h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

I have a 95' eg and I currently maxed out my walbro 255 at 400 hp on e85
Was hoping to see how you guys are installing the 450
I've heard different people are running bigger wire and relays
But can someone specify how it's done... Thanks

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

the 255 should get you passed that HP level especiall if its a high pressure unit. You should already be running better wiring to that pump. On a standard pressure 255 and id 1000's we were able to get about 450hp and were completely out of fuel pump. Anyhow with a 450 you should run a 8 or 10 gauge wire with a 50 amp relay. I ran mine with 30amp relay woth 10awg wire and it was melting the wires on the pigtail.

You should buy the specific connector and run the larger wiring into the tank with the right connector and seal it odd on the top. Bellanger motorsports sells the connectors. they are gm delphi / packard metripack 280 sealed connector

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

Sweet.!! Thanks boss.!!!
Ya. I ran out of fuel at 400hp on my 255hp on 50lbs of fuel pressure

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

How much boost? We started with a static base pressure of 50 and ran out of fuel at 21 pounds which puts a standard 255 at its limit before it falls on its face flow wise. What injectors?

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

RC 1000's. on 8.4 psi

I was surprised it maxed out at 400 hp On 50 psi fuel pressure.
It's started dropping hard after 6,000 rpm
So basically made 400hp 286tq at 6,000 rpm at 8.4 psi boost. Vtec was set at 4,600
I usually rev it to 9k. My tuner said I can make 500-550 on low boost with the 1000's and a walbro 450.
Then I'll probably need more injector.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

8.4 psi what turbo?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

You'll need to hard wire the pump with large gauge wiring

Google it. It's common place these days to hardwire a fuel pump

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

I googled it.
I was just wondering how most people did it cuz I only found a couple of old posts on how to do it.

Does 50 amp relay and 8 gauge wire sound good.?

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

T4
.96 hot. .70 cold
Journal
Garrett internals

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Ground the pump to the chassis. Run a wire directly from the battery to a fuse then to the relay, have another wire run from the relay to the pump, use the ecu pump signal wire to activate the relay

Done

And 50 amps is excessive, no single intank pump will ever draw that much current

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Also 8 gauge wiring is overkill. You'll never draw that much current as you're limited by the wire size on the pump, it will only move so much current. I'd go one size bigger than the pump to ensure adequate voltage/amperage. It will also be easier to wire in because no relay will accept wiring that's 8 gauge

shawty22

255 and 1000s should get you way past the power you're at right now. Last year I made 560whp on a dynojet with a single 255 and pte1000s. Base pressure was 45psi and it was on 20psi of boost.

As for wiring on the 450lph pump...I haven't up sized any wires and have been driving it for 2-3 months now with no issues. Haven't really pushed the pump to hard...right now the car makes around 600whp dynojet numbers with 2150cc injectors. Have a couple more bugs to work out and should be going back to the dyno to really push it.

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

Did u add a relay.? And or fuse ?

I was leaning out bad after 7,000 rpm
The pump was like 4 yrs old.
Also all stock lines too btw.

Jsarv

Actually a 450 draws around 33amps at 13.1v and 75psi. #10 is good for 30amps safely over any significant distance. While this current draw is generally only for short periods #10 should be just fine. This was tested on my EJ coupe on the dyno with a full tank of fuel (relevant for pump temperature).

Just fyi

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Want post the 450 will draw more than 10awg will allow. I ran mine with 10awg and melted the wire close to the tank. It has adequate grounding and I'm well knowledges in wiring so not just hacked up. Lol. Ill be running 6 on my magnafuel

Jsarv

If you melted #10 wire your ground was weak or you covered a large distance from a poor source. I run paralleled 40a relays with #10 wire from the trunk mounted battery for redundancy incase of relay failure.
#10 is sufficient as long as its done correctly. Ive been an electrician (specialize in industrial control systems) for 10 years.

Just don't pull 10s back to your main relay. It will fail.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

I've been Running Wires in cars for 18 years pretty sure I know what I'm doing. I had a very adequate ground as short as possible. Wire was directly to the battery. Relay was mounted under the seat in the rear and the wiring on the relay pigtail that was rated for 30 amps melted. You can't say because you did it and it worked that it should always work. Granted I cant say my scenario either for everyone. Plenty people did it this way and have success while many have had issues. I know mine was not a wiring error.

Jsarv

Front/hood mounted battery? Ever heard of voltage drop? What were ambient temps when it happened? Fuel tank level? There are so many factors, nearly all have to have heat factored in, as heat in wiring creates more resistance even in the windings of the pump motor. And FYI the current rating on a 30a 5pin relay wired N/O is not 30a. The 30a wearing is based on the NC contacts.

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

So what do u guys think will be the best way to do it.
I have a rear mounted battery
Also what relay...
Everyone seems like they do it different.
I just need to know who has done it with success
It is a street car and I drive it for long periods of time.

.nate

Just use a standard automotive relay. Trigger it with the +12v wire that already goes to the fuel pump. I can't remember if I ran 10g or 8g wire from the battery to the relay, I'll try to check later on. I do remember I rebuilt/upgraded the jumper harness that goes from the oem pump plug to the walbro's plug so I could run whatever larger wire I had all the way to the pump. It's really that simple. Working fine with my walbro 450.

92cxyd

I use a MSD 2351 digital to keep the voltage stable and puts the voltage 16v at 20psig boost and over.
Also with laptop hooked up I can check the pump temp, amp draw, and boost pressure.

I know it is overkill but after seeing fuel flow vs voltage I'd wanted a more stability and no relay required (pump is the relay).

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

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