Oil pan tap?
01-09-2006, 01:00 PM
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Oil pan tap?
Anyone have a step by step of how to tap your oil pan for a turbo? with like all the parts you used? pics if possible?
01-09-2006, 02:25 PM
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Re: Oil pan tap? (userdead626)
Before you tap the pan, I would recommend mounting your manifold/turbo to get an idea of where the best place to tap will be. If you can't get a visual of how the slope will be with the manifold/turbo mounted, than you should wait to tap the pan.
My experience is in tapping the pan for a barbed fitting. Take a drill slightly smaller than the threads of the barb fitting and drill through your oil pan in the spot you previously marked. After the pan is drilled, take a file, a small grinding wheel, ect, ect. and start opening up the hole. Constantly check the barb fitting to the pan to make sure you don't drill too large of a hole.
Keep opening the hole until you can just get the barb fitting to start threading in. Get a socket and start tightening it. Before the head of the barb meets the pan, take this time to put some type of sealer around the edges of the hole. There are many sealers that will do the job, but I myself can't shake my love for JB weld. After this sealer is applied, you can then continue tightening the barb until it meets the pan. Don't over tighten it. It's riding on one thread most of the time, and more than torquing it, you should be concerned with just having the head meet the pan.
Let your JB weld dry, and then apply another coat around the diameter of the barb where it meets your pan. Give it time to dry, and you won't have a problem.
My experience is in tapping the pan for a barbed fitting. Take a drill slightly smaller than the threads of the barb fitting and drill through your oil pan in the spot you previously marked. After the pan is drilled, take a file, a small grinding wheel, ect, ect. and start opening up the hole. Constantly check the barb fitting to the pan to make sure you don't drill too large of a hole.
Keep opening the hole until you can just get the barb fitting to start threading in. Get a socket and start tightening it. Before the head of the barb meets the pan, take this time to put some type of sealer around the edges of the hole. There are many sealers that will do the job, but I myself can't shake my love for JB weld. After this sealer is applied, you can then continue tightening the barb until it meets the pan. Don't over tighten it. It's riding on one thread most of the time, and more than torquing it, you should be concerned with just having the head meet the pan.
Let your JB weld dry, and then apply another coat around the diameter of the barb where it meets your pan. Give it time to dry, and you won't have a problem.
01-09-2006, 04:54 PM
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Re: (stealthmode62)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealthmode62 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You must have missed the "JB Weld" part of the instructions. lol. I weld all mine on too. 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
um no i mean a real weld using a machine they call a "welder"
</TD></TR></TABLE>um no i mean a real weld using a machine they call a "welder"
01-09-2006, 05:18 PM
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Re: (mike93eh)
You REALLY need to get it welded professionally, I could not get it to stop leaking for anything, I used a bulkhead fitting, gasket sealer, washers JB weld.... everything. I just gave up and bought a new oil pan and got one welded on. No more problems, but as already said- MAKE SURE TO PUT IT IN THE RIGHT PLACE!!!!
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01-09-2006, 06:01 PM
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Re: (mike93eh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um no i mean a real weld using a machine they call a "welder" </TD></TR></TABLE>
ut oh, the moral high ground has been established.
I should 1-up you and buy a toyota prius. 
</TD></TR></TABLE>ut oh, the moral high ground has been established.
I should 1-up you and buy a toyota prius.
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