More Nitrous
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Toronto, Canada, Canada
Re: (Cyphear)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cyphear »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard ring gap is supposed to be different on N20 motors... is this true? and why?</TD></TR></TABLE>
cause RA166E says so, read up abit in this post.
cause RA166E says so, read up abit in this post.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 22
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From: Phoenix, az, USA
Re: More Nitrous (shant)
I am in the process of running a 100 shot on my ls motor, but with individual throttle bodies from twm on it. has anyone done this??? what does the motor run like? what difference do itbs make???
* B A N N E D *
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,798
Likes: 0
From: chico, Ca, US
Re: More Nitrous (X DaNish X)
Tony fuchs and alot of the cyber racing crew use to run 150-175 shots on stock ls bottom ends back in 94-96. Tuned w/ weber carbs. I know the cyber crx ran 11.10's and fuchs ran 11.70's in a full body da teg.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 686
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From: Toronto, Canada, Canada
Re: More Nitrous (X DaNish X)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by X DaNish X »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice times for your setup, is the head worked? any dyno #'s on motor or spray? 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The head is stock. No dyno numbers yet.
My guess is 170 on the motor and 270 on the 120 shot nitrous, Im going to dyno tune when it goes back together, I should have dyno numbers before I use the 200 shot.
</TD></TR></TABLE>The head is stock. No dyno numbers yet.
My guess is 170 on the motor and 270 on the 120 shot nitrous, Im going to dyno tune when it goes back together, I should have dyno numbers before I use the 200 shot.
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,391
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From: Westchester, NY, USA
Re: More Nitrous (shant)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The head is stock. No dyno numbers yet.
My guess is 170 on the motor and 270 on the 120 shot nitrous, Im going to dyno tune when it goes back together, I should have dyno numbers before I use the 200 shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice job, good luck with everythign
The head is stock. No dyno numbers yet.
My guess is 170 on the motor and 270 on the 120 shot nitrous, Im going to dyno tune when it goes back together, I should have dyno numbers before I use the 200 shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice job, good luck with everythign
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 686
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From: Toronto, Canada, Canada
Re: More Nitrous (Full Race A6)
I ran the motor with the 200 shot. 120 in first and second gear and another 80 for 3rd and 4th. I got to the top of 4th gear by 1000ft. the rod went through the block in the 4-5 shift.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 686
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From: Toronto, Canada, Canada
Re: More Nitrous (SiR831)
only 1 pass with the nitrous.
1.693 60f
4.756 330
7.194 1/8
102.56 mph
9.302 1000
11.290 1/4
106.27 mph
I also did a pass on the motor alone and ran 12.7 @ 105
1.693 60f
4.756 330
7.194 1/8
102.56 mph
9.302 1000
11.290 1/4
106.27 mph
I also did a pass on the motor alone and ran 12.7 @ 105
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 686
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Canada, Canada
Re: (USDMforLife)
here's the video of the nitrous pass. If you look closely you can see some flames out the back of the car in the top of 4th gear.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 9,455
Likes: 3
From: I heart tool, US
Re: More Nitrous (shant)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I already accepted the fact that the motor might let go at any moment when I put the 120 shot on it, I had alot of people tell me that it would not last one pass.
Im not worried if it blowes up, but if there is a chance it will work Id like to try it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are hardcore my freind 
I already accepted the fact that the motor might let go at any moment when I put the 120 shot on it, I had alot of people tell me that it would not last one pass.
Im not worried if it blowes up, but if there is a chance it will work Id like to try it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are hardcore my freind
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 309
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From: WA, USA
Re: More Nitrous (non-VTEC)
Sorry about the news. Thats one thing about nitrous its going to push the piston downward and it doesn't care what the piston is hooked too. Don't give up, major Kudos to ya. How do the top of the pistons look?
Heres some write ups I did. It has flowing formulas and a few extras. I have been getting alot of IM's about nitrous so I thought I would share.
540BBC Low-Pressure System
I have decided to whip up this bit of info brought on by the recent discussion of flowing your nitrous system.
Regardless if you flow your own system or have a tuner flow it for you, there are principles that need to be explained to better understand the fuel pressure’s relationship to this whole flowing business.
The flowing of a system is best described as getting a nitrous to fuel ratio (N/F ratio) for your combo that will compliment your engine setup.
When measuring these ratios, you have to do it by weight. That is, you are determining the relationship of the amount of nitrous used in pounds with that of the fuel used in pounds.
The next bit of info requires an accurate time delay relay and a very accurate digital scale.
For the best accuracy, all parts and conditions being used should match how you run your car at the track. I personally flow my fogger by taking the manifold off the car and set it right along side the car. The hoses for nitrous and fuel are not changed and are run out to the side of the car.
I put a charger on the battery to help alleviate any voltage drop/variation during testing.
The first thing to do is decide what “shot” of nitrous jets you plan on using. Get your nitrous side all hooked up with the way you’d run it in the car. Remember, you want to keep things as consistent with what you do at the track, so you should have the bottle full and pressure at what ever you use. I use 950. I purge the setup then weigh the bottle to get my starting bottle weight. I weigh it as it sits next to the table/test bench with all the hoses hooked to it. That way the only change in weight after the test is the amount of nitrous used, not hoses, nitrous in lines, etc.
Now you need to turn on just the nitrous solenoid(s) with the time delay relay. I flow it for 10 seconds since it is good round easy to work with number. After it shuts off, check the scale and calculate out how much nitrous was used.
Lets say three pounds were used. Lets also say we want a N/F ratio of 5:1. Since we used three pounds of nitrous, that would equate out to .6 lbs of fuel (if you can’t figure out the math, you shouldn’t be doing this).
We need to figure out the fuel side next. There are more accurate ways to measure the fuel (they are posted in the nitrous forums back in Oct ’03) but I’m only going into weight here. You’ll need to find a bucket or container of some sort to flow the fuel into. With a fogger low pressure system, it really doesn’t spray all over the place so a container that held the manifold worked fine.
The first thing to do is find the tare weight of the container. With my scale, I simply put the container on it then reset the scale to zero. That way, when I put the container back on the scale, it is only measuring the weight of the fuel, not the container. For each test, you will want to zero out the scale. Temperature and pressure I have found both will affect the accuracy of a scale so as it gets colder or hotter through the day, your scale may change, so best to zero it every time.
To be safe, make sure the nitrous bottle is closed and that you are only going to be activating the fuel solenoid (s). Now, flow the system for 10 seconds just like the nitrous side. Don’t forget to turn the fuel pump on. Also, use the same fuel you use at the track.
After the system shuts off, wait a bit for all the fuel to drip out. Remember, the engine is pulling vacuum on this stuff and will suck that fuel out so you need to make sure it gets out as well.
Now measure the weight of fuel. Lets say it is at .68 lbs. (I am using pounds here for ease of reference, you really need to use the smallest measurement your scale has, e.g. ounce or grams.) Well, that is too high, so go turn the regulator down a bit (1/4-1/2 turn – just guessing here). Right now, fuel pressure does not concern us in the least. We are interested in the weight of the fuel. Retest the system until you can get it to flow .6 lbs (or whatever number it is you need to get) at least two times in a row.
So now we have your system spitting out the N/F ratio you are happy with. We have to figure out at what pressure it is at so we can keep a log of this info and be able to tune at the track. For this you’ll need some sort of flow tool utilizing a high quality gauge. DO NOT use a glycerin filled gauge. The sealed gauge causes considerable fluctuations in readings… even the fancy ones that have a burp valve. An empty faced (air) gauge or digital gauge is what you want.
Pick out what jet you are going to use in your flow tool. The number can match the size in your nitrous system or it can be an arbitrary number. It doesn’t concern us what it is. The reason being is, we already know that we have the N/F ratio that we want. We just want to see what the fuel pressure is at so that we can use this info at the track. The only thing that the flow jet’s size changes is the fuel pressure READING that we get. For instance, if you use a small jet, it may read 6.5 psi. If you use a jet matching what was in the system for the weight testing, it may read 5.5 psi. We didn’t change the fuel pressure, only the READINGS we got changed. The system will still flow the required weight of fuel. So what we need to do is write down the flow jet number by your results so that you can use the same one at the track. If you wanted you could just use one flow jet for all your horsepower jetting settings. So if you flow another horsepower jet setting and use the same flow tool setup (jet and all), just be sure to write down your results. The main objective you are wanting is to dial in the same fuel pressure at the track as your test results gave you.
With that all said, I personally like to check the fuel pressure, re-flow the system to make sure the same weight comes out, and then retest the fuel pressure again.
Now lets address the question of whether or not to check the fuel pressure through a solenoid, lines, plate, or whatever to come up with what you need. It all depends on how you did the above or how your tuner did it. Yes, there are going to be difference between flowing just off the regulator or flowing through a solenoid and hard lines. But all of it doesn’t mean a thing if you don’t know how it was flowed in the first place. You can check your fuel pressure anywhere after the FP regulator. It doesn’t matter as long as it is the same place that it was initially checked during the N/F flow testing.
I sure hope this makes sense.
Don’t assume that because you just flowed your system, you are ready to go to the track. Check your fuel pressure at the track! Temperature and barometric pressure affect some of the regulators quite significantly.
There are many variables that are out there that doing these tests do not take into account. For instance, it doesn’t take into account that the nitrous and fuel don’t flow individually, they flow at the same time. On a fogger, this is paramount, as the flowing of each through the nozzle will affect the results. However, to measure both at the same time would be very messy without the proper type of container to capture all the fuel flying around while not hindering the nitrous – i.e., you can’t just use a sealed container since the nitrous would blow it apart. Not only that, you have a bunch of pistons that are pulling a ton of air by your nitrous equipment that will also affect the flow rates. Then you have to consider the affects of your car launching and how that affects the fuel pressure (not to mention deadhead regulators that spike to line pressure before being turned on). So what I am saying, while scientific principles are used in doing this stuff, they are not the tell-all of any particular nitrous systems affects on your engine combo and final Air/Fuel ratios.
Individual and Bank Flowing Formulas
N2O:
Start with standard N2O jet from manufacture.
Measure each N2O jet for five seconds with bottle pressure between 900 and 950 PSI.
Measure each bank for five seconds.
Measure both banks together for five seconds.
FUEL:
Measure each fuel jet for five seconds.
Calibrate all jets together within +/- 1 ml.
Flow all jets together and measure weight and volume for fifteen seconds.
Use math formulas to get desired N2O/Fuel ratio.
Utilize fuel pressure to get correct N2O/Fuel ratio.
VOLUME EXAMPLE:
#32 N2O jets flow 18.72 LBS./PER MIN. or 1.560 LBS. in five seconds.
18.72 / 5.8(N/F ratio) = 3.2276 LBS./PER MIN. FUEL
#28 Fuel jets need to flow 3.2276 LBS./PER MIN. Total.
3.2276 / 4 = 0.8069 LBS./PER MIN. @ 15 seconds.
0.8069 / .730 (specific gravity of C-16) / 8.3453 (LBS./GAL. Water) x 3785 (ML. / GAL.) / 8 (Number of Cylinders) = 62.66 ML. PER /CYL. @ 15 Seconds.
18.72 / 5.8 = 3.2276 / 4 = 0.8069 / .730 = 1.1053 / 8.3453 = 0.1325 x 3785 = 501.3245 / 8 = 62.6656
INPUTS
Nitrous Flowed in 1 minute.
Nitrous to Fuel Ratio Target.
Time Measure of Fuel.
Known Specific Gravity of Fuel
Number of Cylinders.
Single Fogger Flowing Formulas Low Pressure
Ray,
I've been using a digital gram scale but you can use this formula utilizing a cc container and a stop watch.
Example:
A 75HP shot at a brake specific fuel consumption of .60
75HP X .6BSFC = 45.0/60min. = 0.75 lbs/per min.
0.75/4 = 0.1875 lbs/per 15 seconds
0.1875/.73 (specific gravity of C-16)/8.3453(lbs/gal water) X 3785(cc/gal)/4(number of cylinders) = 29.1234cc per nozzle in 15 seconds time.
Nitrous ratios should fall in the 5.0 - 6.0 nitrous/fuel range. 6.2 is living on the edge and can get a piston.
BSFC of .60 is good average for nitrous engines.
Back to the example a 75 shot system @ .60 BSFC will use 0.75 lbs/per min. of fuel and 0.75 X 5.8:1 ratio = 4.35 lbs per/min. of nitrous.
Ray what I have been doing is starting at a safe 5:1nitrous/fuel ratio with fuel pressure at 8psi and start taking away fuel pressure but not to go below 6.5psi.
This is of course on our Pro Mod car running a 450HP shot and not my GTI. But it will work on your type system and my future GTI system. The reason I keep it at 6.5psi or higher is flow is proportional to the Sqrt of fuel pressure. So if I have a flow deviation of 1 psi it won't make as much difference with the higher pressure system verses the lower.
You can change time in seconds to what ever you want, I have been using 15 seconds.
Also I used VP C-16 fuel because of its known specific gravity.
One other thing I have found out is nitrous fuel jets and N2O jets do have some variations and don't be surprised to find the same stamped number to flow differently. On the N2O jets it takes some wasted nitrous to flow and measure so I take drill bits and check with a mic. and call it good.
I hope this makes sense if you have any other questions e-mail me.
Later Russell
Ring Gaps
As a general nitrous rule when running large amounts you should run 0.0058" per inch of bore for the top and 0.007" per inch of bore for the 2nd.
The extra .002" on the second is used to dump the compression blown by the top ring and keep the top ring stable in the groove. The reason why gapless second rings do not work.......
If your running stock gaps the ring gaps will butt and cause the ring to tilt and unseal the ring. This will cause a change reaction of events all that are not good.
On stock gaps on 2.0L and smaller, running 75shot or under you don't have to worry to much about it.
Heres some write ups I did. It has flowing formulas and a few extras. I have been getting alot of IM's about nitrous so I thought I would share.
540BBC Low-Pressure System
I have decided to whip up this bit of info brought on by the recent discussion of flowing your nitrous system.
Regardless if you flow your own system or have a tuner flow it for you, there are principles that need to be explained to better understand the fuel pressure’s relationship to this whole flowing business.
The flowing of a system is best described as getting a nitrous to fuel ratio (N/F ratio) for your combo that will compliment your engine setup.
When measuring these ratios, you have to do it by weight. That is, you are determining the relationship of the amount of nitrous used in pounds with that of the fuel used in pounds.
The next bit of info requires an accurate time delay relay and a very accurate digital scale.
For the best accuracy, all parts and conditions being used should match how you run your car at the track. I personally flow my fogger by taking the manifold off the car and set it right along side the car. The hoses for nitrous and fuel are not changed and are run out to the side of the car.
I put a charger on the battery to help alleviate any voltage drop/variation during testing.
The first thing to do is decide what “shot” of nitrous jets you plan on using. Get your nitrous side all hooked up with the way you’d run it in the car. Remember, you want to keep things as consistent with what you do at the track, so you should have the bottle full and pressure at what ever you use. I use 950. I purge the setup then weigh the bottle to get my starting bottle weight. I weigh it as it sits next to the table/test bench with all the hoses hooked to it. That way the only change in weight after the test is the amount of nitrous used, not hoses, nitrous in lines, etc.
Now you need to turn on just the nitrous solenoid(s) with the time delay relay. I flow it for 10 seconds since it is good round easy to work with number. After it shuts off, check the scale and calculate out how much nitrous was used.
Lets say three pounds were used. Lets also say we want a N/F ratio of 5:1. Since we used three pounds of nitrous, that would equate out to .6 lbs of fuel (if you can’t figure out the math, you shouldn’t be doing this).
We need to figure out the fuel side next. There are more accurate ways to measure the fuel (they are posted in the nitrous forums back in Oct ’03) but I’m only going into weight here. You’ll need to find a bucket or container of some sort to flow the fuel into. With a fogger low pressure system, it really doesn’t spray all over the place so a container that held the manifold worked fine.
The first thing to do is find the tare weight of the container. With my scale, I simply put the container on it then reset the scale to zero. That way, when I put the container back on the scale, it is only measuring the weight of the fuel, not the container. For each test, you will want to zero out the scale. Temperature and pressure I have found both will affect the accuracy of a scale so as it gets colder or hotter through the day, your scale may change, so best to zero it every time.
To be safe, make sure the nitrous bottle is closed and that you are only going to be activating the fuel solenoid (s). Now, flow the system for 10 seconds just like the nitrous side. Don’t forget to turn the fuel pump on. Also, use the same fuel you use at the track.
After the system shuts off, wait a bit for all the fuel to drip out. Remember, the engine is pulling vacuum on this stuff and will suck that fuel out so you need to make sure it gets out as well.
Now measure the weight of fuel. Lets say it is at .68 lbs. (I am using pounds here for ease of reference, you really need to use the smallest measurement your scale has, e.g. ounce or grams.) Well, that is too high, so go turn the regulator down a bit (1/4-1/2 turn – just guessing here). Right now, fuel pressure does not concern us in the least. We are interested in the weight of the fuel. Retest the system until you can get it to flow .6 lbs (or whatever number it is you need to get) at least two times in a row.
So now we have your system spitting out the N/F ratio you are happy with. We have to figure out at what pressure it is at so we can keep a log of this info and be able to tune at the track. For this you’ll need some sort of flow tool utilizing a high quality gauge. DO NOT use a glycerin filled gauge. The sealed gauge causes considerable fluctuations in readings… even the fancy ones that have a burp valve. An empty faced (air) gauge or digital gauge is what you want.
Pick out what jet you are going to use in your flow tool. The number can match the size in your nitrous system or it can be an arbitrary number. It doesn’t concern us what it is. The reason being is, we already know that we have the N/F ratio that we want. We just want to see what the fuel pressure is at so that we can use this info at the track. The only thing that the flow jet’s size changes is the fuel pressure READING that we get. For instance, if you use a small jet, it may read 6.5 psi. If you use a jet matching what was in the system for the weight testing, it may read 5.5 psi. We didn’t change the fuel pressure, only the READINGS we got changed. The system will still flow the required weight of fuel. So what we need to do is write down the flow jet number by your results so that you can use the same one at the track. If you wanted you could just use one flow jet for all your horsepower jetting settings. So if you flow another horsepower jet setting and use the same flow tool setup (jet and all), just be sure to write down your results. The main objective you are wanting is to dial in the same fuel pressure at the track as your test results gave you.
With that all said, I personally like to check the fuel pressure, re-flow the system to make sure the same weight comes out, and then retest the fuel pressure again.
Now lets address the question of whether or not to check the fuel pressure through a solenoid, lines, plate, or whatever to come up with what you need. It all depends on how you did the above or how your tuner did it. Yes, there are going to be difference between flowing just off the regulator or flowing through a solenoid and hard lines. But all of it doesn’t mean a thing if you don’t know how it was flowed in the first place. You can check your fuel pressure anywhere after the FP regulator. It doesn’t matter as long as it is the same place that it was initially checked during the N/F flow testing.
I sure hope this makes sense.
Don’t assume that because you just flowed your system, you are ready to go to the track. Check your fuel pressure at the track! Temperature and barometric pressure affect some of the regulators quite significantly.
There are many variables that are out there that doing these tests do not take into account. For instance, it doesn’t take into account that the nitrous and fuel don’t flow individually, they flow at the same time. On a fogger, this is paramount, as the flowing of each through the nozzle will affect the results. However, to measure both at the same time would be very messy without the proper type of container to capture all the fuel flying around while not hindering the nitrous – i.e., you can’t just use a sealed container since the nitrous would blow it apart. Not only that, you have a bunch of pistons that are pulling a ton of air by your nitrous equipment that will also affect the flow rates. Then you have to consider the affects of your car launching and how that affects the fuel pressure (not to mention deadhead regulators that spike to line pressure before being turned on). So what I am saying, while scientific principles are used in doing this stuff, they are not the tell-all of any particular nitrous systems affects on your engine combo and final Air/Fuel ratios.
Individual and Bank Flowing Formulas
N2O:
Start with standard N2O jet from manufacture.
Measure each N2O jet for five seconds with bottle pressure between 900 and 950 PSI.
Measure each bank for five seconds.
Measure both banks together for five seconds.
FUEL:
Measure each fuel jet for five seconds.
Calibrate all jets together within +/- 1 ml.
Flow all jets together and measure weight and volume for fifteen seconds.
Use math formulas to get desired N2O/Fuel ratio.
Utilize fuel pressure to get correct N2O/Fuel ratio.
VOLUME EXAMPLE:
#32 N2O jets flow 18.72 LBS./PER MIN. or 1.560 LBS. in five seconds.
18.72 / 5.8(N/F ratio) = 3.2276 LBS./PER MIN. FUEL
#28 Fuel jets need to flow 3.2276 LBS./PER MIN. Total.
3.2276 / 4 = 0.8069 LBS./PER MIN. @ 15 seconds.
0.8069 / .730 (specific gravity of C-16) / 8.3453 (LBS./GAL. Water) x 3785 (ML. / GAL.) / 8 (Number of Cylinders) = 62.66 ML. PER /CYL. @ 15 Seconds.
18.72 / 5.8 = 3.2276 / 4 = 0.8069 / .730 = 1.1053 / 8.3453 = 0.1325 x 3785 = 501.3245 / 8 = 62.6656
INPUTS
Nitrous Flowed in 1 minute.
Nitrous to Fuel Ratio Target.
Time Measure of Fuel.
Known Specific Gravity of Fuel
Number of Cylinders.
Single Fogger Flowing Formulas Low Pressure
Ray,
I've been using a digital gram scale but you can use this formula utilizing a cc container and a stop watch.
Example:
A 75HP shot at a brake specific fuel consumption of .60
75HP X .6BSFC = 45.0/60min. = 0.75 lbs/per min.
0.75/4 = 0.1875 lbs/per 15 seconds
0.1875/.73 (specific gravity of C-16)/8.3453(lbs/gal water) X 3785(cc/gal)/4(number of cylinders) = 29.1234cc per nozzle in 15 seconds time.
Nitrous ratios should fall in the 5.0 - 6.0 nitrous/fuel range. 6.2 is living on the edge and can get a piston.
BSFC of .60 is good average for nitrous engines.
Back to the example a 75 shot system @ .60 BSFC will use 0.75 lbs/per min. of fuel and 0.75 X 5.8:1 ratio = 4.35 lbs per/min. of nitrous.
Ray what I have been doing is starting at a safe 5:1nitrous/fuel ratio with fuel pressure at 8psi and start taking away fuel pressure but not to go below 6.5psi.
This is of course on our Pro Mod car running a 450HP shot and not my GTI. But it will work on your type system and my future GTI system. The reason I keep it at 6.5psi or higher is flow is proportional to the Sqrt of fuel pressure. So if I have a flow deviation of 1 psi it won't make as much difference with the higher pressure system verses the lower.
You can change time in seconds to what ever you want, I have been using 15 seconds.
Also I used VP C-16 fuel because of its known specific gravity.
One other thing I have found out is nitrous fuel jets and N2O jets do have some variations and don't be surprised to find the same stamped number to flow differently. On the N2O jets it takes some wasted nitrous to flow and measure so I take drill bits and check with a mic. and call it good.
I hope this makes sense if you have any other questions e-mail me.
Later Russell
Ring Gaps
As a general nitrous rule when running large amounts you should run 0.0058" per inch of bore for the top and 0.007" per inch of bore for the 2nd.
The extra .002" on the second is used to dump the compression blown by the top ring and keep the top ring stable in the groove. The reason why gapless second rings do not work.......
If your running stock gaps the ring gaps will butt and cause the ring to tilt and unseal the ring. This will cause a change reaction of events all that are not good.
On stock gaps on 2.0L and smaller, running 75shot or under you don't have to worry to much about it.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
From: Sunrise, FL
Re: (shant)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
cause RA166E says so, read up abit in this post.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda-Tech is a Great Source for info but there is A LOT of Nonesense and Bullshit Information that you'll get along the way. you have done well so far, just learn from your mistakes and try to sort out the useful from the useless information that you receive.
by what i've read in this post it seems that you have Stock Rods with ARP Rod Bolts. your rods were your weak point but i'm sure you knew that.
keep up the good work!
cause RA166E says so, read up abit in this post.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda-Tech is a Great Source for info but there is A LOT of Nonesense and Bullshit Information that you'll get along the way. you have done well so far, just learn from your mistakes and try to sort out the useful from the useless information that you receive.
by what i've read in this post it seems that you have Stock Rods with ARP Rod Bolts. your rods were your weak point but i'm sure you knew that.
keep up the good work!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,423
Likes: 0
From: Marina, ca, US
Re: More Nitrous (shant)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only 1 pass with the nitrous.
1.693 60f
4.756 330
7.194 1/8
102.56 mph
9.302 1000
11.290 1/4
106.27 mph
I also did a pass on the motor alone and ran 12.7 @ 105</TD></TR></TABLE>
1.693 60f
4.756 330
7.194 1/8
102.56 mph
9.302 1000
11.290 1/4
106.27 mph
I also did a pass on the motor alone and ran 12.7 @ 105</TD></TR></TABLE>
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Canada
Re: More Nitrous (shant)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only 1 pass with the nitrous.
1.693 60f
4.756 330
7.194 1/8
102.56 mph
9.302 1000
11.290 1/4
106.27 mph
I also did a pass on the motor alone and ran 12.7 @ 105</TD></TR></TABLE>
was there any other damage?
1.693 60f
4.756 330
7.194 1/8
102.56 mph
9.302 1000
11.290 1/4
106.27 mph
I also did a pass on the motor alone and ran 12.7 @ 105</TD></TR></TABLE>
was there any other damage?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 686
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Canada, Canada
Re: More Nitrous (.y2a.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .y2a. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
was there any other damage?</TD></TR></TABLE>
my air filter blew up,
I burned two exhaust valves in number 4 chamber,
I thought there would have been more damage to the combustion chamber #3 when the rod broke, surprisingly there is nothing damaged
Heres a picture of things to come in the future
was there any other damage?</TD></TR></TABLE>
my air filter blew up,
I burned two exhaust valves in number 4 chamber,
I thought there would have been more damage to the combustion chamber #3 when the rod broke, surprisingly there is nothing damaged
Heres a picture of things to come in the future
