allsho

i did a search but what i am looking for is someone wiht a picture of where they put there oil bung.. for their oil return that is on there oil pan.. anyone wiht some imput would be greatly apreciated..

cilver sivic

Scroll through this post.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263795

JoePSI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cilver sivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Scroll through this post.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263795</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is a moroso OEM replacement pan, so it is the same dimensions as your OEM pans.

allsho

thanx alot you guys ur help was mutch apreciated..

silentdaredevil2

heres a picture of my setup

Schister66

There are a few things to keep in mind when tapping your return line....

1. Make sure that the return hole is above the level of oil in the pan if possible.
2. Be sure to only flow downward, dont loop it back up because as i'm sure you've learned by now in life, liquids dont flow uphill....
3. Properly seal it because those bastards leak...even if they're the weldless "no leak" kind....

HiProfile

Generally the higher the better, but realisticly it only has to be above the oil level (while running). You also want to put it in between 2 cylinders so you minimize oil sloshing towards it.

96vtecI4

and make sure you check for interference with the oil pan bolts, as well as obrstructions that may have force you to have your pan patched and re-welded. (yes one of the two happend to me)

silentdaredevil2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are a few things to keep in mind when tapping your return line....

1. Make sure that the return hole is above the level of oil in the pan if possible.
2. Be sure to only flow downward, dont loop it back up because as i'm sure you've learned by now in life, liquids dont flow uphill....
3. Properly seal it because those bastards leak...even if they're the weldless "no leak" kind....</TD></TR></TABLE>

All very good points. One question though, ive never tried it but i wonder if it works the same as draining a water bed. Once you get the fluid moving throughout the hose when draining it just keep coming no matter where you have the hose because of the momentum of the fluid. I'd be interested to see if these applys to oil drains for turbos.

90dxhmt

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silentdaredevil2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

All very good points. One question though, ive never tried it but i wonder if it works the same as draining a water bed. Once you get the fluid moving throughout the hose when draining it just keep coming no matter where you have the hose because of the momentum of the fluid. I'd be interested to see if these applys to oil drains for turbos. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really you dont have a ton of pressure behind it like you would with 50 gallons or whatever of water.

CivicVX94

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Generally the higher the better, but realisticly it only has to be above the oil level (while running). You also want to put it in between 2 cylinders so you minimize oil sloshing towards it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the new greddy kits put the oil return in place of the oil drain plug.
once an engine is running the oil pan is pretty much in vacuum, so there isn't any oil in it. wherever you put it it should be fine.
think about when you run your car for little bit, then turn it off and try to check the oil. there will either be none on the dipstick or very little b/c the oil is elsewhere in the engine and lines.


o and check out this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1942909