No Spark
Recently installed pistons, rods and put back the engine together. My shop told me that they can not get a spark. Any ideas? F@cken Idiots had my car for six months!! I am so pissed off!! Sorry, had to vent. Anyways, any ideas? Thanks. Second gen B16, Revhard Turbo, 9:1 srp, eagle rods
More than likely the distributor/ingnitor if your not getting spark and haven't changed any other electrical componets in your setup recently. Try swapping a similar distributor for easier diagnosis.
Unfortunately, it is the same shop. They took apart my engine, sent the block out to get the boring, balancing and installation or rods, pistons and when they put it back together, theyre saying that there is no spark!! wtf!!!
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Okay, so they have checked all the grounds, checked the distributor and all readings were okay. When I had the swap done last year, the distributor cap and ignition rotor was replaced. Still have no idea why it has no spark!! I'm beginning to wish that I did not get into this!! Problem after problem, whether vandalism, mechanical, police. Anyways, any ideas, please!! Any ideas and thoughts are greatly appreciated.
they did make sure the grounds were bare right? metal on metal and not metal on paint? fuses?? using the correct harness??
hell, if it comes down to it just run a switched wire straight from the battery to the positive on the coil and crank the bitch that way....
at least then you'll be able to drive it to a mechanic that knows what his ******* looks like
hell, if it comes down to it just run a switched wire straight from the battery to the positive on the coil and crank the bitch that way....
at least then you'll be able to drive it to a mechanic that knows what his ******* looks like
if they can't figure it out, tell them to have it towed to a real repair shop or dealer.
Here's what they need to do if they have no clue.
Make sure the car has power.
Make sure it's grounded.
Test the alternator.
While attempting to turn the car over, check for signal coming from the ecu to the ignitor (ICM) then bring the ignitor to the dealer or some place with a bench test machine (the test in the manual is crap) do the same with the coil. If all this is good and the cap and rotor are new, replace the plugs and wires.
I believe that will cover most everything.
::EDIT::
I had the same problem last year, but when I tested the coil/ignitor as it says in the manual, the coil was good and the ignitor bad. too bad it was completely the opposite
Here's what they need to do if they have no clue.
Make sure the car has power.
Make sure it's grounded.
Test the alternator.
While attempting to turn the car over, check for signal coming from the ecu to the ignitor (ICM) then bring the ignitor to the dealer or some place with a bench test machine (the test in the manual is crap) do the same with the coil. If all this is good and the cap and rotor are new, replace the plugs and wires.
I believe that will cover most everything.
::EDIT::
I had the same problem last year, but when I tested the coil/ignitor as it says in the manual, the coil was good and the ignitor bad. too bad it was completely the opposite
just for the hell of it, my buddy switched the distributors (from a 95 si) and my car started. weird, the readings on the other distributor said it was fine
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GITWIDIT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Try swapping a similar distributor for easier diagnosis.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Weird huh?
Weird huh?
Yes, you did mention that!! Thanks alot. On another note, are there any usdm distributors that would just bolt on a jdm second gen b16? I heard there were fitting issues. I read somewhere that a fifth gen si distributor would just bolt on a second gen jdm b16. Can anyone verify this? Thanks!!
Modified by Autobot_Killer at 4:22 PM 7/13/2003
Modified by Autobot_Killer at 4:22 PM 7/13/2003
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