Hey guys,
I have been meticulously building my h22a1 for turbo for about 6 months now, mainly due to money shortage . However, the reason I am building it is because I had it turbo'd for 2 days on stock block and blew a headgasket. I still haven't determined whether the issue was turbo related or not, or whether it was just an age issue (although the motor had only 60k miles on it) Anyways, I will be doing the reassembly as soon as the parts come back from the machine shop and I was wondering if anybody had any good write-ups or tips for me possibly that could help me in making this motor run well and reliably, as now I am a little scared because of my first experience and how it was so short. Anyways, my setup is as follows:
Golden Eagle stock bore sleeves
JE 9.0:1 pistons
Eagle rods
JE piston rings
Honda OEM main and rod bearings
H23 manual timing belt tensioner conversion
Stock head
cometic headgasket
ARP head studs
Precision injectors
etc.
If anybody needs any more information about my setup or whatever, just ask. I would like to make this build as smooth as possible. Thanks a lot, I appreciate any and all help.

Max

 

helms

 

on eagle rods, you may have to chamfer the journal ends. The ship them squared off, and on mine i had to grind them on a 45 degree angle. I had the whole bottom end done and the crank wouldn't spin b/c of this. You may run into the same issue. Other then that is should be pretty smooth, basic assembly. Just double check all clearances and specs and make sure everything is good before you start.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2001accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on eagle rods, you may have to chamfer the journal ends. The ship them squared off, and on mine i had to grind them on a 45 degree angle. I had the whole bottom end done and the crank wouldn't spin b/c of this. You may run into the same issue. Other then that is should be pretty smooth, basic assembly. Just double check all clearances and specs and make sure everything is good before you start.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Awesome advice. Another question in addition to my first one, is it necessary to have the head zyglowed? (or checked for cracks?)

 

i would have the head, and block checked before you even waste your time/money rebuilding it. Also have both decked to insure there is no warpage of either.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2001accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would have the head, and block checked before you even waste your time/money rebuilding it. Also have both decked to insure there is no warpage of either.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, the block got checked over at golden eagle so I will have my head checked and decked, any more suggestions about assembly are welcome! Thanks thus far guys!

 

depending on what your plans are Hp wise, make sure you have enough clearance in the bearings. The higher the hp and rpm the more heat and force so you need extra clearances in the bearings. Good rule of thumb is .001 for every inch in diameter. For example the rods are 1.89" so would need .015-.019 or so in clearance. HOnda clearances are extremely tight so just check to make sure you have a little extra in there. DOn't want to spin a bearing on a brand new motor I just finished my h22a4 build a couple of months ago, so if you need any help during the build process just PM, or email me. Stuck mine on a engine dyno for setting up before it goes in the car and thus far 742 fhp @ 15 psi, and no NOS.....YET!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2001accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depending on what your plans are Hp wise, make sure you have enough clearance in the bearings. The higher the hp and rpm the more heat and force so you need extra clearances in the bearings. Good rule of thumb is .001 for every inch in diameter. For example the rods are 1.89" so would need .015-.019 or so in clearance. HOnda clearances are extremely tight so just check to make sure you have a little extra in there. DOn't want to spin a bearing on a brand new motor I just finished my h22a4 build a couple of months ago, so if you need any help during the build process just PM, or email me. Stuck mine on a engine dyno for setting up before it goes in the car and thus far 742 fhp @ 15 psi, and no NOS.....YET!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good advice, I may let the machine shop assemble part of the bottom end, as I don't have access to every necessary tool, and I do not want to cut corners. I am actually shooting for higher numbers as well, somewhere around drag-accord's setup, but we'll see... Mostly I would like around 400whp but would like to have the ability to boost up to around 500-600whp.

 

good luck, and just contact me with any questions you may have or problems you may come across. Also make sure you get a oil pump gear (prodrive/circuit works). Honda ones basically explode under high hp motors, and a timing belt as well b/c stock ones can snap (greddy, power enterprises, etc)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2001accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good luck, and just contact me with any questions you may have or problems you may come across. Also make sure you get a oil pump gear (prodrive/circuit works). Honda ones basically explode under high hp motors, and a timing belt as well b/c stock ones can snap (greddy, power enterprises, etc) </TD></TR></TABLE>
I definitely will, thanks very much. I won't be actually assembling for a month or two because of money, but I will let you know how things go. thanks guys!
BTW: any other suggestions still welcome!