havent updated this in awhile for several reasons. with the current economy money is hard to come by as we all know. with the addition of christmas and a few set backs happening with my daily driver (my evolution) including the radiator cracking, which i replaced with a koyo aluminum one which set me back $400+ and now a spark plug wire breaking, which was $100 from the dealer for both of them, i havent yet been able to save the funds for the head work.

i was planning on getting the head ported when tax money came in, but it looks like that wont be happening either since the evo is showing wire through the tread. and with it being awd all 4 tires need replacing at the same time or you risk damaging the drivetrain. what i figured since tires are already going to be around 1k i may as well go ahead and buy rims too for it and get a deal on tires since most places offer deals on combos.

what im debating on doing is saving up for my injectors that i need and fuel pump, and going ahead and putting the motor together without the port work. any suggestions? should i just wait and save to do the port work before or will it really effect the performance and limit my goals? i think im setting a ht record on the longest build yet since its going on 5+ years now since before i was even a member lol.

 

Nice looking build. WOW Dart block very very nice. For your HP goals and the fact you are using the poor flowing PR4 head I would yes wait and do the head work. If you had a Vtec head it would not hurt as much not to do port work. Also the fact the you are running a 2.2L stroker motor that will want and need to breath. Fuel pumps are cheap, $100 for a 255lph, for your goal a dual setup in tank will supply more than enough fuel and be inexpensive. BE sure to upgrade the fuel supply line and return line for the added flow volume and needs.

 

Thanks. And i have decided to wait until i get the head ported. ive came this far and dont want to cut any corners.

your recommendation of a double pumper walbro i have also been back and fourth between. i have debated on getting an aeromotive inline or a walbro. i figured with the cost of the double hanger and walbro it would be about the same as an inline a1000.

and thanks for reminding me of the upgraded lines. i read that needed to be done somewhere here on ht a while back when planning my build.

 

Sick build ! ! Good luck with it ! !

Do you fancy posting some more pictures of that dart block up ? The block its self still needs some machine work from new doesn't it ?

 

I would say go with the dual walbros instead of an inline.

 

i can soon as i get the time rich777. are you wanting pics from the deck side of it?

and yes unfortunately they do not do the final hone or prep work to the block for several reasons like final clearances. there is also quite a bit of casting that needs smoothing out to help with draining the oil back to the pan and in the water and oil pump housings. you also have to align hone the mains and they do not install the freeze plugs.

 

 

sorry about the crappy quality cell phone pics its all i have as of now.

and before anyone states the obvious that the one cylinder has what looks like nicks and dings its only small pieces of styrofoam packing material clinging to the cylinder.

rich ill try and locate the email i received from dart about all of the prep work to be more specific but im pretty sure what i mentioned before is all that needs to be done besides using a torque plate on the final hone to make sure the sleeves are set and settled or whatever its called.

 

nice build thread I love the room full of parts haha

 

^thanks. the girlfriend hates it though, but i kind of have no where else to put all of the stuff lol

 

the block needs to have sleeves seated, bored hone, with deck plate,alignhone, threads chased, some oil galleys cleaned up...

 

No problem, thanks for the pictures

To be honest i missed what you said before so i'll go back and take a look. I know Endyn do a bit of prep work to them but i'm not sure what.

EDIT: Just read back through this page, thats quite a lot of work isn't it considering you pay so much for them ? I thought the mains would of been pre line honed and all excess castings removed at least. Saying that though they are one bad ***, bomb proof block. I doubt you'd ever crack one of there sleeves lol !!!

 

You would think for 2400 dollars. They would do all of the prep work for you but they don't. And pretty much what cibao2ner said is what the email they sent me said. It is alot of work but alot of it can be done yourself like cleaning the casting marks with a dremel. I think I was quoted 500 for my local machine shop to clean it and perform all the above.

 

Thats not a bad price you was quoted. Make sure all honing/boring is done on the right equipment though. To keep thing straight forward you go wrong with "Sunnen equipment" (you may already know this though).

 

mmmm dart block

 

good looking build you have there!!

 

got some new parts in today. actually one of the bigger things i needed to finish up the build.



FB dual pump hanger thanks to JJautowerks. i actually got lucky finding this since i wasnt looking for one on the for sale section in particular, i was just browsing.

heres a dilema i need some input on though. i had already bought a walbro 255 for my car about a year ago and its been sitting so i decided to go ahead and put it on the hanger. well i remembered last summer i replaced the fuel pump in my evolution with a walbro 255. now when i pulled what i thought was the stock pump out of the evo to my surprise the previous owner already had one installed.

so my question is would that walbro 255 work for my honda. the only differences i seen so far is the honda is stamped gss341 and the evo pump is stamped gss342. also i noticed that the evo pump has a pressure release valve on the top and the honda one does not. the only other two differences are that the plastic tab the retaining ring that holds the filter on is opposite on the two and the evo fuel pump uses a square filter and not a rectangular filter. could i just buy a honda install kit and use the filter? honestly the fact the filters mount direct opposite would be a good thing if the pump will work because it will place them further apart and have less chance of one of the pumps taking fuel from the other. what do you guys think?

 

I'd say it would be fine providing you can get it to fit correctly. I can't really see a reason why i'd say no. A fuel pumps a fuel pump at the end of the day... There not a complex component.

 

it fits perfect as shown in the pic. i cant remember if its the top or bottom pump in the pic. the only difference is the fuel filter point is opposite. so like the one filter is behind both of the pumps, when i put a filter on the other it will be the same except in front of the pumps of that pic if that makes sense.

i guess what the question should have been was will there be any interference with the filters if mounted that way with the tank and if so will it really matter? the only thing ive found is that the filters shouldnt overlap or be relatively close since they can take fuel from the other pump.

 

i have a dart too im selling all the work already done by endyn...and finished assembly by nrg tech....i spent over 6k on my block alone...which im selling by the way if anyone is interested...1000whp spec..

 

thats a great dual pump kit but kinda spendy... I was just gonaa go with walbro 400lph and bosch inline that should provide more than enough fuel when I switch to E85 good luck wiht the build! what are your goals?

 

my goals are only around 650 to the wheels and im really focusing more on the torque thats why i went with a 2.2l kit. hondas generally dont make high torque and with this being a non vtec build its suffering even more i would really like to see over 450ft lbs or more but we shall see. and thanks.

 

i think a nonvtec head will make more lowend torque than a vtec head...they are design for low end driving....look at the crappy vw 8v engines...they make more torque than hp when boosted...

 

using a non-vtec head...well, it's just a waste. they don't flow dick compared to the vtec heads...and you're rev limited compared to the vtec heads as well

 

^^ Yep yep. The non Vtec port castings are much smaller as are the valves and combustion chamber. The P8R head is the best of the non Vtec heads with bigger Vtec sized intake valves which puts is far above the PR4 and P75 heads. Also all non Vtec heads have the same rocker arm design which is known to throw rockers at high rpms, even with a fully built valve train. This is not possible with the rocker arm design on a Vtec head.