Freshdot

been boosted for like a week. my cooling system seems to all be in line and working properly, thermostat opens when she's supposed to, cooling fan clicks on at 195, and my radiator was recently topped off and bled. but after some spirited driving yesterday which was a 92 degree NY day, my check engine came on - checked the hondata out and she gave me the overheating code, my protection is set at 220 which is why i think a check engine was triggered. by the time i pulled over my temp reading hit about 232, which i don't like when compared to the old 195-200 reading's i'm used to..my temp gauge on the dash never went passed the halfway mark and would drop as i picked up speed on the highway. is this normal for a boosted car on a hot *** day or is something fishy here? even the hood of my car felt beyond normally hot when touched from the outside. i thought about doing a hood tilt, but i'm just not JDM enough for that. <- total joke hahaha. i know it does serve function, but its not for me.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

When u go boost, theres hotter conditions then when your NA..

A good Dual core or triple core radiator and a good fan should do ya..


I mean a good fan.. Xenocron.com has a 13" 1500 CFM fan that will kool your jets.

Freshdot

i was talking to a buddy who suggested i drilled 3 holes through the thermostat and switch to a coolant called moCool, any thoughts?..don't have radiator money, just went boost you guys know how it goes.

habib

I agree with EsotericImage

Freshdot

so do i, i just need a fix for now.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

no, drilling holes through your thermostat just prevents it from doing its job, you need a larger cooling system, either a double core rad or bigger fans will do the job. Also, changing your coolant mix will help as well... 75/25 mix + water wetter or purple ice will help lower coolant temps up to 5-10 degrees.

blackeg

a good fan/radiator combo is probably the way to go.

in the meantime, mess with the mixture, using closer to all water and less coolant. also make sure the fan protection is set to come on nice and early like 170 degrees or something. you can also heatwrap your manifold/downpipe, as well as a new cooler opening thermostat...

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

i have a 170 degree thermostat with my JRSC, it really does not help at all unless you have a bigger rad and cooling fans lol that **** cooks on hot days.

Freshdot

wait so more water is better than more coolant? i'm not doubting you just wanna make sure you didn't mix that up.

do you guys still think i'll run into this issue on a cooler day? 95 in NYC is hot as ***** when u factor 100% humidity into the mix

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

No, not necessarily, antifreeze raises the boiling point and lowers the freezing point of water, that's what you cant run straight water. 25% antifreeze generally is the lowest mix ratio you can go before you start to have problems. I cant say whether or not you will run into this issue again, thats part of you driving the car and evaluating its cooling needs.

b16racereg6

iTrader: (2)

Do this. But like he said your Fan is comeing on So late man make the fan come on early that will Make a Huge diffrace. My fan turns on right at 170 and it helps it really good and i am running a cheap small ebay single core rad. But i am going to get a new bigger dual core for those 90+ deg days. G.L man

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

how did you get the fans to come on exactly at 170 degrees?

2kdrift

100% WATER runs cooler problem is its gunna boil, ALOT sooner and all your water gunna be gone and your car is gunna overheat. antifreeze raises boiling temp so u need some of this stuff i usually dont got past A 50 50 mix (and its always hot here in hawaii) there are other products( coolant additives )that claim to make your car run cooler normally for race applications. i would say get a good mishimoto aluminum tank triple core FTW

2kdrift

there are aftermarket fan switches u can get diff temperatures

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

care to post a link please sir

Freshdot

I use my hondata to adjust the point at which the fan comes on, a friend of mine uses a remote fan switch. In the meantime until I can afford a new radiator I think I will just lower the fan switch to 170 and use a 75/25 mix of moCool and water. Thanx for the input guys!

blackeg

it might raise the boiling point but i believe it negatively impacts its heat dissapation properties.

water boils at 212F at 1 bar or standard atmospheric pressure. increasing the pressure of your radiator cap will increase the boiling point of straight water in your cooling system. iirc its 10 degrees for every .1 bar you increase.


and as the original poster said, in the hondata you can over ride the fan switch and have it come on and stay on past a certain temperature. over a long highway trip its really not going to help that much but just putting around town it makes it take longer to really warm up.

Freshdot

Yea 100% water doesn't sound like to great of an idea. If I was trying to power the car on steam and not boost then maybe hahaha. Messin around dude.. overall my situation isn't all too bad, the moCool claims to reduce ECT by 30 degrees if that's the case then I should be in great shape..I can also refrain from driving in high outside temp conditions and on days and times where I know there will be traffic. The car was just tuned so I was alittle hyper to run around town on Saturday knowing that conditions weren't the best for a boosted car - 95 degrees and 100% humidity.

sp00led

I'm not sure if I missed which type of fan you are running. Go with a SPAL fan as they are superior to anyone elses slim fans. Night and day difference. Don't expect mericals from watter wetter products.

I've been fighting overheating problems since day one in the 90F+ temps and the bottom line is majority of the time it is an airflow problem. I'm restricted to a 10" diameter fan because of my 4" anti-surge inlet/intake design. AC manifold put me in a serious space crunch behind my radiator and in front the tranny.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Turbocharged? Running a little lean? Honda's really dont have a big problem with heat unless your running something that causes it to heat up much faster then normal. Its been in the high 90s here in jersey over the past 2 days and the fans are running non stop with the supercharger, but i dont overheat.

Also another question...does anyone know how much CFM the factory fans flow?

Freshdot

I think I'm going to run a small hood tilt just enough to dissipate some of the heat (nothing too jdm y0), switch to a 75% coolant to 25% water mix and add the motul moCool to the mix. Also I'm going to refrain from raggin' on the car in this heat wave we are currently having. My civic isn't my daily so its not like I have to deal with this problem right away. When I can afford it I'll prob switch to a nice mishimoto with a new fan I have room for a big boy, never mind the slim stuff. I'll prob go back to a 50/50 at that point and add the moCool just for good measure again.

sp00led

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/f...s_r/index.html

^ This is the car I'm talking about. I've never had problems in 70/80F weather or drag racing. It's only in 90-105F temps that I noticed it starting to get hot and then it's only after boosting around town some.

That was before I had the SPAL fan though. Previously in 90F weather once up to temp the fan would run and never turn off. It wouldn't overheat but wasn't cycling like it was supposed to. I haven't put it under a good test run around town yet but I was happy to find today that in 85F temps in my garage it was cycling on for only 10-15 secs and then back off.

My only point is that the added exhaust parts add heat to the vehicle. Don't run any fan besides a SPAL and the bigger the better.

I would like to know what the stock fan flows. I wish I could fit something similar to a stock fan shroud.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

damn, those spal fans are so expensive :/

sp00led

http://www.jaycorptech.com/pc-52-14-...-slim-fan.aspx

It was $75 to the door. I think I got my first slim fan on here from b18turbo in the marketplace. It was close to 45 shipped so it wasn't much more.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

thats not the same fan...that only flows 650cfm, the spal fan we are talking about flows 2500 cfm