Need help diagnosising a problem!!!!!!
I have a b18b1 turbo on 10psi and I'm having a problem with it breaking up around 5500 and 6500 RPMS. It was running fine for a few months and after I did the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump I'm running into this problem.
I started off by making sure the timing was correct, and it is dead on. Ignition timing is perfect, put new NGK 1 step colder plugs gapped to .028, new ignition coil, new wires, the whole 9 yards. Now the problem seems to have lessened from before but its still breaking up at the range previously mentioned. I have tried adjusting the ignition timing on the dizzy. advancing it made it worse and retarding it seemed to help a little but it was still breaking up. I did notice this morning when you hit the higher RPM range the battery light was flashing, and upon further inspection I noticed the alt. belt was loose so I went ahead and replaced the belt and that issue seems to be resolved.
Im kind of at a loss here at what else to check, so any help is appreciated. I want to get this thing running right before its too late.
I started off by making sure the timing was correct, and it is dead on. Ignition timing is perfect, put new NGK 1 step colder plugs gapped to .028, new ignition coil, new wires, the whole 9 yards. Now the problem seems to have lessened from before but its still breaking up at the range previously mentioned. I have tried adjusting the ignition timing on the dizzy. advancing it made it worse and retarding it seemed to help a little but it was still breaking up. I did notice this morning when you hit the higher RPM range the battery light was flashing, and upon further inspection I noticed the alt. belt was loose so I went ahead and replaced the belt and that issue seems to be resolved.
Im kind of at a loss here at what else to check, so any help is appreciated. I want to get this thing running right before its too late.
if there was no problem before the tbelt replacement and now there is a problem then it has to do with that IMO. the cam timing much be off and the distributor should be resynced after a tbelt replcement
in my experience when i had a problem with a car breaking up in that high of a rpm it was due to the timing being retarded. so i had to advance the timing for it to clear up. just my .02
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Thats what i figured too but timing is perfect on the motor retarding the dizzy didnt really help broke up at 6000 a lil then cut out at 6500 im rarely get the revs this high but its the point thats its not right
stop moving the distributor before you blow it up
you cant just advance and retard the distributor. the distributor is for sync timing with the ecu. get a light on it and make sure your at 16 degrees if thats where your tune is at on idle and lock out the timing maps so yuo can set base ignition and recheck your timing marks. if you toucha motor and then have problems 99% of the time its the work you did to the motor. ill be the timing is off on the cams or crank.
you cant just advance and retard the distributor. the distributor is for sync timing with the ecu. get a light on it and make sure your at 16 degrees if thats where your tune is at on idle and lock out the timing maps so yuo can set base ignition and recheck your timing marks. if you toucha motor and then have problems 99% of the time its the work you did to the motor. ill be the timing is off on the cams or crank.
What i am thinking now is that it needs to be retuned. The timing on the motor is perfect i can assure you. I think the timing may have been off a little when it was tuned since i did not build the car. I got it then had It tuned and a few months later the water pump took a ****. So it may have been out of time when i got it. Looks like im dropping some more money at NRG
I have a 98 civic with a b18c turbo. When we started tuning the car it began to break up at higher boost levels at higher RPM. Eventually with everything we tried with the tune led to the car breaking up more and it making less and less power. I did 3 things.
1. gapped ngk 4554 plugs to .22in
2. bought and installed msd 6al box and external coil.
3. made overly large engine grounds (8ga)
I did those things in that order. When i got to making the grounds i found a loose ground on the transmission. After replacing the grounds with 2 8 gauge grounds the problem completely disappeared. I would recommended checking all your grounds first. Replace any that look bad or broken Also gapping plugs (i run 20 psi on .24 in gapped plugs currently with no problems) then possibly an msd 6al. P.s when i put my MSD box on i also switched to an external coil new cap, new rotor. I am pretty sure that i spent a lot of money that i may not have had to spend. I would recommend starting with the grounds. Especially if the problem began when you changed the timing belt. just my 2 cents. hope it helps Happy boosting.
1. gapped ngk 4554 plugs to .22in
2. bought and installed msd 6al box and external coil.
3. made overly large engine grounds (8ga)
I did those things in that order. When i got to making the grounds i found a loose ground on the transmission. After replacing the grounds with 2 8 gauge grounds the problem completely disappeared. I would recommended checking all your grounds first. Replace any that look bad or broken Also gapping plugs (i run 20 psi on .24 in gapped plugs currently with no problems) then possibly an msd 6al. P.s when i put my MSD box on i also switched to an external coil new cap, new rotor. I am pretty sure that i spent a lot of money that i may not have had to spend. I would recommend starting with the grounds. Especially if the problem began when you changed the timing belt. just my 2 cents. hope it helps Happy boosting.
Got the problem fixed figured I'd hop back on and give you guys an update. Turns out it was a bad transmission to chassis ground in my case as well. Made that and the valve cover ground with the 4 gauge wire and it back to normal! Thanks for all the help guys appreciate it.
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