SoSlo

I plastiguaged the bearings on the main to .28mm which is right where i want them. when i first torqued the mains down the crank spun freely. then if i let it sit for like 30 seconds then it wont budge without like a breaker bar to get it started then it will again turn freely by hand.
i torqued qown the mains to teh 85ft/lbs that teh ARP main studs said to. that is also where i plastiguaged the bearings.


i have never had this happen and i am wondering what to check?? or if it is just the assembly lube? have you ever had this issue?

boostedcivicsir

bearings dry or assembly lube?
how much torque does it take to spin the engine freely?
if you are using a good assy lube it will be thick and that may be the way it is.

SoSlo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bearings dry or assembly lube?
how much torque does it take to spin the engine freely?
if you are using a good assy lube it will be thick and that may be the way it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the bearing are lubed with an assemblu lube.
the assembly lube is thick as hell
like i said i can continue to spin the crank while torquing all teh main bolts and i can continue to spin it until i just let it sit for like 30 seconds or so then it is like stuck without using a breaker bar to get it started spinning. once i get it spinning again then i can go back to spinning it freely with my hand.

this **** is weird as hell

EJ1 wilcox

If you can't budge it without a breaker bar then I'd think there's definately something wrong.

I've built engines with that really thick red assembly **** before, and even then I could turn the crank by hand.

Is it binding at all?

SoSlo

no it only freezes up when i stop moving it for like 30 seconds.

mattssi

I have had them like that before too... I think that it all depends on what the environment is like that you assembled the engine. I had a buddys engine that you could barely turn with a breaker bar and then we worked it and got it moving and once it was moving, it was easy. Let it sit and it would get stuck again. When the car was started the starter couldn't crank it over and we have to use the breaker bar and get the crank moving, then it started and ran great and never had another issue ?

hellakapps

i'd pull it back apart and check the bearings and crank for scaring, it's easier to do it now than after you put it all back together......that's weird though never had that problem, it'd make me nervous

SoSlo

ya it is making me hella nervous that is why i am asking if anyone has ever had this problem

DRAGLS

its most likely the thick assembly lube you are using. Its a common thing with tight bearing clearances and thick assembly lube.

agrn93ls

clean the lube, try it with motor oil and see what happens, if its ok use a lil less lube or something. sounds like its the ***. lube lol.

mattssi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoSlo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya it is making me hella nervous that is why i am asking if anyone has ever had this problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should be fine. It is most likely due to the type of thick lube you are using and the small clearances with the bearings.

PHDZINE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoSlo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I plastiguaged the bearings on the main to .28mm which is right where i want them. when i first torqued the mains down the crank spun freely. then if i let it sit for like 30 seconds then it wont budge without like a breaker bar to get it started then it will again turn freely by hand.
i torqued qown the mains to teh 85ft/lbs that teh ARP main studs said to. that is also where i plastiguaged the bearings.


i have never had this happen and i am wondering what to check?? or if it is just the assembly lube? have you ever had this issue?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
85ft/lbs for mains...thats alot of torque. I torque mine to factory spec. with ARP mains studs.
I dont us plasti gauge anymore either. Not even close to being accurate. Measure them out with the proper tools.

EK FLY

try to use oil this time ,see what happen

sewell94

You might have an issue with the mains being deformed by the arps.

The completed short block assembly should take 10-15lbs of torque to spin the engine over. Anymore than that and somethings not right, a piston hitting a squiter, wrong bearing clearance, somehting. Was the plastigage tapered when you went to check it, i've seen a machinest cut the caps when resizing the rods wrong and one side of the bearing have zero clearance and the other be within spec. Good luck

SoSlo

ya it is making me hella nervous that is why i am asking if anyone has ever had this problem

champLSinteg

make sure all the main caps are in the correct order. I just finished putting together my motor and the same thing happened to me exept it was when the rods where torqued down. I could turn it but if I let it sit for 30 seconds it would not turn. I kept checking and finally realized that two of the rod caps where switched. Everything would turn very easily afterwards. Please do not leave it the way you have it.

tepid1

You need to have the mains align honed when using aftermarket studs. The additional torquing distorts the main alignment and it is most likely causing some friction somewhere.

In short you are not suppose to use main studs without an alignment hone of the mains.