oil pressure sensor..autometer..?
Joined: May 2005
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From: Simi Valley, CA, USA
Re: oil pressure gauge sensor..autometer..? (turboH22Aakkord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboH22Aakkord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hey, where did you get that adapter piece with the stock pressure sensor on it? i found it once on a site, but i cant member where it was... thanks man...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the Tuner Toys adapter (tunertoys.com). It costs about $20. And just to clarify, although it looks brass in the picture, it's really made out of some kind of plated steel, so it's not going to break like brass.
hey, where did you get that adapter piece with the stock pressure sensor on it? i found it once on a site, but i cant member where it was... thanks man...
</TD></TR></TABLE>That's the Tuner Toys adapter (tunertoys.com). It costs about $20. And just to clarify, although it looks brass in the picture, it's really made out of some kind of plated steel, so it's not going to break like brass.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Kansas, USA
Re: oil pressure gauge sensor..autometer..? (EnzoSpeed)
I did the same thing. Just run a line from the block to a remote loction on the firewall. Hell, back when i was all-motor, i just used a bspt adapter on the block, brass barbed fittings and NAPA "red" high-temp oil hose and it held up for several years. Went SS when I went turbo though
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From: St. Charels, MO
Re: oil pressure gauge sensor..autometer..? (yellowhonda88)
happend to me the night before national prelude meet this year. happend at about 2 am, got it out with my fingers thank god.
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From: Charleston, Maine, USA
Re: oil pressure gauge sensor..autometer..? (EnzoSpeed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's the Tuner Toys adapter (tunertoys.com). It costs about $20. And just to clarify, although it looks brass in the picture, it's really made out of some kind of plated steel, so it's not going to break like brass.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for that site man!
That's the Tuner Toys adapter (tunertoys.com). It costs about $20. And just to clarify, although it looks brass in the picture, it's really made out of some kind of plated steel, so it's not going to break like brass.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for that site man!
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Portland, Oregon
Re: (Civicman86)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicman86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where can you get a short amount of SS line for this purpose. I need to redo mine and mount the send on the wall.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got mine made at a local Napa Auto for like 12 bucks. It is not as pretty as SS but it blends in nicley with the rest of the hoses on the back side of my block. The hose is a rubber coated hose with multiple layers of steel braids in it. They say it is good for like 2000 Psi so I am not worried about leaks nor have I had one yet. I will try to post a picture tonight.
I got mine made at a local Napa Auto for like 12 bucks. It is not as pretty as SS but it blends in nicley with the rest of the hoses on the back side of my block. The hose is a rubber coated hose with multiple layers of steel braids in it. They say it is good for like 2000 Psi so I am not worried about leaks nor have I had one yet. I will try to post a picture tonight.
Joined: May 2005
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From: Mechanicsville, MD, US
Re: (92bubblesi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92bubblesi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got mine made at a local Napa Auto for like 12 bucks. It is not as pretty as SS but it blends in nicley with the rest of the hoses on the back side of my block. The hose is a rubber coated hose with multiple layers of steel braids in it. They say it is good for like 2000 Psi so I am not worried about leaks nor have I had one yet. I will try to post a picture tonight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What kind of fittings do you use with that? Hose barbs or what?
What kind of fittings do you use with that? Hose barbs or what?
Joined: May 2005
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From: Simi Valley, CA, USA
Re: (92bubblesi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92bubblesi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I got mine made at a local Napa Auto for like 12 bucks. It is not as pretty as SS but it blends in nicley with the rest of the hoses on the back side of my block. The hose is a rubber coated hose with multiple layers of steel braids in it. They say it is good for like 2000 Psi so I am not worried about leaks nor have I had one yet. I will try to post a picture tonight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There's lots of hoses that can handle 1000+psi, but thats not the problem - it's usually hard to get a leak free connection at the hose ends.
By the way, $12 is about what an S.S. line costs. Of course the fittings cost more, but what's another $20 when you're dealing with something this important.
I got mine made at a local Napa Auto for like 12 bucks. It is not as pretty as SS but it blends in nicley with the rest of the hoses on the back side of my block. The hose is a rubber coated hose with multiple layers of steel braids in it. They say it is good for like 2000 Psi so I am not worried about leaks nor have I had one yet. I will try to post a picture tonight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There's lots of hoses that can handle 1000+psi, but thats not the problem - it's usually hard to get a leak free connection at the hose ends.
By the way, $12 is about what an S.S. line costs. Of course the fittings cost more, but what's another $20 when you're dealing with something this important.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: B.C. Canada
Re: (EnzoSpeed)
O.K. this may sound stupid, but are you guy using mechanical gauges or electrical? I am thinking about getting this oil press. gauge from Autometer: http://www.autometer.com/cat_g...sid=7
Would I have to worry about anything breaking with this gauge? And does this gauge involve me mounting the sender unit on the firewall?
Would I have to worry about anything breaking with this gauge? And does this gauge involve me mounting the sender unit on the firewall?
Joined: May 2005
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From: Simi Valley, CA, USA
Re: (Bond)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">O.K. this may sound stupid, but are you guy using mechanical gauges or electrical?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Only electric gauges have senders. Mechanical gauges do not use senders - the oil line routes directly into the back of the gauge.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Would I have to worry about anything breaking with this gauge? And does this gauge involve me mounting the sender unit on the firewall?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes and yes. You will understand when you see how incredibly large and heavy the sender it - common sense will tell you that you need to mount it to the firewall.
If you want to avoid all this hassle, then get a mechanical gauge. They don't use senders, so there is no chance of sender failure. Plus they are cheaper than electric gauges. The only downside is that you have to route the oil line into your interior to feed the gauge, and some people don't like routing fluids past the firewall.
Only electric gauges have senders. Mechanical gauges do not use senders - the oil line routes directly into the back of the gauge.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Would I have to worry about anything breaking with this gauge? And does this gauge involve me mounting the sender unit on the firewall?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes and yes. You will understand when you see how incredibly large and heavy the sender it - common sense will tell you that you need to mount it to the firewall.
If you want to avoid all this hassle, then get a mechanical gauge. They don't use senders, so there is no chance of sender failure. Plus they are cheaper than electric gauges. The only downside is that you have to route the oil line into your interior to feed the gauge, and some people don't like routing fluids past the firewall.
Joined: May 2005
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From: Simi Valley, CA, USA
Re: (swlabhot)
I'm using AN-3 because my turbo feed splices off the same line.
But, if you are simply routing the ss line to the sender, any size will work. It's impossible to go too small, that's the beauty of fluid pressure.
But, if you are simply routing the ss line to the sender, any size will work. It's impossible to go too small, that's the beauty of fluid pressure.
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From: Florida
Re: (EnzoSpeed)
Yeah you can go as small as you want, just make sure to maintain the size all the way to the sender. If you don't then the gauge will not react as fast as you may like. Example, when I got my Oil pressure and Oil temp gauges i used the small nylon line from the back of the block to a rubber line, about twice the size. The gauge reacted very slowly. So I changed out the nylon for a rubber one, now the gauge is fast.
Pics for reference.
In this picture you can see my stock pressure, my autometer pressure unit, and my autometer temp unit.
In this picture you can see my bnpt --> npt fitting from mcmastercarr or whatever.
I have no leaks whatsoever with my setup, however I will change my firewall line to ss when I also mount my feed line to my turbo from the firewall. Im doing this because maybe when the rubber line heats up it expands, so it doesn't give an accurate measurement, but I will see.
Pics for reference.
In this picture you can see my stock pressure, my autometer pressure unit, and my autometer temp unit.
In this picture you can see my bnpt --> npt fitting from mcmastercarr or whatever.
I have no leaks whatsoever with my setup, however I will change my firewall line to ss when I also mount my feed line to my turbo from the firewall. Im doing this because maybe when the rubber line heats up it expands, so it doesn't give an accurate measurement, but I will see.
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From: B.C. Canada
Re: (EnzoSpeed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes and yes. You will understand when you see how incredibly large and heavy the sender it - common sense will tell you that you need to mount it to the firewall.
If you want to avoid all this hassle, then get a mechanical gauge. They don't use senders, so there is no chance of sender failure. Plus they are cheaper than electric gauges. The only downside is that you have to route the oil line into your interior to feed the gauge, and some people don't like routing fluids past the firewall.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow! Just saw Riake's pics and that thing really is huge. I'm going with the mechanical one cause oil past the firewall doesn't bother me. You just got to make sure you seal it right the first time. So SS lines from the back of the block to the gauge would be best, right? Thanks EnzoSpeed. Your a very helpful dude
If you want to avoid all this hassle, then get a mechanical gauge. They don't use senders, so there is no chance of sender failure. Plus they are cheaper than electric gauges. The only downside is that you have to route the oil line into your interior to feed the gauge, and some people don't like routing fluids past the firewall.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow! Just saw Riake's pics and that thing really is huge. I'm going with the mechanical one cause oil past the firewall doesn't bother me. You just got to make sure you seal it right the first time. So SS lines from the back of the block to the gauge would be best, right? Thanks EnzoSpeed. Your a very helpful dude
Joined: May 2005
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From: Simi Valley, CA, USA
Re: (Bond)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So SS lines from the back of the block to the gauge would be best, right? Thanks EnzoSpeed. Your a very helpful dude </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well the SS lines are mainly for turbo setups - you need the larger line because oil is actually flowing through it to get to the turbo.
But if you are just tapping into the block to monitor your oil pressure, you don't need the SS line because the oil doesn't actually flow anywhere. You will be fine using the nylon line that Autometer includes with the gauge.
So SS lines from the back of the block to the gauge would be best, right? Thanks EnzoSpeed. Your a very helpful dude
</TD></TR></TABLE>Well the SS lines are mainly for turbo setups - you need the larger line because oil is actually flowing through it to get to the turbo.
But if you are just tapping into the block to monitor your oil pressure, you don't need the SS line because the oil doesn't actually flow anywhere. You will be fine using the nylon line that Autometer includes with the gauge.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: B.C. Canada
Re: (EnzoSpeed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well the SS lines are mainly for turbo setups - you need the larger line because oil is actually flowing through it to get to the turbo.
But if you are just tapping into the block to monitor your oil pressure, you don't need the SS line because the oil doesn't actually flow anywhere. You will be fine using the nylon line that Autometer includes with the gauge.</TD></TR></TABLE>
O.K. Thanks again....you da man!
Well the SS lines are mainly for turbo setups - you need the larger line because oil is actually flowing through it to get to the turbo.
But if you are just tapping into the block to monitor your oil pressure, you don't need the SS line because the oil doesn't actually flow anywhere. You will be fine using the nylon line that Autometer includes with the gauge.</TD></TR></TABLE>
O.K. Thanks again....you da man!
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Portland, Oregon
Re: (EnzoSpeed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's lots of hoses that can handle 1000+psi, but thats not the problem - it's usually hard to get a leak free connection at the hose ends.
By the way, $12 is about what an S.S. line costs. Of course the fittings cost more, but what's another $20 when you're dealing with something this important.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The ends use 1/8th npt so I am not worried about leaks and I have not seen one yet. I remember seeing the ends before they pressed the hose on to them. They probably go 1.5 - 2 inches into the hose so it is a good solid seal.
I couldn't find any SS lines so that is why I had this hose made. I was going to use this until I could find a SS line but I think I like this hose better and am not going to replace it.
By the way, $12 is about what an S.S. line costs. Of course the fittings cost more, but what's another $20 when you're dealing with something this important.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The ends use 1/8th npt so I am not worried about leaks and I have not seen one yet. I remember seeing the ends before they pressed the hose on to them. They probably go 1.5 - 2 inches into the hose so it is a good solid seal.
I couldn't find any SS lines so that is why I had this hose made. I was going to use this until I could find a SS line but I think I like this hose better and am not going to replace it.
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KeithGSR
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