wreckeddc4

So I'm building a new motor. It was originally going to be a simple stock piston NA motor but now I want to spray nitrous. I'm new to the whole nitrous thing, I've been reading the nitrous posts all week and still have some of my own questions

It's a ls/vtec
Eagle rods wiseco flat tops
GSR head milled .010
Flat valves
Comp around 11:1

Its on s300 e85 for fuel and use id1000 injectors.
Ive been advised by my tuner (Chris @ Xenocron) to look into a dry direct port shot around 150 worth of nitrous. And have it mostly controlled by the ecu.

My questions are:
What nozzles should I look into?
What jets would work good?(size)
Purge or not to purge? Best way to set one up?
And the best way to configure this?

I'm thinking this...
Bottle- solenoid- splitter- 4 individual nozzles on manifold.
am I missing anything there?

methodz55

Goto nitrous posts has everything u need to know I learned a lot from there now my new set up is very potent and reliable cosistant

wreckeddc4

Ok thanks.
I looked over many of the nitrous threads.

I'm still unsure what jets/nozzles I should pick up.

I believe I have everythig else figured out.

Gonna pick up a nos cheater solenoid rated for a 200 shot.

Run a T before the solenoid to run a small purge solenoid.

Run a "y" fitting with 4 outlets after the solenoid to my 4 nozzles.

Setup an arming switch to my ecu, then a relay after the ecu triggered by the nitrous output on s300, and that relay output to the solenoid.

Is that mostly it? I still feel like I'm missing a few things.

creationz

For a purge you want to have it as close to the jets as possible. Also the purge valve if possible should be right next to the main solenoid. I usually actually put them together with the smallest T nipple I can find. Should be bottle / main shutoff valve / purge / solenoid then to splitter then jets. If you want to get extremely technical you would look into getting a splitter that will evenly disperse the nitrous between all jets equally. I have seen people setup splitters and get more nitrous on the first jet and less on the last jet (fuel rail kinda setup). When you setup the s300 make sure that when it triggers the nitrous it also compensates in fuel output and timing. You will also want a main shutoff switch attached to that trigger so that you can keep it off when you are not using it (at track guy turned on his car with nitrous on... it blew the intake manifold in half. Also check to make sure the jets will not freeze over or if they have something to keep them from freezing up. There are a few ways out there to do this but not sure if you will have this issue. One last thing make sure that if you can get it use medical grade nitrous WITHOUT sulfur. There are a few shops out there selling it this way. No need to put junk into the motor as sulfur doesnt really burn and will scar the block and pistons. Good luck and keep it safe..

PyroProblem

If I'm not mistaken, all the sulfur does is deter people from huffing it, and let me tell you, IT WORKS!!!
I was once told the sulfur helps "lubricate" the solenoids, but I haven't seen anything to back this up...

Only other thing that might be a good idea is a in car fuel pressure gauge and a permanently mounted wideband O2 sensor.

wreckeddc4

Got the wideband, but not the in car fuel pressure.
I'm hoping that the wideband will let me know any fuel supply issues I may find. But it is a good idea.

snobordboy

If you are still building the motor, make sure that you set the ring gaps wider for nitrous than you would for an N/A build. I made that mistake on my last engine, the one thing I overlooked, and it cost me a piston!

creationz

Actually sulfur does not stop the huffers. I have seen these guys make a bong type device with a 5 gallon sparklets bottle to clear out the sulfur. Next you have to remember sulfur is a mineral that does not burn in the cylinders. So imagine super fine sand going in there every time you squeeze. Sulfur also is not a lubricant and does not help lubricate the solenoids. It will build up in your cylinders, intake, and other parts of your engine. I have seen it time and time again scaring from the squeeze and build up of sulfur. Also I agree with the wideband O2 sensor. Like I said verify that you ECU will compensate fuel and timing when you press that squeeze. The last thing you need is detonation.

PyroProblem

^^^ Interesting.

I went to take a "hit" one time and I couldn't get even a half a lung full due to the horrible sulfur taste/smell, LOL I just stick to whip cream chargers now

wreckeddc4

^ lol.
On a more related note... I can't wait to get this thing done and make some passes. Season is over here in NY so I gotta wait out the long *** winter.

Also, I'm running s300, and apparently it knows not to spray while on 2 step, but I wanna juice out the hole so is the ecu gonna know enough to start spraying when the car starts moving? Or will i have to setup a button to arm the system as I release the clutch?

What relay should I use between the solenoid and the ecu output?
Spst or spdt?

creationz

You can install a micro switch on the throttle body so that it switched on at full throttle and then shuts off when you let off the gas. I dont usually setup systems that squeeze before hitting full throttle...bogging detonation and other problems..

wreckeddc4

Well the s300 goes off the tps input I think. And you can adjust it to spray at 100% throttle or whatever you want. You can also set the windo parameters like min and max rpm, and also keep it from spraying if your coolant temp is too high or too low. I'm also going to have my wideband linked to the ecu so it will stop spraying if it goes too lean.
I'm using e85 for fuel so detonation/ octane issues will hopefully be fewer.