OBD2-OBD1 questions
#1
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OBD2-OBD1 questions
I'm new to hondas but I plan on turboing my GSR and having it tuned with neptune. I know I need to get an OBD1 ecu, but what is the best one to get. Does anyone have a breakdown as to what is the best to get, I've heard P72 or P28. P72 is really expensive, I know it offers IAB and knock sensor support, but is that all?
Also, is there anything else I need to change? I've heard I need to change the distributor, but wasn't sure.
Thanks.
Also, is there anything else I need to change? I've heard I need to change the distributor, but wasn't sure.
Thanks.
#3
Re: OBD2-OBD1 questions (nebulight)
Give us a little more info.
Basically, if you want to convert to OBD1 you need a conversion harness and and ECU. The ECU depends on your motor and what you need.
If you have a B16 or LS/V and dont need IAB or Knock, just get any P28 or Converted Non-Vtec (p28 equivalent).
If you need knock, then you must get one with knock...any P30, P61 or P72 ECU will work fine.
If you need both knock and IAB, you need a P72
If you only need IAB and no knock, any converted P28 will work with the extra components for IAB control
Thats a basic summary...let me know if you need help with any of that!
Basically, if you want to convert to OBD1 you need a conversion harness and and ECU. The ECU depends on your motor and what you need.
If you have a B16 or LS/V and dont need IAB or Knock, just get any P28 or Converted Non-Vtec (p28 equivalent).
If you need knock, then you must get one with knock...any P30, P61 or P72 ECU will work fine.
If you need both knock and IAB, you need a P72
If you only need IAB and no knock, any converted P28 will work with the extra components for IAB control
Thats a basic summary...let me know if you need help with any of that!
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: OBD2-OBD1 questions (xenocron)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Give us a little more info.
Basically, if you want to convert to OBD1 you need a conversion harness and and ECU. The ECU depends on your motor and what you need.
If you have a B16 or LS/V and dont need IAB or Knock, just get any P28 or Converted Non-Vtec (p28 equivalent).
If you need knock, then you must get one with knock...any P30, P61 or P72 ECU will work fine.
If you need both knock and IAB, you need a P72
If you only need IAB and no knock, any converted P28 will work with the extra components for IAB control
Thats a basic summary...let me know if you need help with any of that! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Xenocron FTW
Basically, if you want to convert to OBD1 you need a conversion harness and and ECU. The ECU depends on your motor and what you need.
If you have a B16 or LS/V and dont need IAB or Knock, just get any P28 or Converted Non-Vtec (p28 equivalent).
If you need knock, then you must get one with knock...any P30, P61 or P72 ECU will work fine.
If you need both knock and IAB, you need a P72
If you only need IAB and no knock, any converted P28 will work with the extra components for IAB control
Thats a basic summary...let me know if you need help with any of that! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Xenocron FTW
#5
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Re: OBD2-OBD1 questions (xenocron)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Give us a little more info.
Basically, if you want to convert to OBD1 you need a conversion harness and and ECU. The ECU depends on your motor and what you need.
If you have a B16 or LS/V and dont need IAB or Knock, just get any P28 or Converted Non-Vtec (p28 equivalent).
If you need knock, then you must get one with knock...any P30, P61 or P72 ECU will work fine.
If you need both knock and IAB, you need a P72
If you only need IAB and no knock, any converted P28 will work with the extra components for IAB control
Thats a basic summary...let me know if you need help with any of that! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I have a 98 Integra GSR, the turbo setup that I'm going to have is in my sig. I would assume since I'm going with a turbo it would be best to keep knock sensor support.
I'm not really sure what the deal is with IAB, since I'm new to honda. I don't even know what that stands for, but is that the thing on OBD2 GSRs that when you get to 5900ish rpm that opens up to give more air to the motor? But I would think that would be restrictive to the motor in a turbo application. I really need a FAQ about Vtec, lol.
I also heard that some ecus offer more outputs to control things with neptune than others.
Basically, if you want to convert to OBD1 you need a conversion harness and and ECU. The ECU depends on your motor and what you need.
If you have a B16 or LS/V and dont need IAB or Knock, just get any P28 or Converted Non-Vtec (p28 equivalent).
If you need knock, then you must get one with knock...any P30, P61 or P72 ECU will work fine.
If you need both knock and IAB, you need a P72
If you only need IAB and no knock, any converted P28 will work with the extra components for IAB control
Thats a basic summary...let me know if you need help with any of that! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I have a 98 Integra GSR, the turbo setup that I'm going to have is in my sig. I would assume since I'm going with a turbo it would be best to keep knock sensor support.
I'm not really sure what the deal is with IAB, since I'm new to honda. I don't even know what that stands for, but is that the thing on OBD2 GSRs that when you get to 5900ish rpm that opens up to give more air to the motor? But I would think that would be restrictive to the motor in a turbo application. I really need a FAQ about Vtec, lol.
I also heard that some ecus offer more outputs to control things with neptune than others.
#6
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Re: OBD2-OBD1 questions (nebulight)
Considering you are going to be running a victor x intake manifold, you do not need a p72.
Ontop of what xenocron said, educate your self via http://phearable.net/tech/efibeginnerguide.html
Ontop of what xenocron said, educate your self via http://phearable.net/tech/efibeginnerguide.html
#7
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Re: OBD2-OBD1 questions (nebulight)
if you are sticking with the stock intake manifold, and wish to use the variable runner, then you need a p72. if you arent worried about that or knock sensor, a p28 will be fine. if you arent worried about the iab but want the knock, look for a p30.
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#8
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Re: OBD2-OBD1 questions (mtber)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Considering you are going to be running a victor x intake manifold, you do not need a p72.
Ontop of what xenocron said, educate your self via http://phearable.net/tech/efibeginnerguide.html
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I get all that stuff, but what I don't understand is the honda specific stuff, such as IAB, what ecus offer what, I got the basic idea on ecus, I think I will need a P30 if I want to keep knock.
Also, is there ANYTHING else I need to change on the car, any sensors or possibly a distributor
Ontop of what xenocron said, educate your self via http://phearable.net/tech/efibeginnerguide.html
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I get all that stuff, but what I don't understand is the honda specific stuff, such as IAB, what ecus offer what, I got the basic idea on ecus, I think I will need a P30 if I want to keep knock.
Also, is there ANYTHING else I need to change on the car, any sensors or possibly a distributor
#9
Re: OBD2-OBD1 questions (nebulight)
If you are running the Victor X, there are no IABs on that intake manifold so nothing can be closed or restrictive.
If you are running a stock IM, and you disconnect the IABs...they will be stuck open...with boost it is my belief that you wont see a whole lot, if any gains running and activating the IABs as you would in an NA application.
Knock is an OK function to have...but above 4000 rpms, the extra noise the stock knock sensor sees/hears usually isnt anything worth seeing/hearing it is so noisy in a car revving 8k plus.
You retain all of your stock main Honda sensors (IAT, ECT, CYP, CKP, TPS, MAP...etc)
If you are running Neptune, and you NEED the availability of extra outputs...the P72 is definitely the way to go.
In my mind, a stock P28 or converted equivalent is what most people go with...unless you need those added outputs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nebulight »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I get all that stuff, but what I don't understand is the honda specific stuff, such as IAB, what ecus offer what, I got the basic idea on ecus, I think I will need a P30 if I want to keep knock.
Also, is there ANYTHING else I need to change on the car, any sensors or possibly a distributor</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you are running a stock IM, and you disconnect the IABs...they will be stuck open...with boost it is my belief that you wont see a whole lot, if any gains running and activating the IABs as you would in an NA application.
Knock is an OK function to have...but above 4000 rpms, the extra noise the stock knock sensor sees/hears usually isnt anything worth seeing/hearing it is so noisy in a car revving 8k plus.
You retain all of your stock main Honda sensors (IAT, ECT, CYP, CKP, TPS, MAP...etc)
If you are running Neptune, and you NEED the availability of extra outputs...the P72 is definitely the way to go.
In my mind, a stock P28 or converted equivalent is what most people go with...unless you need those added outputs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nebulight »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I get all that stuff, but what I don't understand is the honda specific stuff, such as IAB, what ecus offer what, I got the basic idea on ecus, I think I will need a P30 if I want to keep knock.
Also, is there ANYTHING else I need to change on the car, any sensors or possibly a distributor</TD></TR></TABLE>
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