There is no fan that will fit that flows 2500cfm. The biggest fan you can fit is the 13" version. It draws 18.7amps and pulls 1720cfm. Its what kept me cool this whole summer, and my a/c for that matter to.

 

http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102030

i believe thats the 2000cfm+ spal fan that LHT sells

 

I need a job, like right now.

 

Thats M^3/hr not CFM. The conversion to CFM is ~1400cfm

 

Your problem is likely air flow to your radiator being blocked by the IC. A lot of good suggestions in this thread. Here is what i have done. Everything on the hot side is ceramic coating all the way back to the exhaust. 80% distilled water, 15% water wetter and 5% antifreeze, drilled 3 small holes in Tstat, wrapped manifold, downpipe, and turbo using DEI titanium wrap and t3 kit, custom radiator shroud and spal fan setup controlled by S300. The only thing left is cutting holes in the bumper which I'm trying to avoid.

 

i think my next move is to go for a new thermostat or drilling 3 holes in my existing one, i had the car out again last night after filling her up with the moCool..only to be let down by my engine temps. this is becoming a pain in the ***.

 

drilling holes in your thermostat is gona prevent the thermostat from working properly, im tired of posting about this crap, then people are crying they had to replace their thermostat

 

so then i'm going to just replace it, my thermostat is probably about 8-10 years old..couldn't it not be opening all the way or too late?

 

typically they either open, or they get stuck, imo i would go with a lower temp thermostatic, they sell 170 degree thermostats @ rockauto.com, im using a 170 degree gates thermostat (just because i hate stant brand products)

 

if you are running a honda based ecm, which iirc you are, compromising the t stat, or going colder, will keep the car in warm up temperature trim for the fueling.

i had my drag kit on for 4 years with the stock single core and ac.

i think you have other issues.

 

my car never over heated before going boost, so this problem is directly related to that. I switched to moCool, and the effects of it are certainly lacking. i'm thinkng of replacing my thermostat only because well whynot? i'm also thinking of throwing in a radiator cap. the temp gauge in my cluster never goes passed normal, but my hondata throws me a check engine and when i open the laptop she show's temps up and around 220-230 until i let the car cool obviously. why wouldn't my factory temp gauge be rising passed the normal mark??

i forgot to add that my coolant reservoir has been filling whenever this happens.

 

coolant res filling is definitely a sign of the car running too hot, i would recommend a lower degree thermostat big time, I replaced all the coolant related sensors with airtex replacements from rockauto.com when i rebuilt mine to ensure i dont have a problem to begin with, ive always been plagued with cooling system problems with all my cars in the past, so im very weary about how i handle situations like this.

 

this might sound stupid, but which one is the low temp? i'm on rockauto's site now and see the diff temp ratings some say 170 degrees which to me would mean lowest, but i've also been made to understand that the factory one begins to open at 170 as well.

 

OEM tstat is 180 degrees on the LS as far as i know, they should make them in 10 and 20 degrees lower then the factory tstat, i only feel comfortable running 10 degrees lower because then you run into trouble with getting up to operating temps in the winter.

 

i don't drive the car during the winter months, i already know i gotta get the moCool, outta there when i store it. So a 170 degree T-stat is my best purchase right?

 

its what i would use, not to hot, not too cold

 

^^ thanx brotha!

 

will upgrading to a mishimoto radiator make a big difference? or am i better off running a fan with a higher CFM?

 

as long as the engine hasnt been compromised, the rad will help. but again, if there is another underlying issue, the radprobably wont help.

 

by the time ur done buying band aids (like lower tstats and water wetter and crap) u could have bought a thick alum. radiator from ebay and NEVER have to worry about it again.

They are like 100 shipped, prolly 30 more than u just spent on crap u dont need.

 

assuming there isnt an underlying issue.
a lifted head wont get fixed by a bigger radiator.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mishi...ht_1922wt_1165



thats an 80 degree switch but you can get the idea. but normally a street car wont need this, these are meant for track use as far as i know.

@ freesh dot you need a better radiator. i had this same problem with my last engine setup. My stock half size radiator was pretty junk and had seen better days, even with no thermostat installed it ran quite hot. i ended up blowing the stock head gasket. mishimoto radiators are great but i really wanted a three row core so i went CXRACING because it was half the price of the mishimoto http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRac...#ht_7290wt_939

 

get a 13" spal fan, install relay, and 30 amp fuse onto a dual core radiator and your good to go... i would try to get your fan to turn on at like 180.

 

I had this problem on hot days too. I already have a dual core aluminum radiator with fan and it would still overheat a little sometimes.I wrapped my ramhorn and downpipe in exhaust wrap and it made a huge difference.Especially because my 3in dp was close to the radiator. No problems as of yet.

 

had the car out yesterday..fairly hot day out, monitored temps the whole time..she never got higher then 212 and saw a fair amount of abuse throughout the day. the only thing i've done thus far is the moCool. It seems to be working, I'm going to be going on a 1.5 hour ride this weekend up to pennsylvania from NYC with the car and seeing how the temps look. If I don't exceed this 212 mark I pretty much think i'm all set.