^thanks for the input you two directly above. im well aware the non vtec heads will not flow as much as a vtec head. its common sense since vtec is designed to increase the flow.... but if you read post #1 it states i chose this route for a reason. i personally just wanted to go with a non vtec build and if im not happy i can always switch later on.

and again with the rpm talk about throwin rockers at high rpm its been stated numerous times im not planning on spinning this motor to 11k rpms more like 7 to maybe 8k. a stroker kit is not meant for crazy revs its meant for low end torque which is what im after. im wanting a really good torque curve.

so please for the sake of anything if your going to come into someones build thread and leave posts about "oh shoulda went vtec cause the non vtec heads dont flow dick" atleast read the whole thread since i stated i chose this route for my own reasons. thank you.

 

Very nice build

 

Very nice so far. I can't wait to see the dyne results

 

+1, keep up the good work

 

definatly interested in seeing some #s....

 

Thanks for the support guys.

Actually have some good news, got on hr block today to use their tax calculator and if its even remotely close I should have the money to finish this build up and post up what it makes. Im keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Awesome build! Do you have any trick suspension plans to put the torque to the ground?

 

thanks. and prob be running a decent set of coilovers, full race traction bar, and skunk 2 lcas. havent really been planning much on the suspension part yet other than coilovers and traction bars. main focus is to get the engine done and go from there.

 

so i need some technical input. im sitting here trying to figure out what all fittings i will need for the fest of my fuel setup and im really confusing myself.

what i plan on doing if it will work is running the fb dual pump hanger which has a -10an fuel line and a -8an return. i want to run this to my aem fuel filter housing, to my aem fuel rail which is -6an, and unsure of the size that goes in the rail whether it be 5/8 or 3/4. from my aem regulator unsure of size, back to the -8an return on the dual hanger.

can someone please give me a list of fittings i will need as it is confusing the **** out of me or tell me if it will even work. if i run a -10an hose end off the pump hanger up to the filter which i believe is -6an, do they even make an adapter or would i have to run a -10 hose end an fitting into a -10 an to __ npt fitting? and from there an __ npt fitting to -6an, then a -6an hose end to a-6an hose end to a -6an/__npt fitting into fuel rail. then from the fpr whatever npt size that is to -6an, then a -6an hose end to a -6an hose end to a -6an male to -8an female adapter or is there such a thing?

hope i didnt confuse you like im doing so to myself but i seriously need help with the fuel system fittings i only want to buy enough fittings to do this since they are expensive and dont want to do trial and error here.

 

fwd + buttloads torque = lot's of useless wheelspin

put that engine in the back of any car, making it mid engined, and it's genious

 

thats some spec man be a beast best of luck with it now ill be watching this space

 

looking very good
continue with the good work!!!!

 

Thanks guys.

its slow going right now as im working on getting the funds to buy my injectors and have the head ported. i also need to get the block prepped and then it should start taking off from there. hopefully i can get my injectors first part of march. im getting my yearly bonus from my work which will be $2400 and using that to pay off the evo. that will save me $400 a month so theres no excuse for it not to be finished by summer.

tonight i was bored and decided to go ahead and drill the valve cover for the catch can setup. well... i think i f****d the valve cover up but hopefully someone can tell me if its salvageable.

i started with a very small bit and was working my way up to half inch. there is very little room and half of the hole is right at the line where the baffle is. the very last bit and the last hole i had to drill is when it happened of course. go figure. basically there is maybe 4mm of space between the wall of the valvecover and the baffle and i was trying to just go through without hitting the baffle. well the bit caught the edge of the baffle and basically tore it down. it didnt tear it down alot just enough to make me worry. i can see a piece of metal stuck in there so i know smaller shavings more than likely got in there. here is a pic to better show what im talking about



the only thing i can think of besides scrapping the valve cover and picking up another one and trying again or having it done is to drill out all the rivets holding the baffle on. once i do that the main thing is putting the baffle back in. wouldnt i have to do that since oil could spray into the catch can lines and basically defeat the purpose? what do you guys suggest?

 

maybe this pic is a little clearer

 

you will provably wan to remove the baffle in that area using a cut off wheel or dremel and then weld on a little extra metal so that the oil doesn't have a straight shot into the vent tube like it does now.

 

i ended up removing the baffle completely. what i plan to do is baffle only around the holes and the stock breather coming of the back to keep oil from entering.

new update guys. finally got my bonus check from work a couple of weeks ago. THE EVO IS PAID OFF FINALLY. this means $370 a month extra will be saved without a payment, my insurance also dropped 13 dollars and im fixing to start looking for a better/cheaper company to save even more.

the head for my honda has FINALLY been sent off to be p&p and machined. in the end i decided to go with portflow and im having them install bronze guides and assemble using all of my valvetrain. im also having them open the chambers up to 84.5mm. it should get there tuesday i think, and i will add pics once i get it back in a couple of weeks. im super pumped since that was defiantely the last major thing needing to be done. all i need now is to buy injectors, timing belt, and a few other misc things. hopefully the car will be done this spring/early summer

 

been a while since updating. well the summer came and went and i havent done much more since the last post. reason being is i have picked up another full time job and now work 7 days a week. money isnt tight anymore though. i received the head back about three weeks after my last post about it being sent off. it looked amazing as i knew it would.










also had i have even better news... the block was taken to the machine shop and all prep work was done as well as assembly.




they did end up having to notch the bottom of the cylinders for rod clearancing for this stroker kit. they also used a die grinder and smoothed the casting marks for better oil control.

i also picked up my fuel injectors as well, 1650cc fic's from maperformance.com. they are well known and specialize in evo's but carry parts for other cars as well. and last update but not least was i got an engine stand to begin assembly. im done buying parts besides things like seals, fuel lines, tensioner, and other misc stuff! next update will contain pics of engine being assembled. this spring, FOR SURE, it will run.

 

nice build love the stroker ls

 

sweet! always wanted to build a 2.2l stroker B. Come on man get that motor together! lets see it run! in for tq figures. Portflow was a good choice! Id go with a biger throtle body at least a 70mm.

 

BIGGEST UPDATE YET! Im excited to finally post this. The motor has finally started to be assembled. A friend and I started to assemble the engine yesterday as i finally bought an engine stand. The good news is that the bottom end is fully assembled and ready to go. but i do have bad news. First off, the headgasket that i ordered a few years ago for this build is the wrong one. the rivets that hold the layers together do not hang over the edge in the front of the motor. on the back side they are fine. i called dart and had them give me an exact part number for the gasket i will need so there is no more confusion, and it has been ordered and will be here by the end of this week. he told me i could still use the gasket i have but i would need to machine nothces out of the deck surface for the rivets to sit in, but since this block cost me $2600 i think i will gladly pay another $100 for a new gasket lol. We also encountered another problem, a more potential bigger problem. when i removed my timing gear from the old engine we did not have to use a pulley puller. when we went to put it on the new crower lightweight stroker crank it did not seem to want to go on as smoothly. we tried heating it with a torch and tapping it on but didnt try to excessively hard for fear of damaging something. i called brian crower today and they suggested i mic the crank end and call them back so i have another friend coming this week with a micrometer to help me out since i dont have access to one. fingers crossed that nothing is wrong with this crank, because they will more than likely not exchange it since it has been installed and i bought it like 3 years ago, but we shall see. i also had to order a timing belt tensioner assembly from the dealer today, and picked up the recommended gates t-294 ford focus timing belt that is to be used on this tall deck block.

before i post any pics of my progress, i want to take the time to recommend NOT buying a dart block. for $2600 it is too much work, hassle, and headache involved. i started off by installing the water pump, t-stat housing, and water line. when installing the water pump, one of the bolt holes seemed to not be machined deep enough in the block itself. now it has been a while since i took the motor apart, and i knew it would be a while before it went back together when i was disassembling the engine. i took special care to zip lock baggie everything and label on the bag what it went to, so the bolts are where they are suppose to be so i know the problem is with the block itself. i figured it wasnt a big deal so i continued on. i got to the oil pump, and on it there were 2 more bolt holes that just were not machined deep enough. since liquid gasket had already been applied i sourced two lockwashers and put them on just to secure it tight enough for the time being until it dries and i can get a few more shorter bolts to go in the three holes that were not machined deep enough. the problems didnt stop there. when we went to put on the rear main cover, one edge of the block was keeping the alignment pins from going in. i meant to take pics but i forgot to. the solution wasnt very hard, but in my eyes for $2600 i shouldnt have had to take a dremel to my rear cover and grind away a bit of the edge where the oil pan bolts to in the corner where the block meets the cover, and the pan meets the cover and block. I just think dart could do a better job on these before making someone pay $2600 and it still need all the prep work, and minor things that if a shop were putting it together would charge you extra for.

ON TO THE PICS



picked this F****R up by myself, and pulled something in my back getting it on the stand, but the show must go on. My friend arrived to help soon after, GO FIGURE, once the heavy lifting was done. remember this is no ordinary aluminum block. it weighs about twice the weight of a stock block due to its thicker design, sold deck, and 1" billet steel mains. IT WAS HEAVY AS HELL.



water pump, t-stat housing, water line, rear mount (hasport), and driver side mount (hasport), and mugen thermostat installed



alternator and freshly polished chrome brackets installed. kind of cliche that the 400hp car sitting behind this motor will soon be slower than A HONDUH.



same as before just flipped over ready for moroso oil pickup, baffle, rear main cover, toga high volume oil pump, and moroso oil pan.



arp head studs are in.



moroso oil pickup, and baffle installed and checked for rod bolt clearance. i will say this it is pretty close. i also forgot to mention in the above paragraph about how poorly the blocks are made, that the baffle had trouble fitting as well. on the rear side and backside of the motor the baffle kind of turns down, well it was sitting on the lip of the block and needed to be bent up flat to lay down like it should. nothing major just a small piece of the lip needed to be flattened out.



another angle, toga high volume oil pump now installed as well. had a little trouble getting this on since the crank seal comes already installed in this, and the spring kept wanting to pop out from the lip.



rear main seal and cover on along with the oil pan gasket along with a thumbs up on building a 25k dollar honda engine after waiting for 7+ years lol.



moroso oil pan finally going on sealing up the bottom end. fluidampr crank pulley sitting in the floor ready to go on, and the we ran into the problems so we called it a night.



and here is how it sits as of now. the tensioner assembly should be here in the next couple of days and the right HG should be in before the end of the week. i was highly dissappointed that the gasket was wrong since im looking forward to getting the head installed and the turbo setup mounted on the engine. it should really look good on the stand and give me that much more motivation to get it in the car and get it out on the road. STAY TUNED WE ARE JUST GETTING STARTED!!! MORE UPDATES WHEN THE HEAD GASKET COMES IN!!!

 

Nice ive got a 400 hp evo too. And im building a honda too

 

I want a dart tall deck so bad... jelly

 

Beautiful build!! awesome job

 

UPDATE!!

Wantboost you do not want a dart block, TRUST ME.

as much as i hate to say, ive had more difficulties with this block and im sorry to say but for $2600 they did a **** poor job on this block.

i finally got the tensioner, HG, cylinder head dowel pins, and other things i needed. i started by replacing the bolts that were too long (from where dart cant machine a hole deep enough) and put a little shorter bolt in the place of the factory ones, no big deal. i went to install the tensioner and the new block came with a new spring perch (where the tensioner spring goes around) and well it was put on from dart IN THE WRONG SPOT. go figure. so i had to remove it and put it where it needed to be. when i went to put the tensioner pulley on GUESS WHAT!!!!! THE BOLT HOLE WASNT DEEP ENOUGH!!!! Since removing the washer off of the bolt isnt an option, i simply used a dremel and cutoff wheel to shorten the bolt by about 1/8th of an inch. i may end up needing to shorten it a little more to be sure its actually torquing the pulley to the right 40lbs.

once that was done i went on to mic the crank end and gear. 1.1015 on both so i was comfortable enough to use a little more force to get it on. i used a mallet and wood until the gear was flash with the crank, and then a socket for the rest of the way. all it needed was a little oil and a few gentle taps and it was on.

the head gasket arrived the next day along with the cylinder head dowel pins. so... the head gasket is listed as a b16a vtec 85mm head gasket. it lines up perfectly with the block, except for the cylinder head dowl pin holes. the block is machined in the front and back (exhaust & intake side) for dowl pins. in the ls head, they can only go in the rear (intake side). but the headgasket has them in the front, so im assuming, since ive never had a b16 head in front of me, that in a vtec head the alignment dowels go in front. i called dart back the following day and that is the only hg they recommend from dart. i explained what was going on and the guy said i could use a drill or dremel and carefully open up the holes since only the stud goes through them in the back and that would work. that is what i have done to the gasket. i barely opend the holes large enough to get the dowel pin through but still be snug as a bug in a rug lol. both holes are still within the embosments of the gasket itself so it SHOULD still be good to use. if anyone else suggest doing something different or has a suggestion or knows of the exact gasket i should be using pleae let me know.

yesterday i took off work early because my girl gave me a christmas gift early. she took me to see two of my favorite bands Asking Alexandria and As I Lay Dying. before though i got to work on the motor for a bit, but didnt accomplish much. i torqued the head down finally, re installed all of the manifold studs, put on the hondata intake gasket, skunk 2 manifold, edelbrock throttle body, full race manifold, the turbo and wg as well. i didnt get as much done due to having to go to the parts store for more nuts 3 times since i got the wrong ones the first 2 times like an idiot.

i then put in the rockers, and went ahead and lined the cam journals with assembly lube and the tops of the rockers as well, and installed the cam seal. i then covered the motor up for the day, went and partied my *** off at the concert. i was planning on going today and finishing the build up as much as possible but was still feeling like ****. my neck hurts like something else, and one ear is still ringing and feeling like its clogged up from how loud it was. i think i may be getting too old for that kinda **** lol. i did get a lot more pics, unfortunately the cord to upload them from my phone is in my girls car and i dont feel like getting off my *** as i type this and going out in the cold to get it, SO my next update will contain the most recent pics and whatever else i get done when i get the time to do it. thats it for now, stay tuned.

 

We all know that dart blocks take some refinement