my integra build
Okay guys it's been a while since I posted updates I awhile. I finally got it Repainted and tuned!! I tuned it myself. First time tuner. Here are the results. At 14psi I made 306hp and 260tq!! The a/f was 10.8 to 11.1 still needs some fine tuning. Revving to 7200rpm! Let me know what you think! The dyno picture is from the previous run. I added more timing and got a little more power ill put up more pictures later. I'm going to try and hit 400 in the near future as well. Just wanted to get my feet wet with the tuning and everything.
Haha yeah I know it's a little fat. But it was my first time tuning so I wanted to be a little on the concervitive side. When I tune it again for 400 ill be aiming for 11.5 or so. Thanks for the advice!
Here are some pictures I took a few weeks back after I repainted it! I have some videos from my phone of the dyno and a few pulls on the street I will post later.
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Car looks clean but I agree... lean it out!
You'll get better gas mileage all the way around not to mention make more hp and torque. I suggest getting to or as close as possible to 12:1... you'll notice a huge difference. Some even run 12.5:1 if they have a rock solid tune and motor
You'll get better gas mileage all the way around not to mention make more hp and torque. I suggest getting to or as close as possible to 12:1... you'll notice a huge difference. Some even run 12.5:1 if they have a rock solid tune and motor
Car looks clean but I agree... lean it out!
You'll get better gas mileage all the way around not to mention make more hp and torque. I suggest getting to or as close as possible to 12:1... you'll notice a huge difference. Some even run 12.5:1 if they have a rock solid tune and motor
You'll get better gas mileage all the way around not to mention make more hp and torque. I suggest getting to or as close as possible to 12:1... you'll notice a huge difference. Some even run 12.5:1 if they have a rock solid tune and motor
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,474
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Yea I wouldn't go retune the car just to make it leaner at the same boost level... it's a waste really, especially if the car runs fine like its tuned now
Smart move waiting to do it once, that way when you go to the dyno not only will you be tuning for more power but you'll know to tune it on the leaner side around 12:1 so really you're killing two birds with one stone and you're saving money by not wasting it on retuning just to make the current tune leaner if you're just going to turn around and up the boost and do a full retune anyway
But I must say you've picked a perfect combo for the exterior of the car. The carbon fiber trunk really contrasts the paint job and for some reason white wheels always look good on a red car, even though people say white on red is played out. If it were me I would get a carbon hood and potentially a carbon roof skin that just goes on with 3m adhesive. That would complete the carbon fiber look from the front to back and really set the color of the car off
Smart move waiting to do it once, that way when you go to the dyno not only will you be tuning for more power but you'll know to tune it on the leaner side around 12:1 so really you're killing two birds with one stone and you're saving money by not wasting it on retuning just to make the current tune leaner if you're just going to turn around and up the boost and do a full retune anyway
But I must say you've picked a perfect combo for the exterior of the car. The carbon fiber trunk really contrasts the paint job and for some reason white wheels always look good on a red car, even though people say white on red is played out. If it were me I would get a carbon hood and potentially a carbon roof skin that just goes on with 3m adhesive. That would complete the carbon fiber look from the front to back and really set the color of the car off
Yea I wouldn't go retune the car just to make it leaner at the same boost level... it's a waste really, especially if the car runs fine like its tuned now
Smart move waiting to do it once, that way when you go to the dyno not only will you be tuning for more power but you'll know to tune it on the leaner side around 12:1 so really you're killing two birds with one stone and you're saving money by not wasting it on retuning just to make the current tune leaner if you're just going to turn around and up the boost and do a full retune anyway
But I must say you've picked a perfect combo for the exterior of the car. The carbon fiber trunk really contrasts the paint job and for some reason white wheels always look good on a red car, even though people say white on red is played out. If it were me I would get a carbon hood and potentially a carbon roof skin that just goes on with 3m adhesive. That would complete the carbon fiber look from the front to back and really set the color of the car off
Smart move waiting to do it once, that way when you go to the dyno not only will you be tuning for more power but you'll know to tune it on the leaner side around 12:1 so really you're killing two birds with one stone and you're saving money by not wasting it on retuning just to make the current tune leaner if you're just going to turn around and up the boost and do a full retune anyway
But I must say you've picked a perfect combo for the exterior of the car. The carbon fiber trunk really contrasts the paint job and for some reason white wheels always look good on a red car, even though people say white on red is played out. If it were me I would get a carbon hood and potentially a carbon roof skin that just goes on with 3m adhesive. That would complete the carbon fiber look from the front to back and really set the color of the car off
Hey guys I decided I am going to parts ways with my integra, my family is moving to florida and I do not want to take it there. here is the craigslist ad.
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/4199339357.html
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/4199339357.html
Florida has very loose car laws. I see turbo diesels with stacks all the time doing 4 wheel burn outs and pouring smoke all over the road. I've seen a couple get pulling over, but that's besides the point. You can get by with just about anything down here. And the sea level thing is nice. But it gets hot. Very very hot.
Yes! It is lovely! Bring it with you and we can hang out!
Florida has very loose car laws. I see turbo diesels with stacks all the time doing 4 wheel burn outs and pouring smoke all over the road. I've seen a couple get pulling over, but that's besides the point. You can get by with just about anything down here. And the sea level thing is nice. But it gets hot. Very very hot.
Florida has very loose car laws. I see turbo diesels with stacks all the time doing 4 wheel burn outs and pouring smoke all over the road. I've seen a couple get pulling over, but that's besides the point. You can get by with just about anything down here. And the sea level thing is nice. But it gets hot. Very very hot.
I tuned it with just Crome. Timing on the distributor I set at 16 degrees then I adjusted timing accordingly with EGT's and plug conditions. Every pull I pulled all 4 plugs looked for color timing marks etc.
What EGT did you use? I have been looking at them here and there and want one for my tuning. Could you post/send me your map? I want to take a look at it. See what you did, check your total timing. I'm just getting my feet into tuning so I'm just exploring other people's work. Did you dyno or street tune? You didn't use any sort of knock sensor?
What EGT did you use? I have been looking at them here and there and want one for my tuning. Could you post/send me your map? I want to take a look at it. See what you did, check your total timing. I'm just getting my feet into tuning so I'm just exploring other people's work. Did you dyno or street tune? You didn't use any sort of knock sensor?
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,474
Likes: 10
From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Unless you're going to log EGTs with your EMS then you really can't keep track of them after each pull..
also, egt probe style and location are important... most egt probes that come with gauges have a covered junction, this makes the sensor slow to respond to temp changes (a few seconds at best) I use exposed junction probes which respond in milliseconds and are much better to keep track of EGT vs load and rpm than the slow responding covered probes.
also, if you put it at the manifold collector, you get a general temp reading.. not ideal. cylinder 3 runs the hottest so most people put it a few inches from the exhaust port on that runner. However, EGTs can vary widely between cylinders due to injector flow differences, pressure pulses in the fuel rail, intake plenum air distribution, spark plug health, spark energy, how clean/smooth the combustion event happened, etc.
to really use EGT to tune you need to have a probe in all 4 manifold runners
also, egt probe style and location are important... most egt probes that come with gauges have a covered junction, this makes the sensor slow to respond to temp changes (a few seconds at best) I use exposed junction probes which respond in milliseconds and are much better to keep track of EGT vs load and rpm than the slow responding covered probes.
also, if you put it at the manifold collector, you get a general temp reading.. not ideal. cylinder 3 runs the hottest so most people put it a few inches from the exhaust port on that runner. However, EGTs can vary widely between cylinders due to injector flow differences, pressure pulses in the fuel rail, intake plenum air distribution, spark plug health, spark energy, how clean/smooth the combustion event happened, etc.
to really use EGT to tune you need to have a probe in all 4 manifold runners
Unless you're going to log EGTs with your EMS then you really can't keep track of them after each pull..
also, egt probe style and location are important... most egt probes that come with gauges have a covered junction, this makes the sensor slow to respond to temp changes (a few seconds at best) I use exposed junction probes which respond in milliseconds and are much better to keep track of EGT vs load and rpm than the slow responding covered probes.
also, if you put it at the manifold collector, you get a general temp reading.. not ideal. cylinder 3 runs the hottest so most people put it a few inches from the exhaust port on that runner. However, EGTs can vary widely between cylinders due to injector flow differences, pressure pulses in the fuel rail, intake plenum air distribution, spark plug health, spark energy, how clean/smooth the combustion event happened, etc.
to really use EGT to tune you need to have a probe in all 4 manifold runners
also, egt probe style and location are important... most egt probes that come with gauges have a covered junction, this makes the sensor slow to respond to temp changes (a few seconds at best) I use exposed junction probes which respond in milliseconds and are much better to keep track of EGT vs load and rpm than the slow responding covered probes.
also, if you put it at the manifold collector, you get a general temp reading.. not ideal. cylinder 3 runs the hottest so most people put it a few inches from the exhaust port on that runner. However, EGTs can vary widely between cylinders due to injector flow differences, pressure pulses in the fuel rail, intake plenum air distribution, spark plug health, spark energy, how clean/smooth the combustion event happened, etc.
to really use EGT to tune you need to have a probe in all 4 manifold runners
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