legend99

i just picked up a 91 hatch si that was in need of some love from a buddy. the clutch is beyond gone and smokes when cold. but i knew that going in. my plans are to strip out interior as lights as possible,chassis support, and motor build. i want to keep the d16 (still not sure what it is exactly yet i think d16a6) because its a fun track car and not trying to go stupid on spending tring to swap to a b, k or h series. NOW WITH THAT SAID.

i want to find a way to get around 10hp per pound which means if i can get car down to 2000lbs i need approx 200hp. i know the motor need rebuilt just not sure if i should re-ring it and over-haul what i got and throw a t3/t4 on it OR rebuild with new pistons and go all motor or new pistons and t3/t4.

keep in mind this is got to be a some what street able car because i have to keep it inspected/licensed/tagged to run what im doing. i want to make it as much as track car as possible though. i dont need 300hp because im not running 1/4 mile, im running oval track time trials and one on ones.

hit me with some ideas and suggestions. oh and i need to find a way to tune it. i am new to honda and use to plug and play computer flashes on OBD2.

thanks for the help

1991civiclx13

I would do some research before asking for suggestions... https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/88-91-crx-ef-civic-frequently-asked-questions-faqs-1508680/ good luck!

legend99

awesome...i was just overwhelmed with info. im new to forums and still tring to figure out the searching. BUT that page is AMAZING.

darkhorizon

I have a boosted D16a6 that I have been enjoying quite a bit, and I am coming from the boosted GM world.

It has a very cheaply rebuilt motor that is ready for 400whp.... you could probably be out the door with a built motor and a turbo kit for 1500-2000 bucks... I was lucky enough to buy my car put together.

legend99

ok after lots of reading today ive learned that i have a d16a6 that needs rebuilt and has 11:1 compression, i would like to do the "mini-me" and throw on a d16y8 head and get the better flow and v-tech...now the issue is compression. i dont care if i have to run 93 octane. but would like to boost with at least 10lbs. i been searching and found a intake to go on the y8 head that is better flow and more equal along with a new 68mm TB.

now comes my questions...
--with all the above being said can i still run stock d16a6 pistons with just a simple re-ring job on pistons? i know it will have sightly higher compression so how will that play into the turbo? OR do i need to get new pistons and/or rods to lower the compression.

--also when it comes to tuning im still lost...to say the least

--will the stock 91' si tranny work under the power i tring to get or do i need to look at upgrading?

--also what kinda clutch is decient, i can get a stock sacks clutch and flywheel for around $140 but i dont know if it will handle what i tring to get either.

please forgive me if i am totally off in left field, just trying to learn my DD is a 06 STI stage 2 and that is worlds apart from what im working on.im use to calling someone up and getting a off the shelf base tune to get running then dyno tune after that. with this i cant even figure out how to get a base more/less anything else.

im open to suggestions and advise.

TearSDMF89dx

you didn't spend enough time in the faq's thread there is at least a months worth of reading in there

legend99

OH YAH i found probably a few months of reading i was just hoping someone could point me in a direction? ive got like 2 months to build a car and have track ready and it could take me that long to read through every thread.lol i need to get parts ordered by the end of the week.

stackedhouse

That might be a little high on compression if you want cheap rods and pistons look into fjd custom rods and vitara pistons

crvtectim

200whp is easily attainable on a healthy bone stock D with boost. Psi means nothing. Converting to OBD1 is recommended. For your goals you don't need anything but a nice turbo kit. Check out goautoworks.com. Proper tuning is what will make your motor last. Your trans will be fine. Stock clutch is a maybe but I'd opt for something rated for the torque you plan to make. Go fast, turn left. Your sti is sloooow. Welcome to H-T!

oldspriteguy

Hey Legend! I'm in the same boat as you. Mine is an 89 ef with a stock B16 and the cheapest way to get 10 lbs. per HP is to get rid of extra weight. Spend some time (lots of time) scraping the crud & rustproofing from under the shell. Do a complete strip to the first undercoat, then start your build. Nothing fancy on mine & I'm running with big heavy Integra brakes but its on the track at 1860 lbs. I just gained 14 HP over your build at no cost & light weight is VERY reliable! Best of luck..see you at Mosport?

legend99

ok things have changed, ive been working on the weight watchers program and cutting fat. there is nothing from seats back but a few plastics. we have been working on the POS motor and it needs more than orginaly planned. i figured it up and looking at around 200 for decient clutch/flywheel then 400 in rebuilding before i even get to turbo which is 700 for a cheapO ebay setup which in not 100% sold on. BUT my buddy has found a B18b swap with motor LS trany (or maybe a B16 trany), mounts, axels for $1200. hes tring to talk me into the swap and im starting to consider it (not what i ogrianlly wanted but i dont know yet) anyways i know if i got that route i going to have to get a OBD1 computer, harness, probably still a new clutch (while its apart), and figure out the shift linkage.

my question is $1200 a good deal for a b18b with the mounts, axels and trany (the guy that has it said he can get a ls or b16 trany) if i got this way i do not plan on boosting it anytime soon but still want my goal of 200hp.

crvtectim

That motor can be had online for $690.

Street price for transmission around here is about $200 for an LS and maybe $300 for a B16. Is it cable or hydro? NO GRINDS or other BS!

Mounts as in Hasport or similar for B-Series swap into EF Civic? Cable or hydro trans? If not, you can't use them anyways.

Lifetime warranty axles from Vatozone or similar go for around $50 each (my cost) so maybe $80-100 each retail?

How complete is his motor? Intake manifold, distributor, exhaust manifold, uncut engine harness, all sensors, all accessories, etc.?

If it were me, I'd offer him around $600. Then let him counter at $700. <--- That's a fair street price considering you go pick it up (no shipping) and factoring in a 30-40% price slash because it's used. But all of it better be in good working order!

legend99

wow im way off in left field then. this motor he has is in condition (or so he says) trany just rebuilt but a shop. comes complete less wiring,ecu, and shifter. for $1200. same guy (its a shop) has b18b with b16 trany, axels, mounts, ecu, shifter and harness for 1500.pretty much same deal just tacked on 300 for ecu and harness and shifter.

ive been ebay shopping to see what i can find as far as swaps, but most are JDM motors ripped out with harness cut and have no history. there are no b18s in my area that i can find on craigslist. nore are there any tranys.

crvtectim

Well, after that info, the rebuilt trans is a plus especially if it's covered under warranty.

You won't be using an OBD2 engine harness anyways as it's much, much easier to modify the harness from your Civic to run the new engine.

It's pretty simple to modify any LS shift linkage to fit your needs by cutting about 3 inches out of it and re-welding it back together.

If the trans is hydro, you're looking at having to spend more money there to make it work in your cable trans chassis. Search cable to hydro conversion for more info.

As for ecu, you need to decide if you want to stay OBD0 or convert to OBD1. I strongly suggest the latter for tuning purposes.

Are these swaps still in cars so a compression/leak down test can be done to determine the health of your possible purchase?

The guys asking prices are not totally outrageous, but he's not really cutting you any "deals" either. It's tax time, so it's the worst time for you to be shopping because every seller preps for this time of year because they know you have money to blow! And if you don't, the next guy does.

For full swaps online, check hmotors or tigerjapan.

Whiterice-gsr

if u get a jdm motor the harness wont work anyway because its all backwards (rhd) so u need a harness but u can use one from any b series motor, go with obd1. imho i think hes asking way too much for those motors, where i am u could expect to pay 1500 to 2000 for a decent gsr swap which would be awesome in your chassis with just a few bolts n\a. if u really wanna kick *** buy a jdm b18c with a few upgrades and an n\a tune u will kick some serious *** in an 1800 pound car.

Slacker93eg

This thread screams junkyard build. Not sure where you're from, but around chicago craigslist is flooded with engines for sale. I picked my b18 up for 200$, and trans for 180$. If you go that route you can do an LS vtec with some headwork and get 200hp pretty easily. If you want to go just regular b18 swap throw a medium size turbo on there and boost it a little bit. I could see your goals being met with about 1500$ in parts if you can find good deals. Junk yards will have a lot of parts you need, even a turbo. A turbo from an eclipse would probably be just fine for what you're trying to accomplish. I'm not any type of guru or anything even close, but this is some info i've gathered in my reading on HT.

Whiterice-gsr

i say stay n\a and spend the turbo money on a nice motor.

Slacker93eg

I agree, for 200hp on a budget that needs to be done in 2 months you should go N/A. With boost you'll need a tune no matter how much boost you run.

bigpunn421

slap a supercharger on there and tune it the old school way. the jrsc kit comes with a fmu usually. its not the safest or the best but its cheap. and your car would be alot better on a race track na vs jrsc.

i wish i still had my jrsc for my d series i would of sold it to ya

they sell from $500-$1000 depends on condition and extras

legend99

well availability has been my problem. i live in hampton roads virginia and there is nothing here. i just looked again and there 1 in my area and thats the guy that my buddy found and i been talking to. (no tranys and 1 motor) this guy runs a honda shop and the motor is out of the car and really no way to check compression.

i found some decient combos from tiger japan but have heard bad things about them. can anyone tell me somwething good about them. maybe then i wouldnt feel so bad about buying from them.

if anyone on here has a b16 vtech or a b18 w/vtech or w/o let me know i got funds just nothing to work with.

im going to check into this supercharger deal, i never heard for that for a lil 4 banger.lol.

AND buy the way nothing junkyard about it, im willing to pay for quality just nothing in my area im having to resort to ebay for most everything.

crvtectim

If that's really how you feel, why would you recommend it to another member?

Have you looked into salvage yards in your area yet? Most of them will not stock cars over 10 years old, but you never know.

These two are in NC: 800-962-8922 Import Auto Salvage or there's 828-245-3686 for Butler Auto Sales

As for tigermotors, I had a good experience with them when I purchased my B20B longblock. The tps was broken, but that's likely to happen to any motor being shipped. The thing you have to watch for when dealing with them is the incorrect information on engines and their origins that they spew out over the phone. I lol at some of the stuff they've told me, but I know better so it's not a huge deal because I tell them what I need. Whatever you do, don't allow them to tell you what you need. Their prices are hard to beat plus they make deals and price match if it's apples to apples.

Steve at hmotors is by far the most knowledgeable person I've spoke with on the phone concerning swaps. No incorrect info given from him that I can recall. Their prices are higher than any others I've seen, but their reputation is great!