Oil Psi Question
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Oil Psi Question
I recently got an electric oil psi guage from a friend (free), i want a mechanical one but i figure for free y not try it out....i hook it up and start my car and the thing reads 75psi......is that normal? or would you say my guage is wrong.....when i go into boost it reads upwards of 100.....now i do have a oil leak in my feed line (found out today) I dont kno if that would cuase it to read high. Any info would be helpful...and if you have a mechanical gauge for sale that would be good to... Oh yea the gauge is Faze
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Re: Oil Psi Question (Stylinhonda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF’n Turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recently got an electric oil psi guage from a friend (free), i want a mechanical one but i figure for free y not try it out....i hook it up and start my car and the thing reads 75psi......is that normal? or would you say my guage is wrong.....when i go into boost it reads upwards of 100.....now i do have a oil leak in my feed line (found out today) I dont kno if that would cuase it to read high. Any info would be helpful...and if you have a mechanical gauge for sale that would be good to... Oh yea the gauge is Faze</TD></TR></TABLE>
Faze? that can be the start of your problems. and no, 75psi is not normal idle but if the car is cold then possible, if you are getting 100+ oil pressure then its obvious theres sumthin wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stylinhonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Id like to know some about this too. I always thought the electric oil pressure gauges were better?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, electric oil pressure gauges ARE better. unless you want to run your oil line thru ur firewall and into your interior and risk having a major oil leak inside your car. The external sensors offered on an electric gauge is more accurate then the oil pressure traveling into the back of the gauge itself.
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mechanical and oil leaks
Faze? that can be the start of your problems. and no, 75psi is not normal idle but if the car is cold then possible, if you are getting 100+ oil pressure then its obvious theres sumthin wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stylinhonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Id like to know some about this too. I always thought the electric oil pressure gauges were better?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, electric oil pressure gauges ARE better. unless you want to run your oil line thru ur firewall and into your interior and risk having a major oil leak inside your car. The external sensors offered on an electric gauge is more accurate then the oil pressure traveling into the back of the gauge itself.
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mechanical and oil leaks
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Re: Oil Psi Question (Stylinhonda)
Faze a bad gauge???.....I went to their web-site and their gauges cost as much if not more than auto-meter......I have a Faze boost guage and it works great
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Re: Oil Psi Question (EF'n Turbo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF’n Turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went to their web-site and their gauges cost as much if not more than auto-meter</TD></TR></TABLE>
Auto-meter isn't the best either unless you get the race quality stuff
Auto-meter isn't the best either unless you get the race quality stuff
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Re: Oil Psi Question (Stylinhonda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stylinhonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet thats what I was thinking. What should be the normal oil pressure readings? </TD></TR></TABLE>
it could rele depend on the viscosity of your oil and oil filter you use but on average: 20-30psi idle, 50-60psi idle (cold upon start-up), 50-60psi WOT. most oil pressure gauges used for hondas are 0-100psi. especially if your turbo, i dunt think you wanna see more than 70-75psi because the seals on the turbo will go.
it could rele depend on the viscosity of your oil and oil filter you use but on average: 20-30psi idle, 50-60psi idle (cold upon start-up), 50-60psi WOT. most oil pressure gauges used for hondas are 0-100psi. especially if your turbo, i dunt think you wanna see more than 70-75psi because the seals on the turbo will go.
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Re: Oil Psi Question (EF'n Turbo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF’n Turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Faze a bad gauge???.....I went to their web-site and their gauges cost as much if not more than auto-meter......I have a Faze boost guage and it works great</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh, well i havent heard much of faze and their gauges being sold here around honda-tech. the cost isn't everything, its rele how well they work and feedback. after reading this link, faze is sold at pep boyz and didnt have any real good feedback. well free is free, and stick with that electric gauge over a mechanical one
oh, well i havent heard much of faze and their gauges being sold here around honda-tech. the cost isn't everything, its rele how well they work and feedback. after reading this link, faze is sold at pep boyz and didnt have any real good feedback. well free is free, and stick with that electric gauge over a mechanical one
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Re: Oil Psi Question (integra_LSR)
well at startup when cold mine reads 80 psi, at fully warmed it reads 15psi at idle and under WOT I read 60 dropping to 40 when Vtec hits.
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Re: Oil Psi Question (integra_LSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra_LSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh, well i havent heard much of faze and their gauges being sold here around honda-tech. the cost isn't everything, its rele how well they work and feedback. after reading this link, faze is sold at pep boyz and didnt have any real good feedback. well free is free, and stick with that electric gauge over a mechanical one </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, oh yea after reading my post i think i may have come off as being a jerk, if you got that impression too im sorry, my intentions werent to sound like that, i appreciate your info!
ANOTHER question......My oil psi at start-up is 75 and it dropps to 70 when warm...when i boost is sometimes jumps to 100 (depending on how much throttle)....IF my psi is really that high wouldnt it make my motor run funny or even break? I wanna think that my gauge is faulty
oh, well i havent heard much of faze and their gauges being sold here around honda-tech. the cost isn't everything, its rele how well they work and feedback. after reading this link, faze is sold at pep boyz and didnt have any real good feedback. well free is free, and stick with that electric gauge over a mechanical one </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, oh yea after reading my post i think i may have come off as being a jerk, if you got that impression too im sorry, my intentions werent to sound like that, i appreciate your info!
ANOTHER question......My oil psi at start-up is 75 and it dropps to 70 when warm...when i boost is sometimes jumps to 100 (depending on how much throttle)....IF my psi is really that high wouldnt it make my motor run funny or even break? I wanna think that my gauge is faulty
#11
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Re: Oil Psi Question (EF'n Turbo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF’n Turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks, oh yea after reading my post i think i may have come off as being a jerk, if you got that impression too im sorry, my intentions werent to sound like that, i appreciate your info!
ANOTHER question......My oil psi at start-up is 75 and it dropps to 70 when warm...when i boost is sometimes jumps to 100 (depending on how much throttle)....IF my psi is really that high wouldnt it make my motor run funny or even break? I wanna think that my gauge is faulty</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah i didnt take it the wrong way. but yea, for the pressure ur running seems rele high. i just tried searching for a post of people posting their oil pressure and there are a lot of posts! just search oil pressure and you'll find that for turbo, idle should be around 15-25 and at WOT should be 50-75. like i said earlier, hopefully your gauge is just broken because you shouldn't have such high oil pressure. the gauge might not be calibrated accurately. make some extra money off that free gauge and buy a new one. i recommend the electric oil pressure gauges that autometer offers, mines perfect
Thanks, oh yea after reading my post i think i may have come off as being a jerk, if you got that impression too im sorry, my intentions werent to sound like that, i appreciate your info!
ANOTHER question......My oil psi at start-up is 75 and it dropps to 70 when warm...when i boost is sometimes jumps to 100 (depending on how much throttle)....IF my psi is really that high wouldnt it make my motor run funny or even break? I wanna think that my gauge is faulty</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah i didnt take it the wrong way. but yea, for the pressure ur running seems rele high. i just tried searching for a post of people posting their oil pressure and there are a lot of posts! just search oil pressure and you'll find that for turbo, idle should be around 15-25 and at WOT should be 50-75. like i said earlier, hopefully your gauge is just broken because you shouldn't have such high oil pressure. the gauge might not be calibrated accurately. make some extra money off that free gauge and buy a new one. i recommend the electric oil pressure gauges that autometer offers, mines perfect
#13
Re: Oil Psi Question (EF'n Turbo)
-Oil pressure is based on RPM, not boost/vacuum/throttle/anything else. As the RPMs rise, so does your pressure.
-Your pressure will be lowest at idle, and highest around 4,000 RPMs. After about 4,000 RPMs, the pressure relief valve in the oil pump will open and the pressure will stop climbing.
-When you start the car, the pressure will read extremely high. The oil needs time to heat up and thin out before the pressure drops. Note, this is not related to engine temp - the engine will reach normal operating temp much much sooner than the oil.
-For reference, on my D16, the pressure at startup is 90psi. After roughly 20 minutes of idling, the oil reaches full operating temp and the pressure drops to 25psi. At ~4k rpms, the pressure is back up to 90psi where it remains up to redline (8,500 RPMs.
-Mechanical gauges are disliked because they involve routing fluids (oil) into the cabin. If they leak, your interior is ruined.
-Electrical gauges are even more disliked because they use "senders" which tend to break and/or fail. If one breaks, you will lose all your oil and potentially destroy your entire motor. If one fails, you will see your pressure reading suddenly drop to zero and you will freak out, turn off your car, get it towed home, and start trouble-shooting as to why you lost pressure when in actuality the crappy sender just failed.
-Case in point - I use electric gauges for hassle-free installation, but most people prefer mechanical for long-term reliability.
-Your pressure will be lowest at idle, and highest around 4,000 RPMs. After about 4,000 RPMs, the pressure relief valve in the oil pump will open and the pressure will stop climbing.
-When you start the car, the pressure will read extremely high. The oil needs time to heat up and thin out before the pressure drops. Note, this is not related to engine temp - the engine will reach normal operating temp much much sooner than the oil.
-For reference, on my D16, the pressure at startup is 90psi. After roughly 20 minutes of idling, the oil reaches full operating temp and the pressure drops to 25psi. At ~4k rpms, the pressure is back up to 90psi where it remains up to redline (8,500 RPMs.
-Mechanical gauges are disliked because they involve routing fluids (oil) into the cabin. If they leak, your interior is ruined.
-Electrical gauges are even more disliked because they use "senders" which tend to break and/or fail. If one breaks, you will lose all your oil and potentially destroy your entire motor. If one fails, you will see your pressure reading suddenly drop to zero and you will freak out, turn off your car, get it towed home, and start trouble-shooting as to why you lost pressure when in actuality the crappy sender just failed.
-Case in point - I use electric gauges for hassle-free installation, but most people prefer mechanical for long-term reliability.
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Re: Oil Psi Question (EnzoSpeed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-Mechanical gauges are disliked because they involve routing fluids (oil) into the cabin. If they leak, your interior is ruined.
-Electrical gauges are even more disliked because they use "senders" which tend to break and/or fail. If one breaks, you will lose all your oil and potentially destroy your entire motor. If one fails, you will see your pressure reading suddenly drop to zero and you will freak out, turn off your car, get it towed home, and start trouble-shooting as to why you lost pressure when in actuality the crappy sender just failed.
-Case in point - I use electric gauges for hassle-free installation, but most people prefer mechanical for long-term reliability.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what kind (brand) of gauge do you have?
-Mechanical gauges are disliked because they involve routing fluids (oil) into the cabin. If they leak, your interior is ruined.
-Electrical gauges are even more disliked because they use "senders" which tend to break and/or fail. If one breaks, you will lose all your oil and potentially destroy your entire motor. If one fails, you will see your pressure reading suddenly drop to zero and you will freak out, turn off your car, get it towed home, and start trouble-shooting as to why you lost pressure when in actuality the crappy sender just failed.
-Case in point - I use electric gauges for hassle-free installation, but most people prefer mechanical for long-term reliability.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what kind (brand) of gauge do you have?
#16
Re: Oil Psi Question (EnzoSpeed)
I've vowed to not use electric oil pressure gauges for the reason listed above. I don't trust the senders and a steel braided line in the cabin will make me feel better than that electric sender.
#18
Re: Oil Psi Question (EF'n Turbo)
I jerry rigged an air meter setup to calibrate the boost gage. Maybe I should have done the oil too!
I don't think it matters whether air pressure or oil pressure is hitting the sender.
I don't think it matters whether air pressure or oil pressure is hitting the sender.
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Re: Oil Psi Question (EnzoSpeed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Autometer... ick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you mention how the sender on the autometer oil pressure gauge tends to break. yes, they do break, when they are screwed on behind the block. its common sense that the unit's weight cannot be supported by screwing it onto the back of the block, the motor's vibration will obviously crack the unit. BUT if you do it the right way, have an oil line teed off from the back of the block and have the oil line route straight to the sender and mount the sender onto the side anywhere in the engine bay (with enough slack in the oil line) then you wont have any problems. me and my buddy connected our autometer senders the correct way and its funny, its lasted us almost 3 years. enjoy your mechanical gauge
so you mention how the sender on the autometer oil pressure gauge tends to break. yes, they do break, when they are screwed on behind the block. its common sense that the unit's weight cannot be supported by screwing it onto the back of the block, the motor's vibration will obviously crack the unit. BUT if you do it the right way, have an oil line teed off from the back of the block and have the oil line route straight to the sender and mount the sender onto the side anywhere in the engine bay (with enough slack in the oil line) then you wont have any problems. me and my buddy connected our autometer senders the correct way and its funny, its lasted us almost 3 years. enjoy your mechanical gauge
#20
Re: Oil Psi Question (integra_LSR)
I don't remember anyone mentioning how they hooked up thier gauge, but mine was mounted on the firewall just as you describe and I still had reading issues.
I WILL enjoy the mechanical gauge.
I WILL enjoy the mechanical gauge.
#22
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Re: Oil Psi Question (stealthmode62)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealthmode62 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I don't remember anyone mentioning how they hooked up thier gauge, but mine was mounted on the firewall just as you describe and I still had reading issues.
I WILL enjoy the mechanical gauge. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well when your gauge breaks and you have oil flooded into your interior, i'll try not to laugh. the incorrect readings are from a bad sender, so i can replace my sender for less than half the price for you to replace your gauge when it breaks(excluding the cost to get that oil out of your interior)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sc4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So its a draw </TD></TR></TABLE>
no it aint haha
I WILL enjoy the mechanical gauge. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well when your gauge breaks and you have oil flooded into your interior, i'll try not to laugh. the incorrect readings are from a bad sender, so i can replace my sender for less than half the price for you to replace your gauge when it breaks(excluding the cost to get that oil out of your interior)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sc4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So its a draw </TD></TR></TABLE>
no it aint haha
#23
Re: Oil Psi Question (integra_LSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra_LSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so you mention how the sender on the autometer oil pressure gauge tends to break. yes, they do break, when they are screwed on behind the block. its common sense that the unit's weight cannot be supported by screwing it onto the back of the block, the motor's vibration will obviously crack the unit. BUT if you do it the right way, have an oil line teed off from the back of the block and have the oil line route straight to the sender and mount the sender onto the side anywhere in the engine bay (with enough slack in the oil line) then you wont have any problems. me and my buddy connected our autometer senders the correct way and its funny, its lasted us almost 3 years. enjoy your mechanical gauge </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you talking to me? Because I said I'm using an electic gauge. My sender is mounted to the firewall. And I still think Autometer senders blow. And yes, I definitely think it's a draw.
so you mention how the sender on the autometer oil pressure gauge tends to break. yes, they do break, when they are screwed on behind the block. its common sense that the unit's weight cannot be supported by screwing it onto the back of the block, the motor's vibration will obviously crack the unit. BUT if you do it the right way, have an oil line teed off from the back of the block and have the oil line route straight to the sender and mount the sender onto the side anywhere in the engine bay (with enough slack in the oil line) then you wont have any problems. me and my buddy connected our autometer senders the correct way and its funny, its lasted us almost 3 years. enjoy your mechanical gauge </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you talking to me? Because I said I'm using an electic gauge. My sender is mounted to the firewall. And I still think Autometer senders blow. And yes, I definitely think it's a draw.
#24
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Re: Oil Psi Question (EnzoSpeed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you talking to me? Because I said I'm using an electic gauge. My sender is mounted to the firewall. And I still think Autometer senders blow. And yes, I definitely think it's a draw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no i'm not rele talkin to anyone specific at all. only the people that use mechanical oil pressure gauges.
Are you talking to me? Because I said I'm using an electic gauge. My sender is mounted to the firewall. And I still think Autometer senders blow. And yes, I definitely think it's a draw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no i'm not rele talkin to anyone specific at all. only the people that use mechanical oil pressure gauges.