jdm_h22

So, I've thoroughly researched the dilemma I have & I'd still like to to get some opinions on my specific situation.

Just purchased the Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump. Very impressive specs. One of the highest flowing "O.E. replacement" pumps on the market.


Check out the current draw graph below:






Based on this graph, the pump may at times be drawing as much as 19amps...

Due to this, Aeromotive recommends upgrading to a dedicated fuel pump relay, along with 10-12 guage wire.


I bought this kit to alleviate that issue:






THIS IS MY DILEMMA:

I've run the upgraded AWG wiring all the way to the exterior of the pump. At this point I'm deling with a sealed transition into the fuel tank. What i've tentatively done is soldered my upgraded wire to the factor wire running into the tank, to the pump.

IS THIS DEFEATING THE PURPOSE OF HEAVY GAUGE WIRE??

Here's what I've done:






Allow me to throw another wrench in the gear...

Aeromotive provides a new connector to be used w/ the 340 pump. Very basic. O.E. Design.
I've installed it. Cut the old connector out. Solder/shrink wrapped the new.

Remember, Aeromotive recommends 10-12awg to the pump....

But I know the provided connector is NOT 10-12awg... what gives?






I guess all of this to say.. Is my installation adequate? Or should I consider a different setup?

Any input is appreciated.

jdm_h22

Some additional info:

I honestly don't think this pump will ever be drawing 19amps. This is why..
Based on the graph, 19amps is drawn @ 95psi.
I will NEVER require 95 psi of fuel pressure.


My setup is LSVtec turbo. I intend to make near 400whp on E85.
I've got ID1000 injectors and of course the Aeromotive 340.

That in mind, w/ th fuel volume this setup is capable of making, I honestly shouldn't have to increase fuel pressure over factory by much, right?

@ a conservative 50psi, the fuel pump should only draw roughly 14amps, and still easily provide the fuel I need.

That's not much more amperage than your basic Whinebro 255, which I've never had to upgrade wires for..

Just thinking out loud..
If there's ANY doubt that there will be issues, I'm going to be changing something.

The sweed

You need to ad your max boost pressure to your base pressure to se the highest pressure your pump will see. That is if you have a 1:1 fuelpressure regulator.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Use ohms law to verfify if you need to upgrade those wires at the pump.
I=E·R
Inductance(I) equals volatge(E) x resistance (R).

Or simply depin that pin from your connector and solder on a new wire 10 gauge whatever.
Each gauge of wiring has its own amp rating search online for those values.

jdm_h22

Any other input?


I did a little research and I think the oem wiring to a civic fuel pump is 18awg. This wire runs through the top of the fuel pump assembly through a special sealed port.

To avoid cutting holes in the assembly, I used this factory 18awg wire. So basically the upgraded wire is soldered to this 18awg, no more than a 6" length which then connects to the fuel pump.

Does anyone have experience w/ running a larger gauge wire through the top of the fuel pump assembly? Just seems sketchy to me. I've heard people drilling a hole and using silicone... :/

LS AzZkIkr

Just use some gold female connectors to the pump and use whatever gauge wire you want. I just rewired mine and once I have the connectors on the pump I used some HYperformer hot melt where the oem connector would go to ensure the leads never touch. Where did you get that relay kit from btw? Looks a lot cleaner than mine.

jdm_h22

Could you clarify how you got the lead IN to the fuel tank? You went through a hole and then used some sort of glue to seal it?

LS AzZkIkr

Yes I used the same hot melt to seal the holes up that where drilled into the pump hanger.

jdm_h22

This guy has the right idea...






Where to find these though.... insulated electrical bulkhead connectors.

LS AzZkIkr

Now that is interesting! Where did you get that relay kit from?

jdm_h22

It's actually a relay kit from Jeg's Performance website. Very good quality and cheap too!

jdm_h22

Ok never mind on the bulkheads... sourcing parts is such a headache sometimes. And price point is also key

Can you confirm the hot glue you used is fuel safe? As in the gas won't soften/eat it?

LS AzZkIkr

It hasn't yet and it's been 6months. It's the best hot melt I have come across in my field and I use it almost every day.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Check grainger or mcmaster carr they carry all that.

ESP.net

Correct me if I am wrong from what I have been told on the stealth 340 you should be able to use OEM wiring for upwards of 600 hp. I understand the Amp dilema but this is what I have gathered from people who sell these in the Honda world and have used them?

I have always been the type to just do enough and not overdue and overspend I like keeping things simple

This pump I plan to use to 550-600hp H23V 6266 all stock lines/filter/rail.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Since you'll never get up to 20 amps with that pump and a max of 268watts 10 gauge is the safest wire to go with but you could get away with 12gauge.

Its not going to matter who did what and this worked for so and so. Its physics its what the laws are they can't be broken. Your never going to know anyones exact situation when dealing with varying resistances and diffrent alternators. Run the 10 gauge and you'll never have to worry about it.

Edit I would change that 18 gauge wire to the pump to either 10 or the very least 12.
18 gauge is rated for. 10 amps your going to be at least at 14amps you don't want the insulation melting and shorting in your gas tank. Spark pls gas equals booom.

Garrett

All high flow aftermarket fuel pump need to be rewiring

PERIOD