Hello everyone. I have a 2000 Accord, with a built F23, which has a P28 with Hondata S300 installed. I am not a tuner, but after a few years of the car being down due to a cracked cylinder wall, I have recently got it running again with a new built block. The car was previously tuned and it runs fine now, but is not making boost. I have checked all the lines, charge piping, etc. and also checked my previously installed boost controller and everything appears to be normal. Once getting it running again only a few weeks ago, I was getting a P0335 code (crankshaft position sensor circuit fault) which was throwing the car into limp mode, as the RPM's would cut off at 3500. After replacing the sensor to no avail, and after extensive research I found the problem to be a KSTuned balance shaft delete kit which I used the supplied aluminum spacer in place of the balance shaft pulley. I removed the spacer today and installed a stock pulley and the CEL is gone and the car is no longer in limp mode. It's not however making any boost. At idle, according to my AEM boost gauge, it's pulling 22-24 lbs of vacuum, however as soon as there's a load it stops at 0 and does not build boost. My question is, does anyone think this is a software issue with Hondata? Or does one think it's a mechanical issue that I could resolve? Possibly seeing as the CEL kicked the ECU into limp mode, would that affect the tune and software settings? Again I'm not familiar with the software personally, just looking for some direction. I have an appt with my tuner here in NH shortly to get a fresh and updated tune, just trying to get it to at least get the turbo building boost before I drop it off as it's one less thing he'll have to address. Any advice would be helpful.

 

You need to do a boost leak test. Search on how to do that. Also take your wastegate apart and verify the diapharm isnt ripped, screws for it backed out, and fire ring intact.

 

Is the turbo/compressor wheel spinning at idle ?

 

Yes, the turbo is spinning, freely, and increases its speed upon revving the engine manually at the throttle body.

 

If the turbo is fine, then you have a boost leak. There is a small chance that you have a bad MAP sensor, but this would mean that the car would run extremely lean under WOT because you are actually making boost BUT the tune cannot see it.

 

If it gets to 0 and does not make boost…it’s definitely a leak. If it tries to make boost but bogs and jerks…it’s your settings in parameters…ignition or fuel cut

 

Is the fire ring installed in your wastegate?

 

 

My bad I missed that.