need help on a sleeved block.
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need help on a sleeved block.
I bought a b18b1 bare block. the block is sleeved with benson light sleeves (so thats what the previous owner said) the problem is that one of the sleeves has some pretty bad scratches. the wrist pin came loos and scratched up the sleeve. the sleeves are in 81.00 mm bore. my question is can i buy only one sleeve? can i bore it out to say 84.00mm? I will have pics up tomorrow to help out.
btw its also missing one main cap. can i buy one from another block and install it without having any problems?
btw its also missing one main cap. can i buy one from another block and install it without having any problems?
#6
Re: need help on a sleeved block. (90 integra)
If you use a cap from another motor, you'll have to have it align bored and then align honed . They are machined on the block at the factory for that particular block, so you have to re-bore the mains before you align hone it.
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on the first and third pic you can see the scratches on both sides pretty deep.
on the last pic you can see the crack between the sleeves. thats how all of them are. is that normal or what?
on the last pic you can see the crack between the sleeves. thats how all of them are. is that normal or what?
#14
Re: (90 integra)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90 integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
on the last pic you can see the crack between the sleeves. thats how all of them are. is that normal or what?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cracks between the cylinders are very likely to cause a leak. We just had to repair and re-sleeve a block that came to us with a crack between the cylinders like that. Whoever installed the sleeves didn't do it right and cracked it. It looks like they welded in a guard and use thin wall repair sleeves. Boring it to 84 with a thin wall sleeve is pushing it.
on the last pic you can see the crack between the sleeves. thats how all of them are. is that normal or what?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cracks between the cylinders are very likely to cause a leak. We just had to repair and re-sleeve a block that came to us with a crack between the cylinders like that. Whoever installed the sleeves didn't do it right and cracked it. It looks like they welded in a guard and use thin wall repair sleeves. Boring it to 84 with a thin wall sleeve is pushing it.
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Re: (quickcarl)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rod. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry dont look no benson sleeves to me</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are Bensons,
...Daryl Benson that is. He installs these sleeves for $50 and a fifth of "Wild Turkey"
Those are Bensons,
...Daryl Benson that is. He installs these sleeves for $50 and a fifth of "Wild Turkey"
#18
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Re: (90 integra)
Take it to a good machine shop and have them measure the depth of the scratches. If they are less than .25mm deep, then you can probably get it bored .5mm over. I have a bore micrometer that I use to measure that, but it costs a few hundred dollars for a good one. Definitely get a second opinion from another machine shop, as I've used some machine shops that were really sharp and some that were nightmares. I'm running Darton sleeves at 84.5mm now, I had to go .5mm over my original 84mm bore after I melted my pistons and scratched up my sleeves.
If you don't have all of the original main caps, then you are kind of screwed. You will need to get it align bored/honed, which is a tricky operation on a B-series. I had a machine shop lose my main caps and give me my block back with some different ones, and it took some serious work to get it all straightened out again. RLZ hooked me up and the engine is running strong today, but they are one of just a couple of shops that I'd send that kind of work to. If you do send it to a machine shop, then be sure to mark every part that you send.
If you don't have all of the original main caps, then you are kind of screwed. You will need to get it align bored/honed, which is a tricky operation on a B-series. I had a machine shop lose my main caps and give me my block back with some different ones, and it took some serious work to get it all straightened out again. RLZ hooked me up and the engine is running strong today, but they are one of just a couple of shops that I'd send that kind of work to. If you do send it to a machine shop, then be sure to mark every part that you send.
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Re: (rmcdaniels)
are you sure it has been sleeved? look on the underside of the block and see if there is an actual sleeve installed in the block. Darton made some sleeves that look like stock sleeves. They are pretty strong.
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Re: (Stewie)
i just got my sleeved block back and they look similar to your sleeves. they hog out your stock sleeves as far as they can go then slide in new sleeves then add a block guard the guy who did mine has ran up to 36lbs with no prolem with these sleeves. i'd say sell me that block ill bore it out to 86mm and make it my NA block but im sure 84 mm will work just fine
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Re: (mattcivic)
do you guys not see the difference in craftsmanship between my block posted above and 90 integra's block?? clearly does not look benson style, and it really doesn't even look like anything other then stock sleeves with a swiss cheese block guard...
yeah dude, I also say sell it to mattcivic and get a clean benson block
it may work for NA but I wouldn't trust it with boost...
yeah dude, I also say sell it to mattcivic and get a clean benson block
it may work for NA but I wouldn't trust it with boost...
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thanx for all yall inputs and suggestions. i was planning on building a ls/vtec for another car i have but my whp goals are to reach the 260-275whp. but i guess im start all over again.
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