Spoolin-H22

Well ill start with a little backround, ive owned my 4th gen lude for the past 4 years. Bought it as a super clean, bone stock srv when i was 17. And who doesnt want a turbo. Everyone slaps their lips with how their gonna turbo their car, so i didnt wanna just be a talker so i started with buying another vehicle so i could do this correctly.

Phase 1 reading.
I never knew anyone with a turbo anything. Up here in saskatchewan Canada their isnt much for imports. So figured what parts i needed and what they did. How to size a turbo, purpose of your wastegate, bov, map sensor, wideband O2 etc.

Phase 2
Deciding on a power goal. My dad has got a few vehicles and i knew i wanted to blow him out of the water. 500ish i figured would do it.

Phase 3
Beginning the build.

Fuel:
I.D 1000 injectors
Aem high flow fuel rail
Aem adj. fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 255 fuel pump w/ hotwire kit
Stock feed and return line size

The Head
H22a4 head- wasnt my first choice wanted to use the h22a head that came with the block i purchased but machine shop advised against using that one do to some bad valve seats?
Ferrea head package
Stock size valves
Guides
Seals
Titanium springs
Locks

Aem tru-time adj. cam gears
Stock jdm h22a cams
Egr delete
And of course a pnp job and 0.010 off the head.

Turbo set up

T3 gt35r 1.06ar single ball bearing water cooled w/ oil restrictor
Blue ridge motor sports top mount manifold
44mm tial waste gate
Custom 3" stainless steel cut and weld down pipe. Full 3" stainless exhaust mandrel bent no cat or res just a high flow magnaflow muffler.
2.5" ic piping also custom made to be as short as possible.
Cant remember dimensions of ic core but fairly large 3" thick with 3" inlet and outlet.

The block
94 h22a closed deck
Ks tuned timing belt tensioner
Ks tuned balance shaft eliminator in brand new oem oil pump
New gates timing belt
New oem water pump
Balanced oem crank
New acl main bearings
New acl rod bearings
Eagle H beam rods
Mahle 9-1 pistons **

Misc.
cometic head gasket
New oil pan with silver soldered -16 oil return fitting
Aem wide band with bosch sensor
Aem water temp gauge
Aem oil pressure gauge
Aem boost gauge
Autometer gps speedo
Autometer 10 000rpm tach
Autometer adj. fuel gauge
Autometer volt meter
Rywire custom harness
(Yes the interior was stripped along with all the wiring in the whole car)
Alternator relocation with homemade tensioner
Aem dry flow filter
Willwood adj. prop valve with all new steel braided tucked lines
Tokico adj. struts
All new ball joints, wheel bearings, wheel studs.
Stage 4 dss axles
Hondata s300
8.9lbs flywheel
Bisimoto 500hp clutch (which let go on the dyno after the motor break in. 430whp 440 ft/lbs at 5200rpm and 14psi)
Now have a cc twin disc w/ pedal stop

1st stock trans let go just before i did the clutch.

Theirs lots more into this car which im sure i forgot. But the main reason for joining is to share some info on the mahle pistons i chose.

Motor was 1st started on the dyno by a reputible tuner. Running a little rich 12.5-1 only 4psi and limited to 5000rpm (240whp) Broke the motor in for 3000km before i went back to turn up the boost.

After switching to the cc twin dic and did a 500mile break in on it i finally finally finally got to turn the boost up to 22psi and rev to a modest 8000rpm.

When building the block it was between sleeving or using the gold series mahle's. i went with the mahles because no one would say how they held up under decent boost. And i figured if they lasted a summer or two thatd be great. So less than 500km of 22psi and their done. Rings are gone and im sure the pistons are fucked. Will know more when i pull the head off next week (moving provinces atm)

So NO to anyone trying to boost mahle pistons past 300hp.

snobordboy

Sounds like a neat car, unfortunate about the pistons. Most people would suggest just going with a sleeved block at that power goal, but Mahles can work......

If the machine shop installs them PERFECTLY. Tolerances have to be spot on, hone has to be done right, and most shops don't have the patience for FRM, or many times the right equipment to even do it properly.

Would love to see some pictures of the car as well, and what province are you moving to?

Wdpfreak145

Looks like you did your homework. Unfortunate luck though. Post pics! Build threads are always more enjoyable with them.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

As far as the head, any competent machine shop can replace valve seats. they aren't that expensive and if that's the head you want to use then tell them to replace the seats.

if they say no or act all sketchy and avoiding then they probably don't know how to do it or know what they're doing at all which means you need to find a new shop.