Heres the set up: 2000 SI, stock B16a, OBD1 harness adpt with stock P72,Drag gen 3 kit(t3/t4), vortech 12:1 FMU, Walbro 255 in-tank pump, NEW RC 310 injectors, V-AFC, boost gauge, Autometer A/F gauge with the Autometer O2 sensor kit, and fuel pressure in-car gauge. Running the 5psi spring in the wastegate. NO in-line fuel pump
When I'm full throttle in 2nd gear or on, and I'm reaching 6000 rpm the A/F gauge starts creeping back to the first section of leds on the stoich section(lean,stioch,rich). Getting uncomfortably close to lean. The fuel pressure gauge is pegged at 100psi(max reading). the higher the rpms, the closer it gets to lean.
Have tried richining up the fuel on the V-AFC but no help. Went as high as 40%+ and still creeped to Lean. Boost is on par and reads 5psi. The only thing I can think of is the fuel pump cant handle what the FMU is trrying to do to the fuel pressure. Does anyone think an in-line fuel pump might solve this? If you do, I have an extra MSD 2225 in-line fuel pump to use. Is this thing to big/small?? As of right now I am NOT running an in-line pump. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated



[Modified by b18cx, 3:53 AM 11/29/2002]

 

not sure about the inline...but a couple things: you should be nice and green, rich, under boost, not in the stoich section. also, i have a intake pump and cartech fmu running 5lbs fine (then again i have a t25)...i dont see why your car would be maxing out w/ all those fuel mods!?! bump for the poor guy


[Modified by spoon2, 10:53 AM 11/29/2002]

 

dont go by your a/f gauge, get on the dyo and find out for sure with a wideband .
more than likely your a/f is waaaaayyyyy off.

 

I have had some people p/m me saying the injectors are to small. They are RC 310. The same as found in the Greddy kit. Which runs 5psi. Are you guys saying I need to ditch the FMU and get the Greedy Blue Box?

 

ditch it and get some real fuel mgmt, i ve seen it time and time again, people spend more money trying all the different cheap ways, then they would have spent doing it right the first time. the best but still affordable way imo is the hondata s100 w/boost, talk to 2k_teg for great deals on them.

edit: and for real get it on a dyno, or at least somone's wibeband o2...

to give you an idea of how off the autometers are...when i was new to the game i used one for my n2o setup, i was using a 60 shot dry w/NO fuel changes at all, and it was reading rich. when i put a 75 pill in there it went sotich and lean for a second, and then rich again, still w/no fuel upgrades, the only thing i did was pull the vacume hose off the regulator...like i said though this was a while ago when i was new to things....heres the craziest part, it never blew, i ran it for 10-15k miles on it like that before i got rid of it!


[Modified by fastludeh22, 9:01 PM 11/29/2002]

 

The way you have it setup with an Intank pump, 12:1 fmu, and 310cc injectors you should definitely enough fuel coming in to compensate for the boost.

Where on your exhaust system did you weld in your extra O2 sensor for your A/F gauge?? Because if too fahr away from the turbo your going to get an inacurate reading..

Also here is another thing I would do before you go changing your setup go out to your car and do a full 3rd or 4th gear pull than take your spark plugs out and determine if your running rich or lean, than just report back and will go from there.

Adi

 

Have done a 2000 to 8000 pull in fourth (on the interstate at 2am) and the A/F gauge almost went into the red. Almost. Going to have the 02 relocated as close to the turbo tomarrow and see if that changes things. will keep you guys psoted.

and thanks for everyones help on this

 

Just a quick tip if you are going to relocate the sensor put it 2 inches away from the turbo on the downpipe.
Where is the sensor at currently??

By the way you should still do a pull and see what you plugs look like.

Adi

 

right now the o2 for the A/F gauge is located approx in the first factory location. The o2 for the car is located about 3-4 inches behind it, 45 degrees off the first.

 

Just went out and did a hard pull thou 3rd and 4th then immmediately went and pulled the plugs. They have a dark tan almost brown color with a little grey on the electrode. Look fine to me but then again this is my first turbo car.

 

You need an inline pump! Your intank won't hold the pressure supplied by the fmu.

 

By what your telling me it seems to as your running normal but that brown your talking about is it really a brown or is it redish brown because If you got that your running perfect. In good conditions your plugs should be be gray with a light red color to them..

By the way your setup right now a inline pump is totally unnecessary.
I personaly ran 15psi with a intank 255, 440cc, v-afc, 12:1 fmu this season and never had a problem, I would say for what your running right now setup wise you could go up to about 15psi safely but you would have to richen up your v-afc settings a lot up top..

One more thing I suggest you do is consider investing in a egt gauge sence it will give you a more acurate reading of how rich or lean your car is really running.

Adi


[Modified by newgsr, 5:05 AM 11/30/2002]

 

Yea I would say you need an inline fuel pump if you are going to keep the VAFC. I have the same setup as you, except I have an inline fuel pump, and I have no problems running lean at 18psi. I am gonna go with 720cc once I get my standalone though.

 

new info for the situation. For some reason I had a brain fart and checked the resistance of the RC 310 injectors. They all read 16.8 ohms. Took them out of the car and let them sit for a couple of hours and they read 16.5 ohms. The test sheet from RC states they are 12.0-12.3 ohm. ?????????????. Put the stock ODB2 B16A injectors back in and now my A/F gauge goes about 5-4 leds into the orange. Alot better than 1 led into the red. I'm calling RC tomarrow. Any thoughts on this

 

bump

 

Why do people write bump?