45bux? I think I spent less. Including my oil drain parts.

 

Ok ill try and sum it ALLLLL up down here... lemme see what i can do. Im doing this in notepad so gimme a break if I fuxor the links or syntax


There are primarily TWO different routes when doing the turbo feed line:
<FONT COLOR="blue">option 1Teeing off at the block, and sending from there</FONT>

or

<FONT COLOR="red">option 2Sending from the block to a tee on the firewall</FONT>


I do <FONT SIZE="2">NOT</FONT> recommend going the route of option 1, but I will still include it. There are ways of using different tees, but these are the ones I could find quickly.
For this thread, I will be making those two color specific from each other, and maintain those colors to denote which parts you will need for each.

I have provided real pictures of the parts along the way.

The following list is taken from McMaster.com, and has their corresponding part numbers and prices. I will be moving from engine block to turbo

<u>BSPT - NPT Adapter</u>



<FONT SIZE="3"><FONT COLOR="red">Addendum: there is an error on my part, props to FwdCivicHatch for pickin it up... the BSPT male to NPT female has the correct part number above (4092k11) and incorrect part number throughout the writeup</FONT></FONT>

You will need this part for <FONT COLOR="blue">option 1</FONT>, and <FONT COLOR="red">option 2</FONT>. This is the adapter that converts the threads on the back of the block to a thread pitch more readily available and not so rare.


This part screws into the block, replacing the stock oil pressure sender near the oil filter



If choosing <FONT COLOR="blue">option 1</FONT>, you will need to place a tee on the block, as shown here:
The highlighted YELLOW rows is the 1/8” NPT size, the one you will need.


<u>Braided hose assembly</u>
Again, you will need this part for <FONT COLOR="blue">option 1</FONT>, and <FONT COLOR="red">option 2</FONT>. This is the hose which carries oil from the block, in the direction of the turbo. It's length is dependent on whether or not you pursue <FONT COLOR="blue">option 1</FONT> or <FONT COLOR="red">option 2</FONT>.

For <FONT COLOR="blue">1</FONT> you will need approx 48-60 inches of this hose to reach the turbo. Corresponding part numbers can be found in the highlighted row of the provided chart of hoses. This is the last piece you need in the kit, unless a 45-degree elbow is needed at the turbo inlet, in which case I will provide a part number

For <FONT COLOR="red">2</FONT> you will need 24 inches of this hose to reach the firewall. Part numbers are different between brass ends or stainless ends, simple preference. Again, consult the chart for part numbers.

Male union to male union simply means that the hose itself has female ends, but includes male to male unions, similar to Earls Swivel fit ends, and AN to Pipe thread adapters.

Note how the male union to male union has a removable fitting, this makes the assembly of the line a lot easier than a fixed end.



<u>Tee for distribution of oil</u>
This piece distributes the oil from the motor to the oil pressure sensor, and the turbo. In my case, I anticipated two oil pressure sensors (stock, and aftermarket) so I needed two tees as shown here:


And oriented like so, using a male to male hex nipple (see next diagram)



Notice that from those tees I have 4 outlets once assembled. One of these outlets receives the oil; one of the outlets on the tee sends oil to the turbo. The two other outlets are for oil pressure senders. If you have only the STOCK oil pressure sender, then you can get away with only one tee on the firewall. However, I anticipated the installation of an aftermarket sender so I prepared the tees by simply installing a plug into one of the ports.


Also, if you plan on keeping the stock oil pressure sender, you will need yet another adapter to convert from the NPT threads back to those BSPT threads. This is the adapter you need:


Note how the female side has BSPT etched in it. You will need a 24 mm wrench to get the oil pressure sender in there nicely.


<u>Braided hose from tee to turbo</u>
This second hose is needed for <FONT COLOR="red">option 2</FONT> only. From the tee, you will obviously need another section of the braided hose. I used a 48” section of hose from the tee to the turbo, and it fit very nicely. Here is a chart that lists the different hose ends (<FONT COLOR="808080">Stainless</FONT>, or <FONT COLOR="daa520">Brass</FONT>) and the price for each. Remember to add on the extra inches and get the new price for the longer hose. Highlighted in yellow is the male union to male union, 1/8” NPT fittings with an inner diameter of 3/16Ô (-3 AN)


Also, once the line reaches the turbo you might need a nice 45 degree fitting to get the bend off the cartridge you need. I recommend putting this piece on when the turbo is OFF the car



I think that’s about it! Here are all the parts you should need for the whole kit:


And here’s a very bad picture of what it will look like on your firewall once together, please ignore the other junction of tees, that was for vac lines. A green band holds up the tees you should be looking at. Note in the total rightmost position is the plug I was referring to, occupying the space of my future aftermarket oil pressure sender. The line comes in the bottom, and leave for the turbo on the left (this line not hooked up at time of picture)


Also, Here are some clamps that will aid in securing your new lines and even the tee on the firewall. Highlighted in yellow is the size for the braided hose, and the red can be used for securing the tee to firewall.


SheeshÂ… thanks for reading that, I hope it got up there ok! Any questions just IM meÂ…


Modified by B18EG6 at 7:23 PM 9/24/2003


Modified by B18EG6 at 11:39 PM 4/5/2004

 

Damn! YOUR ARE THE MAN! i was going to ask about those part #'s at mcmaster but you beat me too it. Those prices aren't bad at all, i acutally paid like 15 bucks for that bspt to npt addapter

 

Very excellent walk through. I did this 2 years ago on my Integra because the brass T broke off of my block because I used a heavy oil sensor. I had to drill the remainder left , that was broken off. After that, I mounted it up on the firewall so there would be slack on the line, thus no broken brass T's

 

here is mine. i hate how big the autometer sensor is. I just ran the line for the two sensors to the fire wall the turbo oil feed still comes off a Tee on the block. No leaks so far.

 

I thought you were not suposed to put thread lock/tape on AN fittings??
And also couldnt U use an BSPT (male) to AN (male) adapter on the block then run the line straight off that? Know that part #?? I cant find that ****?? I dont know if they call it&gt;&gt;AN-3 fitting or not??&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;Says something like JIC(Joint Industrial Council) fitting&gt;is that the same as&gt;AN??
GREAT RIGHT-UP

 

yeh i used the tape where i wasnt spose to there...

JIC does indeed have 37 degree fittings, so if you found the right one you could use it

does JIC 1/4 pipe mean 4/16 = 4an?

I got a 1/4 pipe JIC fitting here but my earls pieces are at home so i cant check

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
does JIC 1/4 pipe mean 4/16 = 4an?

I got a 1/4 pipe JIC fitting here but my earls pieces are at home so i cant check</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wish I knew
Let me know when you check those jic-earlsAN fittings

 

Jic ( joint industrial congress ) and AN (army-navy) are both 37 degree fittings. They should be compatible, but I've never tried. Let us know if you try it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AN (army-navy) </TD></TR></TABLE>
Never new that??

 

JIC comes in 37 degree and 45 degree flare.
AN, only comes in 37 degree flare.

All JIC and AN (45 or 37 deg flare) will works with one another except the -6AN and #6 JIC (45 degree flare) are not interchangable, don't ask me why, but I have played around all kinds of fittings on daily basis .

PS: if anyone needs those parts on the oil feed line, let me know. I stocked about hundreds of brass fittings at all time as well as all fittings and hoses.

stan

 

Pretty nice, i havent had a problem with my line being T'ed off the block but that firewall set up looks mighty nice! nice job seb.

-sander

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si2die4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought you were not suposed to put thread lock/tape on AN fittings??
</TD></TR></TABLE> yeah i thought the same thing, however will it hurt to have it on there as long as it is only on the threads not the flare

 

Thanks for the awesome write up! I'm ordering all the parts tomorrow werd

 

nice. i did mine fairly close. i found a blank hole on the bottom of the intake manifold and tapp'd it out and bolted the t-fitting under there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice. i did mine fairly close. i found a blank hole on the bottom of the intake manifold and tapp'd it out and bolted the t-fitting under there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good idea! I think ive seen one of those blank spots before!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the awesome write up! I'm ordering all the parts tomorrow werd</TD></TR></TABLE>

glad to see this is still helping people!

 

Hey, how long is the line off the T to the turbine for option 2? You didnt really specify, thanks!

 

48" from firewall to turbo inlet.

 

repect man...thanks for the write up!

 

This is a grea thread. Thanks. I was getting ready to start my own stuff too

 

I used the same stuff...

 

Hey guys JW, what parts numbers would i need if i wanted to construct a oil return line? Thanks

 

ask Flamenco-T, he sells high quality kits of goodrich lines

 

Great Write-up!!! Wish I had this yesterday!

 

nice to see this still up... if the pics ever go out of date again ill update it