Hopefully this link works..copied and pasted from my iPhone, so idk if it will.

Anyway, rundown is my cousins stock b20vtec with an XS power turbo kit Aka eBay, 440 RCs, arp headstuds, stock exhaust, super tiny 2.5in downpipe, 555Rs (205/55/14), hitting boost cut around 7200-7300ish
Vs
TT 97 supra, exhaust, 555Rs-315s!!, 14psi boost(stock is?!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ea-0EZdk5M

 

dont think it works man.

 

has anyone tried the godspeed twin scrolls?im looking at boosting my dohc zc.its freshly rebuild.stock bottom end.i saw a super 60 twin scroll.thought that might be good for quick spool.

 

never tried one but most of the ones I looked up seemed to have a huge hot side on them which wouldn't be ideal for spool up.


on a side not Iv had my junker budget sohc running for a few weeks and Id like to leave some feed back on what I think of some of my parts.


the waste gate holds 6psi just fine no issues with creep what so ever. it is only a 1.5l spooling it though but I haven't had the w.g. fail on me and hit 40lbs of boost yet like so many people told me lol.

the bov is not noticeably audible. I think this is more due to the open d.p. part of the car though as I have the exact same bov on my tsi and it sounds great. I even ran a nice direct vac source to it but I still can't hear it I might try further adjusting it soon to see if that helps though.

the manifold is holding up great (had no doubt it would) its the cast iron t3/t4 d series mani. I am going to wrap it with header wrap when it comes and I have a turbo blanket on the way as well. when I build the bottom end Im going to port match the t3 turbo to the manifold to make sure there isn't anything causing it to flow weird. for the turbo Im running a ford Thunderbird turbo off a 86 manual trans car and I can't believe it doesn't smoke or anything lol, its in mint condition too it feels about the same as a normal ebay t3/t04e maybe a little laggier but idk cause it could just be the small displacement of the motor causing it to spool later. Ill update some more down the road if anything fails or is still working good.

 

how are the cx racing bov's? gonna order the cxracing intercooler and piping and still need a BOV. thought about just picking it up at the same time.

 

im glad you mentioned this becuse the majority of people believe you dont need a restrictor but you definately do ive seen my friend mess up 4 turbos and when i mentioned to him about a restictor that i learn from Garrett turbos website his turbo never started to smoke. on the garrett website it is written .065" restrictor for Journal Bearing turbos and including the ball bearing GT4088R, GT4094R, GT4294R, GT4202R and smaller ball bearing turbos need a .035" restrictor. just some food for thought.

 

I have the cx racing ssqv bov, and piping kit, I had to buy two, I got one for an integra, it didnt fit my crx, but the one from cx racing is awsome, nice thick bead rolled pipes that I tried to bend and couldnt, and they give you extra pipes for top mounts with lots of couplings, and diffferent setups... I also hava an "tsunamei" ramhorn, and while the primaries arent as big as say love fab, or the other high end manis, the welds look really nice and everything lined up perfectly for me, as for longevity... dont know, not my daily, and its only been on for a short time, but it came very nicely braced at the primaries, and ported. As for the small primary size... its a stupid argument, they wont restrict anything if their not smaller then the ports in the head, and the bigger they are, the more lag you get.... and for 145 bucks I paid for the mani, I took the 655bucks left from what I would have paid for a "good" mani, and bought myself a WELDER.... so when my "JUNK" mani falls appart, I can glue it back together...

My BOV works great, and as for one gentleman mentioning buying american... I would, if shops werent so willing to RAPE at every corner... seriously, if someone can make a mani for 145... is it that much more to make it here? **** I would have paid 300 for one from here, but when I offer that I get laughed at, so hey, Im happy with my "shitty" mani, and heres the kicker, american made Lincoln welder

 

ya I hear ya on shops charging a premium and then they are all butt hurt because everyone is a bunch of cheap asses and they put people down instead of changing their business to better suit our economy. Iv never ran a tubular ebay mani but I might order a evo 9 tube mani and mod it to fit my d16 if I can get a good deal on a evo 8 or evo 9 turbo. keep us updated on how the manifold works out for you as Iv seen some people rock them for a long time without any cracks or anything.

 

I understand your particular point of view, but what you may not be aware of is that many of those shops that do get butt-hurt (you young people crack me up with that term..hahaha) is that there are larger overhead costs that the "cheap ***" might not understand or be aware of when coming to a facility to get work done, or even ordering parts compared to internet vendors including property leases, power, standard tooling costs, fluids, etc.. All have to be paid for whether cheap-*** boy rolls in or a more liberal customer comes by. These have to be prepaid before any possible profits are even seen. Its not like many of us are poppin' bottles and going to the strip club with profits from the week over the weekend; many have mortgages, families, etc.. In some cases, its not worth the work effort for the cheap *** if they can't pay for the good work.

Its not about changing for the economic conditions of the customer. Shops will change for their survival, and sometimes, as much as they hate to do it, means saying "no" to the cheap *** in an effort to retain quality and a higher business level. Just my .02

 

After owning a performance shop myself, years ago, I couldn't have said it any better than this. The "cheap ***" customers were always the highest maintenance, time consuming, ungrateful, expect everything for nothing, problematic people to deal with. When the economy is bad, shop efficiency becomes very important to staying alive. Keeping cutomers is always important but "cheap ***" customers usually end up being detrimental to the shops over all success and ability to be competitive. Cutting them lose frees up more time for the customers who appreciate the good parts and service and understand why it's worth paying for it.

 

Good info... I wasnt aware of these and after a year and a half my turbo started to smoke pretty bad during warm up, looked like I just sea-foamed the car lol.

k24a1
ebay log mani(rev hard style)
ebay 60-1
tial wg
greddy bov/intercooler and piping
turbo xs mbc
2.5dp/exhaust
kpro
320whp 303wtq @ 14psi

That was a fun set up and it ran solid for about 2years untill I had to sell it

 

I can see what you guys mean about the cheap asses being bad business but Im not referring to people who buy services. more of people buying turbo parts and putting their own car together. and If I were to spend my money on a nice well built manifold I would want to make sure %100 that they wouldn't scam me or just take my money and disappear like Iv seen quite a few of the big companys do lately. I just can't believe people are doing that kind of crap its ridiculous.

 

I am considered a "cheap ***" due to what I buy because I cannot afford new name brand parts. Not trying to take anything away from the nicer shops but anything I can do myself I will and not look back! Too may people have been had and I don't trust anyone with my car. I would rather do the work myself, mess it up learning, and redo it than pay a shop to do the work. That is how some people gain knowledge and end up being more experienced than most employees of said shops. Plus there is nothing better than having someone complement your car and ask "Did you build it yourself?" and say yes!

 

Im with you except its not that I can't afford the nice parts its just Id rather have less money invested in the car so when I do decide to sell it or trade it or part it out I don't loose money. there is a big difference between not being able to buy things and not wanting to buy things of a certain price range. Id rather use that money to pay my house down as it will pay off much more down the road.

 

As long as your willing to adjust your expectations to be inline with what you're buying, then there's not much wrong with that.

I find people jump on bandwagons really quick when some company comes out with a "magical" new part and everyone starts throwin money at them and things go sideways and people get taken. I always go with the shops and people who've been around for a long time and are well established and respected. I research their customer service and if satisfied I buy from them and never have to worry about being taken. Stick with the people that are solid and have a good reputation and pay the few extra bucks to have the piece of mind, you won't be "taken".

 

I've seen 2 ebay turbo compressor housings split, they were glued together from the "factory". had a couple leak oil into the DP, even with just a -3an feed. had some after a few pulls start touching the comp housing

 

I blew my eBay turbo after a few months, I bought a resistor when I bought the kit. Received the resistor a month after I blew the turbo

lsvtec type r intake mani otherwise stock. 266 whp @ 8psi 8700rpm tq curve was nice and flat. stopped at 8700 because of stock valvetrain but it was still making power
uberdata tuned, 1000cc injectors

it was 57trim, 50 ar. Perfect spool, no spiking or creeping

when I turbo my car again, it's gonna be an eBay kit

 

Yeah, well to that I can say my friend has a shop, and just for a refference, my buddy was in the maket for downpipes in his s4... bought name brand they were 2k, he made them from 304 for 670 and pocketed half...I think the problem IS the shop getting greedy because we demand a luxury, not a necessity. And I'm right on board with lesser parts and depreciation... I got like 1500 in my kit, so far nothing wrong with it why blow 4k on a toy...? and I've gone to a reputable shop for services, actually The Shop in ct. They tuned my z, and I paid what he asked, when they couldn't raise the boost I said it was fine and went home. Lowe and behold when I hit the boost limiter on the hwy... then put even more $$$ into a laptop and hookups to find out only half the map was tuned because the resoltion was set for 20psi when I told him no more then 12 will be run. There's more to the story, and turbo kit mods I had to do since, but getting back to the point of getting screwed, I wasn't happy, the tune was rough, I paid and didn't complain, and got f ed for it. So the last thing I wanna hear is a lecture on overhead.

And as a point count the cars in this thread, most are running ebay stuff with success, even my garrett smokes oil at startup and its new, now it has a restrictor, all it boils down to is assembling your own kit or making it fit, if you don't have the means to do so, don't touch the car and later cry about it, my ebay Parts leftbudget for repairs, and anyone venturing into forced induction should be aware that things don't always go the way you want. Sorry to rant but this subject hits a nerver.... same as 900 dollar intercoolers that produce no more dyno numbers the 100$ ones. Incidentally, also the first thing to get destroyed when the glory moment turns into a sorry moment, and I've wintnessed this countless times over! (Forgive mistakes this was typed on a cellphone )

 

Go on ebay, don't have to mod one, they sell them ready for dsm turbos in the miniram style. I had to put a T4 flange on mine cuss very few come that way. And there's a very big difference between being realistic about your goals for a car, and just being a sucker and gettin taken. I rather enjoy my welder, and mani.

 

Hmmmm Im gonna try out a ebay turbo only! I have Tial wastegate, Greddy bov, and precision intercooler and MB racing manifold...what turbo should i look into?? im looking to make 500+whp!

 

thats what the paypal claims are for lol. Iv never seen one glue together but If I did I would have to hit up the seller I got it from like wtf?

 

non of them. if you want to make real power like 500+ then ebay turbos aren't really the place to go. they are great for low hp builds like 300 range but once you go to 500 you need a efficient turbo that will actually make that kind of power.

 

I see what you are saying! This car will only be driven for track events, So i was thinking ebay turbos would be fine....I also heard of people buying ebay turbos and having them rebuilt with garnett internals... Have you heard about this also?

 

^^^ godspeed gt35r comes to mind.

 

that, and what they dubbed the t70...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GODSP...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GODSP...Q5fAccessories

little bigger, I dunno about ebay turbos not being able to perform, compressor size is compressor size... I guess id be weary pushing 40psi... but hondas arent evos, so for boltons youre prolly straight. even comes with a warantee hehehe so if it grenades your motor, atleast you get another fresh turbo right...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GODZI...Q5fAccessories

decent manifold
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/b16-b...Q5fAccessories

Another one I shoulda gotten, both for t3 and t4 turbos, and now not polished so the haters cant whine about the shine
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTEG...Q5fAccessories

Piping kit im running, fits great, and it comes with a couple extra pipes in different lenghts for different setups, BOV works fine aswell
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-00...Q5fAccessories

This is a kit that wont fit a crx, I bought it first, it still nice, and got it to work with a 90degree elbow, but it was kinda low to the ground so I got the etd kit. and when they say weak walled, or crappy finish... I tried bending them by standing on one end... they dont bend... if you heat em they might, but nothing cheap about them except for the price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-93...Q5fAccessories