Geoff92

Hi there, I have recently picked up my 2nd car, a 1993 Honda Civic Si(cdm) Coupe. Im not a complete stranger to forced induction, as i have helped a friend of mine a LOT with his 1986 (early 86) Toyota Celica Supra with a 7m-gte swap (ended up with 300whp pretty much stock). now im not 100% sure of what i need, but i will list what i know of, and you let me know what im missing? thanks.

-A good stock rebuild to the bottom end,
-Turbocharger/manfiold (my case, i would be happy with just a 16g or even a 14b)
-need to tap pan/block for oil feed and drain on turbo.
-larger injectors (like DSM 450's or something) and maybe some sort of aftermarket adjustable FPR?
-Intercooler and piping
-some sort of blow off valve
-a tune, (send my ecu of to xenocron for basemaps, then to the dyno for a tune)
-not 100% needed, but a pcv oil catch can
*also, any recommendations what cam to use for FI? or would stock be suffice for such a "light" build?

but other than that, am i missing much?
Im just looking for a small cheap build, only run around 8-10psi at most something to make it a bit quick, thank you for reading and your help with me appreciated, thanks!

zedron

iTrader: (1)

Add:

Higher flow fuel pump (Walbro 255)
Wastegate (If your turbo doesnt have an internal)
Dump tube
Boost gauge

darkvader0

Keeping stock SOHC motor?

If you have the motor apart for a rebuild, rebuild with stronger rods and forged pistons, not stock.

You'll probably want to veer away from Mitsubishi (14b, 16g etc) turbo mindset and get into T3 flanged turbo mindset.

Geoff92

ya, just talked to a friend that might be selling his T3.. also, if its a low boost/small turbo application. if forged internals really that needed? (if i have a good tune, so doesnt lean out and melt the pistons)

and yes fuel pump, forgot about that. thanks!

99JDMHATCH

What is your goal for power? Reason i ask is because a SOHC is risky to push pass 220whp.

Geoff92

Too be honest, no real power goal. just a small turbo setup running around the 8 psi area, and whatever power it makes, it makes. i just want a fun little toy, nothing extreme.

on a side note, i would use ARP Headstuds, and ARP rod bolts.

HiProfile

You could just re-ring the pistons, new HG & arp's, 190lph Walbro pump (400hp max), and bearings/oil pump if they look worn - and be happy as a clam for a while. The last d16z6 I worked on did 10.9 psi for a few weeks with an ebay 57trim t3/t4, tracked a few times a week & thrashed on the street the remainder. It was a 100% stock EX with 181k miles on the clock. He sold it and it blew up a week after, but we think the new owner turned the boost up. It couldn't sense more than 11psi, so it wasn't a surprise. He had 2k into the entire car+setup and was almost doing 13's in the quarter - on steelies.

I'd suggest a 50trim or 60trim T3, it will last a long time if tuned right. Both will spool fast, and be very fun for a daily driver. Everything you suggested in the 1st post minus the FPR is a good idea. The cam won't help if you don't upgrade rods/pistons, since the stock head/cam has seen 400hp in some cases (search Epic Tuning RT4wd). You'll get a bit more from a small turbo, but in most cases a stock motor+small turbo can do 200hp - enough for stock rods & pistons.


BTW a cheap upgrade if you open your motor would be FJT custom-length rods and vitara pistons. That will make the block good for >400hp and still have decent compression for the street.

Geoff92

okay thank you very much. the turbo my friend offered me was a 48trim T3 Garrett.

Geoff92

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Vitara-Turbo-Pist...item20af0c6b03

That actually looks like a pretty good deal, considering everything you get, its just the rods that seem rather expensive, anyone?

HiProfile

http://fjdistributors.com/product_in...roducts_id=285

That's the best deal for a d16, bar none. You won't find rods much cheaper than $300, maaaaaybe some used eagles for $250 or used tuner toyz for $200. That deal is like a $110 piston set plus $315 rod set - a good deal for both, plus you get a better rod/stroke ratio and better compression for a street motor.


If by 48trim T3 you mean the ".42/.48" saab/volvo/ford/merkur turbo, it's usually a 50trim, rarely a 45trim. Both would be perfect for a stock d-series.

Geoff92

Yes, im highly considering that, even if i stay with this sub 200hp thought, it would be nice having the reliabilty of a solid bottom end, and if i ever wanted to upgrade i could without another rebuild, but this is just a thought for the next year or two, who knows what could happen.

and yes, im pretty sure he said it was from some sort of ford..