O2 simulator ???
I was wondering if there is any interest in building an o2 simulator, so there's no need for the 2nd o2 sensor in obd2 vehicles, getting rid of the check engine lights...
i am going to built a few, tweak them, and see how well they work, any beta tester's? I'll build say 5 of them and mail them to you for free, and all the tester has to do is post their opinion(s). Those with factory ecu, o2 sensor problems(CEL), or those with o2 removed only please, obviously.
Those interested post email.
i am going to built a few, tweak them, and see how well they work, any beta tester's? I'll build say 5 of them and mail them to you for free, and all the tester has to do is post their opinion(s). Those with factory ecu, o2 sensor problems(CEL), or those with o2 removed only please, obviously.
Those interested post email.
The design you have listed would cost $10 parts alone, not including labor and other things like solder, wires, and labor. I wish i could say it would work, save me a load of time too, but that basic design will not work for a mustang obd2 vehicle much less a honda for long. Try driving for a week w/o resetting the ecu. Keeping the o2 sensor on the vehicle will not produce a CEL immediately, but will over time produce erroneous output(CEL). In anycase, rather than pulling out the entire o2 harness, i am proposing a design that is plug and play by just tapping into existing ecu harness wires(plug and play, no soldering, etc...) inside the vehicle, NOT exposed to the elements. Plus it's assembled and is completely free. If there is a demand and assuming it works perfectly then i may think about making them, but it's all up to how much parts cost and how much time it takes to make them. I am only making this offer to this board because people here are much more intelligent than those on other sites and installing it requires knowledge of differentiating between the color coded ecu wires.
Not trying to burst your bubble, but Zip has already created an o2 sim. It's not plug and play but if I recall correctly, requires you tap 3-4 wires and cut one. I have had it on my car for about 2 months now (shift linkage bumping into the o2 sensor will eventually cause problems
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The design you have listed would cost $10 parts alone, not including labor and other things like solder, wires, and labor. I wish i could say it would work, save me a load of time too, but that basic design will not work for a mustang obd2 vehicle much less a honda for long. Try driving for a week w/o resetting the ecu. Keeping the o2 sensor on the vehicle will not produce a CEL immediately, but will over time produce erroneous output(CEL). In anycase, rather than pulling out the entire o2 harness, i am proposing a design that is plug and play by just tapping into existing ecu harness wires(plug and play, no soldering, etc...) inside the vehicle, NOT exposed to the elements. Plus it's assembled and is completely free. If there is a demand and assuming it works perfectly then i may think about making them, but it's all up to how much parts cost and how much time it takes to make them. I am only making this offer to this board because people here are much more intelligent than those on other sites and installing it requires knowledge of differentiating between the color coded ecu wires.
Its been working for 8 months now. I know you didnt think of it, but maybe theres more than one solution.
The O2 sensor is a hell of alot easier to get to than the ecu (you can remove the entire sensor and then reinstall, cant do that with the factory ecu harness).
I dont think there is anything thats "plug and play" with forced induction....keep dreaming.
[Modified by niedejb, 10:57 AM 4/7/2002]
There are no other solutions but to simulate the output of the o2 sensor under normal operating conditions or a CEL will result. The design above simply will not work. By replacing the o2 sensor entirely, it is truly "plug and play" and there is no need to remove the ecu or even the harness.
I've done it and CEL since I've had the high flow cat.
How on earth can you tell me it doesn't work when I've had it this way for 8 months. Pretty ballsy.
Let me know what else I cant do or wont work, I'm anxious to find out.
How on earth can you tell me it doesn't work when I've had it this way for 8 months. Pretty ballsy.
Let me know what else I cant do or wont work, I'm anxious to find out.
Anyone else is free to try, but simply putting a resistor inline with the sensor signal and a capacitor parallel to the sensor and heater wires will do nothing. If anyone has zip's design please post it, but there is no way this design works. I suspect there is something wrong with your MIL indicator and should be checked out with a obd2 scanner.
Also, according to the pictures on your site. You used the wrong capacitor plus got the wires mixed up. I was referring to the design you have on your site in an earlier post.
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