turboant

ok everytime i drive my car, at watt it fills my oil catch can up with one pass. is there something that i can do to restrict the air flow so the catch can can stop filling up with one pass>?? thank you

turboant

oh and i have one of the XLARGE catch cans from ebay.

TypeSLO

how do you have your vac lines hooked up to the can?

platinum00

if your filling a large can up with one pass you have it hooked up wrong or mechanical problems

platinum.

Garage 808 Hatch

not necessarily, mine did the same, but only when i was racing, if it doesnt do it on the dyno, its not wrong, what it is, is when u launch, or have lateral acceleration, the oil sloshes to the back of the block, up the breather channels and into the fittings. flip a block over , with the oil pan off, look at where those fittings are, right where the oil would run up into.

turboant

this is the way i got it hooked up
and the red lines go to the back of the block




Modified by turboant at 6:34 PM 8/16/2006

turboant

can i put a restrictor in the pre turbo line to cut thr air flow bown our is that bad

Finland

maybe your drain is not at a downward slope?

turboant

what drain

onefstek

from the pic he provided, it looks like he has no drain.

drill a hole on the bottom of the catch can and route it back to the block.

you are getting too much blow by and thats why you are filling up a whole catch can in one pass.

turboant

ok thanks alot i will do that but where can i hook up a drain line to

turboant

o and should i leave the steel wool in our do i take it out

turboant

onefstek

take the steel wool out and run a "T" into one of your lines off the back of the block, and run the return into one of those.

that way it will drain when you idle or just normally dirve.

TurboEM1

iTrader: (1)

dont run a drain you will just contaminate your oil.

most likely you are creating so much vacuum from the slashcut you can suck the oil out of the block and into the can.

Take off the slashcut and run open breather.

Finland

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what drain</TD></TR></TABLE>

the drain that you need to keep your can from over flowing

onefstek

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont run a drain you will just contaminate your oil.

most likely you are creating so much vacuum from the slashcut you can suck the oil out of the block and into the can.

Take off the slashcut and run open breather. </TD></TR></TABLE>

how would you contaminate your oil??? its oil from your motor that goes in your catch can and its the same oil that goes back into the motor.

if that would have been the case, then why did honda make a catch tank that drains back into the engine.

Whiteintegra

all this catch can **** is redic. I still can't get a straigt answer on the correct catch can setup to run. Every ******* thread i read says something different. WTF M8?

mRek9R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Whiteintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all this catch can **** is redic. I still can't get a straigt answer on the correct catch can setup to run. Every ******* thread i read says something different. WTF M8?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i hear ya....i've been confused for quite some time now too...8)

quickcarl

Connect the lines to the rear of the block at the 2 large plugs in the oil drain backs (on B series blocks) and run the the hoses up and forward to the catch can. MOUNT the CATCH CAN to the FRONT of the engine bay and as HIGH as possible. This allows the oil to condense and drain back in the hoses, while allowing vaporized fuel and oil to travel to the catch can and condense. You do not want this to re-enter the motor! The better you can angle the hoses upward as they go around and forward the better it will work. Gravity (and G forces) will keep the oil from traveling to the can.

Finland

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quickcarl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">while allowing vaporized fuel and oil to travel to the catch can and condense. You do not want this to re-enter the motor! </TD></TR></TABLE>

This needs to be clarified. You don't want vapors in your catch can to condense and dilute the oil..however all stock honda motors pull the vapors into the intake and burn them off and run for 100s of thousands of miles.

Following this philosophy, I have a pcv valve on the top of my breather tank and pull the vapors back into the intake manifold where they are burned. I also have simulated the factory breathing system by connecting the valve cover breather into my turbo intake (with slash cut) to evacuate the crank case while in boost (and any time there's enough airflow to induce the bernoulli effect)

I've found this method to be highly functional and the car runs much better with crank case evacuation than without. I've tried the open method and ended up with poor ring seal and smoking - plus a ton of vapors coming out of the breather, which you could smell in the cabin.

I know there will be a ton of people that disagree for various reasons, but this is working great for me. The only other improvement I will probably make is to add another breather port on the valve cover because the stock one is a bit small, plus I'm running relatively large ring gaps to allow for expansion (running stock sleeves), so I'm probably getting more blowby than someone with tight ring gaps.

I think the only way this method would fail is
1.) if the drain on the breather tank is not on a downward slope, this is difficult to do (elevation of the can, etc.), however not impossible
2.) if there is so much blowby that no amount of venting will help it. In this case I would recommend trying the open breather method.

The bottom line is that there are many ways of achieving proper crank case evacuation, choose the one that works for your setup. Sometimes it's a matter of trial and error, not just bandwagoneering.

Whiteintegra

Mr.Helsinki, please post a diagram of your setup!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Finland

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Whiteintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mr.Helsinki, please post a diagram of your setup!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, here's a photo I took of my setup that caused problems. (smoking from tailpipe) I'll call it an OPEN SYSTEM

Here is my CLOSED system:

The Endyn kit comes with a rubber bushing you can put on top of the breather tank so you can run a pcv valve directly off there. I plumbed that right to the intake manifold stock pcv hose location. I also made a turbo intake tube last year that has a slashcut tube in it, I re-installed that and ran a hose from the valve cover port to the intake tube with a Home depot air/water separator ($14.95 IIRC) so I can keep an eye on accumulation..so far it's a couple of drops at best.

This setup is working for me, but I can't say if it will work for some 600whp monster..



I'll post pics of the new setup soon

Whiteintegra

im only looking for a RELIABLE 300whp daily drivin car. I really really don't want to buy that edne kit. I guess ill just hook up an ebay catch and mimic your edyine setup.

adictionbass

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Whiteintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im only looking for a RELIABLE 300whp daily drivin car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Whiteintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess ill just hook up an ebay....</TD></TR></TABLE>

\ thread