LSsteinEG

Ive been thinking on getting a single fogger kit. I want to run a 150 shot on forged pistons and rods with stock sleeves. Now ive been searching on distribution factors with this kit and im getting mixed reviews. Some ppl are saying the closer to the throttle body is better and some are saying 18 inches from the throttle body. Which one is it? Also do I really need to take back timing? I was thinking that it would be okay at stock timing and ignition.. just run a bigger fuel jet for the 150 so its a little bit richer. Also I havent really considered direct port just cause its very hard to hide so im 99% sure im going with the single fogger. Thanks

LSsteinEG

bump

ALL IMPORT

go with the 150 without retarding the timing & tell me how it works out. alot of people in here say u dont need to but u will be my proof u need to do so.

vwhonda2gether

ALL IMPORT i seen that post and they where talking about a 50 shot not 150 you know what would happen to his engine if he tried that on stock timming. for the guy that made the post if you are going to run that big of a shot go direct port and just not pop your hood. also cubish i think thats his sn and 1700andropping on here know alot about nitrous just search on nitrous and you will find alot of post.

chris

LSsteinEG

sounds good.. hopefully I can get them to answer my question directly

R@mon

first of all, 150 shot of n20 is plenty of juice to warant some sort of timing being pulled unless you plan on running some rediculous octane to compensate, second, i know you said you want to have it hidden, but that makes no since for two reasons. !. 150 shot through one fogger is going to have **** for even distrubution, and could possibly cause you to hurt the motor, and 2. every one is going to be able to notice your on the bottle anyway once the 150extra hp kicks in.

LSsteinEG

i really dont want to do direct port. since you said 150 is too much for a single fogger, then how much would you run max?

1700anddroping

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go with the 150 without retarding the timing & tell me how it works out. alot of people in here say u dont need to but u will be my proof u need to do so.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you obiviously want to start something here.ok here is my advice to you don't.
let's work together and help this guy.

1700anddroping

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vwhonda2gether &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ALL IMPORT i seen that post and they where talking about a 50 shot not 150 you know what would happen to his engine if he tried that on stock timming. for the guy that made the post if you are going to run that big of a shot go direct port and just not pop your hood. also cubish i think thats his sn and 1700andropping on here know alot about nitrous just search on nitrous and you will find alot of post.

chris</TD></TR></TABLE>


thank you and appreciated

1700anddroping

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R@mon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first of all, 150 shot of n20 is plenty of juice to warant some sort of timing being pulled unless you plan on running some rediculous octane to compensate, second, i know you said you want to have it hidden, but that makes no since for two reasons. !. 150 shot through one fogger is going to have **** for even distrubution, and could possibly cause you to hurt the motor, and 2. every one is going to be able to notice your on the bottle anyway once the 150extra hp kicks in. </TD></TR></TABLE>


very well put ramon. that is something you have to dial in which
i know you know..."timing"

1700anddroping

i have spraid as much as 185 on a single fogger..but you have to raise the fuel pressure so much so that no.4 does not go lean.

now to answer your question about how far to place the nozzel.i have tried everything.but this is what i have found that works really well.place the nozzel about 6-10" from the throttle body.it will atomize alot better than say right at the throttle body.the more you can atomize the more fuel you can dump in which is what makes the power.

as far as hiding it.doing it just don't make sense to me.if you race and you pop your hood and they see it "if there scared just tell'em to say so " and that's that.
a race is brought what you brun and hope you brun enought.

most of the people that say nitrous is dangerous"well sure it is if you don't know what your doing w/it.


now about the timing: when you pull timing you take away power.it may not be noticeable but you lose.now we have fuel"the more you can atomize the fuel" the more power your going to make.all nitrous does is when released from it's counter parts it puts more air into any given engine.when that happens you need more fuel
key word here fella's" because that is what makes the power.


so if we know that the fuel makes the power and keeps the engine happy we have won half of the battle.you want to get as close as you possibbly can to "PEAK CYLINDER PRESSURE" that is what really makes the motor come alive.but when you are playing w/this your motor will build extreme heat and the pressure from this will set off the mixture"dedination" and no.1 engine killer.

so we use the fuel to keep the temps in check.when you start w/a big shot pull as much timing as you want out"so that it makes you feel safe so to speak" then start dialing her in.i like for my plugs to read like a n/a motor"w/a light brown fuel ring"
when i reach this i will advance timing just a little and look at ALL my plugs again.if i see pepper "little black specs" which are signs of deaddy add just a little more fuel"you keep doing this till the engine does not react anymore.this means you are gonna get the most for your buck w/the shot specified.


which one do you think would hit harder i like to call it "SEMI".but for people that do not know it is called bottle pressure.when i spraid that 400 @1350 bp.it felt like i was sitting in the middle of the interstate "dead stopped" then a semi hitting me in the *** going a 100."there is no other feeling" cube knows what i am talking about.

i did leave out one thing tho.fuel pressure this has to stay constant or your motor will go lean and guess what happens"you don't win the race".if your still confused.say you are spraying 150 and you have done everything i told you to do,except one thing .which is fuel pressure it has to remain constant for the hp you
are going to use.

example:


you have fp set at 45,but when you spray it drops to 38 or even lower...your motor is going bye bye maybe on the first round or you may get lucky and get another chance"if it does give you another chance you better learn from it unless your pockets run deep"

now say you have the fuel system set up like it is suppose to be.you are running the same 150 w/say 45 fp.when you spray that needle does not drop...WATCH THE MAGIC UNFOLD.


nitrous is so fun and addictive as hell,but you can make your motor do amazing things.

harv-

LSsteinEG

Very Informative Just a couple of more questions from the information you provided me. Why not anything farther than 10" since more length will probably give it more time to atomize? As for timing, is there a ignition system you would recommend that could take timing back when it sees nitrous? I will be running uberdata and I dont think there is any type of nitrous control option on it just yet and I want to run full timing when im off the bottle so what are my options? Also, what would cause the fuel pressure not to be constant and drop? Other than that, everything seems to be clear. Thanks for your help man

R@mon

any of the higher end msd's will allow you to pull timing, however one of the cheaper units is the msd digital 6 , it has a timing reatrd and a 2 step built in.

ALL IMPORT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1700anddroping &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you obiviously want to start something here.ok here is my advice to you don't.
let's work together and help this guy. </TD></TR></TABLE>


ok first of all if u read what i typed it was very sarcastic.
second i would never tell spmeone to do so. i only stated that cause he said he was thinking of doing so. if someone he knows told him to do it like that they aint no friend.
aslo i have seen manny 50shots pop with no timing out & no pump upgrades.

and yes 1700 told u the best way to go. happy

1700anddroping

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


ok first of all if u read what i typed it was very sarcastic.
second i would never tell spmeone to do so. i only stated that cause he said he was thinking of doing so. if someone he knows told him to do it like that they aint no friend.
aslo i have seen manny 50shots pop with no timing out & no pump upgrades.

and yes 1700 told u the best way to go. happy



</TD></TR></TABLE>


you must have had a bad day or something buddy.i am no nitrous guru by any means.i still am learning and will always be.the old saying goes.

NITROUS DOESN'T BLOW A MOTOR UP THE TUNER DOES.

and yes a 50 will pop one just like a 400 one will just the nitrous a/r's are different

ALL IMPORT

so why tell the other guy not to retard timing.
thus inducing the risk of detination

1700anddroping

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL IMPORT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so why tell the other guy not to retard timing.
thus inducing the risk of detination</TD></TR></TABLE>


once you understand what the fuel can do,you will see why untill then
you will always be in the dark.

i simply said that a 50 can pop one just like a 400 can,if the fuel is not there
you know what's gonna happen.

sloweredcivic

i would do direct port just mount the nozzles in the bottom of the manifold and put the solenoinds down there

nx h22

i would go direct port just for that fact that then you know that your getthing the same amounts to each cylinder thats what i did on my 100 shot it works kick ***

1700anddroping

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nx h22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would go direct port just for that fact that then you know that your getthing the same amounts to each cylinder thats what i did on my 100 shot it works kick *** </TD></TR></TABLE>

makes a world of difference does it not...

sloweredcivic

have you dyno'ed your 100 shot if so how much more horse and torque do you make? i am in the debate of built motor with two stages of nitrous or going boost

1700anddroping

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sloweredcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you dyno'ed your 100 shot if so how much more horse and torque do you make? i am in the debate of built motor with two stages of nitrous or going boost</TD></TR></TABLE>


****? do both i am....just do a search and see the set up.do you have any
pics of your set up.