I have a 99 civic ex boosted d16y8 stock internals. Ebay turbo...broke people problems lmao on 10 psi

But my question is, is it normal when theres no power under load hitting boost when the car isnt fully warmed up? The turbo spools up to 10 psi i have a boost gauge and all i here is the waste gate opening up n its louder then when it opens up warm. Its weird, im just curious if anyone else had that problem. Other than that it runs perfectly fine when its warmed up

 

What engine management?
What turbo?

 

Emusa turbo t3/t4
Crome free

 

You never want to try and drive the car hard without being at operating temperature. That just causes more problems from crankcase pressure, oil starvation to key engine components, and other issues. Before using full throttle, make sure that the engine is at operating temperature.

There's no turbo, or engine management fixes for this. Be patient, plan your day ahead if it means you have to start the car a little early before leaving.

This is basic automotive petrol engine 101 stuff.

 

Ignition compensations for ect temps come to mind

 

What your saying makes completely sense, i just dont know what that is, im guessing its done in the tune? I still have to take it to get it professionally tuned on a dyno. And i know about not driving untill the car warms up cuz the oil has to fully circulate through the motor, (mechanic for a few years) just new to the boosted scene as of this month i just installed the turbo. So it ISNT normal to have no power under heavy throttle when the wastegate opens while still cold?

 

Compensation table with tip-inn enrichment for partial throttle or not..

It's more normal than you think. Even factory turbo cars have trouble driving that way.

Let it warm up, get it professionally tuned.. Then report back

 

 

Alrighty... Have it YOUR way. (I never did know who this chick is you post up as a meme so often. Reminds me of my neighbor's daughter. What a ****, she is..)

Either way OP.. You've got two opinions... Pick your best, and good luck to you.

 

I'm with TheShodan on this one.

Beating on the engine before reaching operating temperature is asking for bigger problems than not having any power. Hell, I don't even recommend high operating load until oil is up to operating temperature, which is more important than coolant temperature.

Shodan, that's Jennifer Lawrence.

 

Thanks D-Rob.. Dyed doesn't look like her to me for some strange reason.. Ah,well..

 

Game. Set. Match.

Get the car tuned. And Crome Free sucks so I dont expect it to run a car properly at times. When I was on it way back in the day, when the tune would switch from cold to warm the engine would shutter and stall. Could not figure it out for the life of me.

 

x2. I had the same annoying issue. Just driving down the freeway and the car would start to bog and stutter....good ol' Free EMS problems.

 

Ding ding ding...

Oil temperaure is much more important than coolant temperature and oil takes quite some time to reach a "satisfactory" operating temperature. Any kind of high load driving on cold oil is the worst thing you can do next to free revving a cold engine. You're just asking for accelerated wear and premature engine failure. This is compounded by the fact you're untuned on a basemap. Beating on an engine running a basemap is by far the dumbest thing anyone can do, compounding this is doing it on a cold engine.


Like D-Rob I was always taught to take it easy on a cold engine... Don't go above a certain rpm level or over a certain amount of load/throttle input until the oil comes up to temp. Thankfully the standalone I'm using has multiple protection/fail safe strategies and allows me to set an rpm/load limit based on oil temperature and/or coolant temperature so it becomes impossible to operate the engine in a damaging manner when it's cold. It even offers protection/fail safes based on oil temperature.

It's too bad Honda based tuning systems can't offer similar protection.

 

Driver mod yo, plus I was considering upgrading to wireless start in the future. It's too bad we have to rev higher just to get the car moving, you keep it under what, 3k while warming up? I usually warm it for a min or a couple then keep it in the 2000s if I can

 

Appreciate all the input guys, since that happend to me i never go into the boost range untill its up to operating temp. I work down the street so taking the short 1/4 mile down the road is already bad for me every morning so i warm my car up for 10 min then head out and still stay under about 3k rpm. But i will get it tuned probably after New years, still waiting on little things like tires and debating on getting the daemon rtp first and then another week to get the neptune software license. Any input on Neptune??

 

It's solid, probably best rtp for the money. I'm still getting used to it myself, but I like it.
Probably don't need to let it warm for 10mins once tuned, that's a bit excessive imo but it does help

 

Even idling for 10 minutes won't bring oil temps up to operating range, especially if it's cold outside.