New to the forum to get advise on how to go about tuning a fresh build to get it started and up and running properly before I take it to the dyno. Here is some info on the build that may help as to why I am having trouble getting it started this is my first build ever.

B18a1 block
9:1 CP Pistons 81.5
Eagle rods
Acl main bearings and oem rod bearings all to spec
everything new on block and head, oil and water pump, seals, etc
S300

GSR head
sirII cams
Ferrea 6000 valves
Type R valve springs and retainers
Adjustable cam gears zero'd out currently
Skunk2 intake manifold and TB 66mm matched
Stock map sensor for now (had trouble with moto 2.5 bar)
AEM Fuel rail and FPR set at about 40psi
DSM 450 blacktop injectors with resistors wired up
NGK bkr7e gapped to about 28

Turbo stuff:
Holset HY35 exhaust side/HE351 compressor side
Treadstone log manifold
38mm Tial WG
Tial BOV
2.5 charge piping
2.5 downpipe to 3" ecut and 3" all the way back to vibrant


Now to the issue at hand, from the moment I got it to start it idled very rough like it had a huge set of cams in it and idled low (500rpm and below)
Had the injectors set to 450's and only way I could get it to idle any better was to play with the fuel trim idled way better and was at about 700rpm, did not die and started lowering the trim and making my way back down to zero, it got all the way up to temp then about a minute after it just shut off. Pulled the plugs and they were soaked to no surprise from all the fuel thrown in just to get it to idle better. Dried the plugs changed oil and filter, tried to start it again and it's back to having this same problem of lopey/low idle.

This is the first engine I've built and first time trying to get a new engine started and I've been learning the basics of changing this setting does this in return, but just need more knowledge from someone whose been through this a lot more than me hoping someone has had this happen and knows this symptom. If anyone needs any more info on the build or pics that they need to know to help diagnose this then feel free and ask I'm in for all the knowledge that's given to me. Thanks all

-Justin

 

Do you have a wideband hooked up? What base map are you using to start off with?

 

Gotta have a wideband. You are looking to achieve as close to 14.7:1 as you can at an idle.

 

Yes aem wideband is wired up to pin d14 the primary O2, started it on a stock itr basemap and worked from there majority of the time it was hanging around 15:1

 

Well, problem #1: You're using an ITR basemap on a motor with a CR a whole two points lower than an ITR would have. Do you have an actual wideband O2 sensor, or are you wiring the AEM gauge into the stock O2 sensor? Option 2, well, it doesn't work that way. Of course it didn't play nice with your 2.5BAR MAP sensor - your tune wasn't set up properly for it. On the stock 1BAR sensor, it would read .5BAR as 50%. All your ECU sees is 50% at .5 BAR, so your ECU is adjusting for that. Slap the 2.5 BAR sensor on there, and now it's seeing 20%, thinking you're at .2 BAR, and adjusting for that, even though you're at .5 BAR.

You'd do well to contact your tuner, tell them everything you have, and see if s/he can make a basemap so you can safely drive straight to him, and no where else. If s/he can't or won't, then start off by contacting Xenocron and ordering this, then consider finding a new tuner.

 

It's a full wideband with the wideband sensor as well. And the only reason I switched out the map sensor is because the 2.5 bar would only read 14lbs of vacuum no matter what, if the ignition is on it would read that if I cranking it over it would read that and if the engine was running it would still read that even with the setting selected as running a moto 2.5 bar which was all wired correctly so I put the stock back in put the setting back to running a stock map and it's reading 0.2lbs of vacuum while its not running which sounded much better to me. I will give another basemap a shot and then contact the tuner for some input as well. Thanks

 

Bring it to a tuner.

 

Just trying to at least get it to reliably start for the tuner to work off something at least so I'm not trailoring him a car that doesn't even start

 

And that's what a basemap is for. Hop to.

 

I'll try tomorrow when I'm not at work and report back

 

You need to scale the map for the larger map sensor or everything you're doing is in vain.

 

Got it started today with a stock LS map and just changed my injector size it ran fair idled around 600-700 got it all up to temp and it did not die. Only thing it did do finicky is with any change in throttle position the rpms would not move at all which I have not ran into before and the tps is calibrated and reading properly. So any knowledge on that is appreciated. And I have been hearing both sides of whether I should at least break in the motor before I take it to a tuner and let them take care of it. I know breaking in a motor which is not fully tuned you need to be very cautious, but then I'm hearing you should do the routine heat cycles then go straight to dyno which I was leaning on. Any opinions would be nice to hear I know everyone has their own ways of doing it

 

You're tuner, Should provide you with a start up map.
You're tuner, should break in the car, if he's tuning the setup.

Break-ins, literally take, 10 mins once load is put on the car. Contact your tuner, and setup something.

 

Will arrange something asap. Just trying to make things go as smoothly as possible once the car is brought to the dyno want to try to be as worry free as possible so things are not going wrong at the dyno and wasting their time. Never done this before never been to a dyno I'm just imaging they're pretty on about their stuff and don't want their time wasted

 

Which is exactly why you should be calling your tuner, asking them for a basemap, and asking them exactly what they want when you bring your car to them. Different tuners will want different things - ask yours, and come fully prepared.