be installed that way when using NPT fittings on a 1/4" inlet cartridge. The problem w/ plate style 1 piece inlet restrictors is that either the oil inlet hole is the wrong size or the plates are made of cheap alum and the AN fittings snap off (from what I've seen). You could also use a bolt on T3 oil inlet plate w/ a 1/8 female center port where the oil restrictor you have would thread right in and lower the overall height. If height isn't an issue then what you have will work fine.
Thanks for the added explanation, it does increase my level of confidence but I still have my concerns. On my previous thread, now closed, Shodan had said the issue with the plate restrictors is that they create a cavity on the inlet side of the turbo where the oil will not completely fill or pressurize, so rather than saturating the shaft with incoming oil, it is more of a dripping or spraying effect that will lead to increased temperatures. And sure enough, on my old turbo I had bluing on the shaft, whether it was from the restrictor or someone just overheating/neglecting the oil is hard to say.
With the setup the way I have it, there will still be a cavity in the oil inlet that is increased in size due to the adapter fitting, which is why I am concerned.
Thanks for the added explanation, it does increase my level of confidence but I still have my concerns. On my previous thread, now closed, Shodan had said the issue with the plate restrictors is that they create a cavity on the inlet side of the turbo where the oil will not completely fill or pressurize, so rather than saturating the shaft with incoming oil, it is more of a dripping or spraying effect that will lead to increased temperatures. And sure enough, on my old turbo I had bluing on the shaft, whether it was from the restrictor or someone just overheating/neglecting the oil is hard to say.
With the setup the way I have it, there will still be a cavity in the oil inlet that is increased in size due to the adapter fitting, which is why I am concerned.
Don't know why that section is closed. I've noticed a lot of the FAQs have also had screwed up links for some reason. I'll talk to the Mod Gods about that one, to see if they can reestablish a lot of those.
But, I do want to say, thank you for reading that information regarding the plate vs fitting restrictor issues. However, for your current setup, the cavity that you're thinking (between the adapter fitting and the restrictor fitting. Isn't that much of a concern; at least not as much as the typical flange-styled restrictor. But, to be on the safe side. You can get the 1/4NPT .060" restrictors, that directly bolt right in, without the need of an adapter. Plus it puts less stress on your oil feed line itself.
So, cliffs:
1) Your oil feed restrictor isn't the worst in the world, but could use some cleanup
2) A direct fitting will put less stress on your oil feed line
3) That direct fitting, with some type of inline oil filter is an investment.. So, it should be treated as such.
Hey guys, sorry to piggy back off this thread but I'm still not allowed to make my own thread and this is the first time I haven't gotten a definitive answer from searching.
Currently having a smoking issue on my turbo f22b1. I've narrowed it down to the turbo smoking out of the exhaust side. The turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago but the same smoking issue was not resolved so I figured it was my motor (it had bad valve seals at the time). On the new built motor, it is still smoking at cold idle. 2-3 minutes after cold starting it starts billowing smoke if i'm not driving it. I'm getting about 95-100 psi oil pressure at cold idle. It does not smoke once the oil is hot and the oil pressures drop; and it does not smoke at WOT. It also doesn't smoke at all if i start driving the car cold until i get stuck at a red light.
I am currently running a .065 restrictor for my journal Garrett T3/T4 50 trim. I've already done 2-3 different oil lines/flanges/setups to no avail. Should I run a smaller restrictor? Or is my turbo just busted and the oil end gaps inside are loose
I am currently using a -3AN to -3AN .065 restrictor from ATP turbo. My current feed setup is a ktuned oil pressure switch adapter -> 45 degree 1/8npt to -3AN -> -3 AN line -> -3AN restrictor -> 45degree 1/8npt to -3AN on turbo
Originally Posted by SpiderX1016
Check oil pressure going into the turbo before randomly throwing restrictors at it.
Is your drain big enough?:and is there any kinks in the drain?
I've been recommended this but after pricing out the cost of making a gauge setup for it, it just wasn't in the budget for the time being. I have tried multiple different drain setups. There are no kinks in the drain. My newest drain setup is a straight -10AN to pushlock barb -> 5/8" ID hose -> 45 -10AN to pushlock barb into the oil pan.
I called PureTurbo in San Diego and asked about it and he suggested that it might be the oil end gaps in the turbo leaking. Since it doesnt smoke while driving, he's thinking that if the turbo isnt spooling, the oil isnt getting scraped up and evacuated properly.
Oil end gaps? Do you mean oil sealing rings are not gapped properly and allowing oil to bypass through? If that's what they mean.. Nah. that's not the issue. It could be the angle of the return. You need photos, sir.
Check this link out, and please ID the style and routing of your oil return line.
I've been recommended this but after pricing out the cost of making a gauge setup for it, it just wasn't in the budget for the time being. I have tried multiple different drain setups. There are no kinks in the drain. My newest drain setup is a straight -10AN to pushlock barb -> 5/8" ID hose -> 45 -10AN to pushlock barb into the oil pan.
I called PureTurbo in San Diego and asked about it and he suggested that it might be the oil end gaps in the turbo leaking. Since it doesnt smoke while driving, he's thinking that if the turbo isnt spooling, the oil isnt getting scraped up and evacuated properly.
The tricky part about the drain is it must go continuously down hill to the oil pan, no dips, and it must still enter the oil pan above the level of oil in the pan with the car running. Have you verified that?
The problem you describe is definitely either a drainage issue, or a turbo seals/bearings issue. The restrictor you are using and you oil pressure should not create this scenario.
I had a turbo once that did what you describe. I had it rebuilt professionally, but the problem persisted. Turned out that the previous owner had blown their engine and sent metal shavings into the CHRA which caused irreparable damage.
Oil end gaps? Do you mean oil sealing rings are not gapped properly and allowing oil to bypass through? If that's what they mean.. Nah. that's not the issue. It could be the angle of the return. You need photos, sir.
Check this link out, and please ID the style and routing of your oil return line.
Unfortunately I don't have the car with me right now to get pictures. it's at my friend's shop getting the manifold repaired. My routing is very similar to this photo that was posted in that thread.
The only difference is my location on the pan which is on the "shallow" part of the pain as high as it could be welded. I reclocked my turbo to 0 degrees instead of the ~5 degrees it sat previously when i redid the lines. So the drain is perfectly vertical with a straight fitting out of the turbo going down to a 45 degree fitting at the pan.
Originally Posted by 2x0
The tricky part about the drain is it must go continuously down hill to the oil pan, no dips, and it must still enter the oil pan above the level of oil in the pan with the car running. Have you verified that?
The problem you describe is definitely either a drainage issue, or a turbo seals/bearings issue. The restrictor you are using and you oil pressure should not create this scenario.
I had a turbo once that did what you describe. I had it rebuilt professionally, but the problem persisted. Turned out that the previous owner had blown their engine and sent metal shavings into the CHRA which caused irreparable damage.
Hmm. That could definitely be similar problem that I am having. I bought the turbo used and had it rebuilt by COMP turbo a few years ago and that did not solve the smoking issue. I will likely order a brand new CHRA from ATP turbo when i have the money.
The oil drain bung in the pan looks too low to me. For every setup I've built and seen that's worked, the bung is about as close to the pan gasket flange as it can be. That's where mine is now with a 4qt Moroso pan and oil still comes out of the bung when it's not running.
It also looks as if the bung is at a slight upward angle into the pan, which would worsen the backing up of oil.
The oil drain bung in the pan looks too low to me. For every setup I've built and seen that's worked, the bung is about as close to the pan gasket flange as it can be. That's where mine is now with a 4qt Moroso pan and oil still comes out of the bung when it's not running.
It also looks as if the bung is at a slight upward angle into the pan, which would worsen the backing up of oil.
The picture is not mine. It is from the link Shodan shared. I'm just showing that my setup is similar to that but i noted the location is different on my personal setup which is exactly how you described. It's up close to the pan gasket on the shallow end of my pan.
The picture is not mine. It is from the link Shodan shared. I'm just showing that my setup is similar to that but i noted the location is different on my personal setup which is exactly how you described. It's up close to the pan gasket on the shallow end of my pan.
Might be too far on the shallow end. That is a margin issue for what you're describing
Might be too far on the shallow end. That is a margin issue for what you're describing
Hi Shodan,
That could definitely be a possibility. I managed to find an old picture of the bung on the oil pan. See attached. I've never heard of it being too far over to be a problem :/
Oh yeah. Way too far to the left you're having oil return issues, not restrictor from the oil feed side. And yes, going too shallow can be a problem. But it is one than can be repaired. It will require you to relocate your trap point for a new oil location
Oh yeah. Way too far to the left you're having oil return issues, not restrictor from the oil feed side. And yes, going too shallow can be a problem. But it is one than can be repaired. It will require you to relocate your trap point for a new oil location
Well damn. This could have been fixed when the motor was being built had I known. Would you happen to know how far over I need to move it? I can't put it on the deep end because of my downpipe. Should I just move it over as far as I can?
Well damn. This could have been fixed when the motor was being built had I known. Would you happen to know how far over I need to move it? I can't put it on the deep end because of my downpipe. Should I just move it over as far as I can?
There were some illustrations that were in a link I provided regarding proper location of return lines bungs on the pan. In essence, whatever downpipe you have, it must allow the return line to be at a deeper part of the oil pan.
Well damn. This could have been fixed when the motor was being built had I known. Would you happen to know how far over I need to move it? I can't put it on the deep end because of my downpipe. Should I just move it over as far as I can?
If your downpipe routes under the motor then route the oil drain angled forward sloping down and around the downpipe to the deep side of the pan near the top.
If your downpipe routes under the motor then route the oil drain angled forward sloping down and around the downpipe to the deep side of the pan near the top.
Adding a thermal sleeve will help protect the oil inside the line, and the line itself
Adding a thermal sleeve will help protect the oil inside the line, and the line itself
Originally Posted by Autoworks
If your downpipe routes under the motor then route the oil drain angled forward sloping down and around the downpipe to the deep side of the pan near the top.
Originally Posted by TheShodan
There were some illustrations that were in a link I provided regarding proper location of return lines bungs on the pan. In essence, whatever downpipe you have, it must allow the return line to be at a deeper part of the oil pan.
Thanks for the tips guys. Once my manifold is fixed and the car is back home I'll go ahead and have another oil pan tapped and redo my drain line.
So I haven't done much lately but today made some good progress. I had the turbo rebuilt my Comp Turbo as I noticed some increased shaft play. They also recommended I up my feed line to -4an and run a .065 restrictor with that. After the initial startup I still noticed some smoking but I can't say if its just residue or if my problem persists.
I also looked into my oil drain again. Previously you recommended tapping a new pan but I just havent had the time to do that but I investigated it. There is no obstruction on the inside of the pan behind my drain location. As far as I can tell it is completely clear and It is also the same location that moroso places its oil return line on their race pans.
I guess I'll find out if my issues are fixed over the next few days. Here are a few pics of my drain setup as I havent provided a clear picture before.
03-29-2018, 02:42 AM
Oil Restrictor Question
