More Nitrous
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RA166E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm the one you introduced nitrous to Dean.LOL His one of my students so to speak.
The guys has got it figured out. Great nitrous tuner!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so what should my ring gap be for nitrous compared to all motor?
The guys has got it figured out. Great nitrous tuner!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>so what should my ring gap be for nitrous compared to all motor?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont realy know the ring gaps, Im the second owner of this motor and from what I uderstand the motor was built to factory specs. The jets are whats recommended from NOS, For the 120 shot its 24 and 18 and for the 80 shot its 22 and 16, one uses a soft plume nozzle and the other in anular.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll IM you some info about nitrous and ring end gaps. At 43psi fuel pressure with those factory settings you will be way on the rich side. Around a 4.5:1 Nitrous to Fuel ratio.
I'll IM you some info about nitrous and ring end gaps. At 43psi fuel pressure with those factory settings you will be way on the rich side. Around a 4.5:1 Nitrous to Fuel ratio.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RA166E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm the one you introduced nitrous to Dean.LOL His one of my students so to speak.
The guys has got it figured out. Great nitrous tuner!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
good stuff, i'll be keeping in touch with you
he's been giving me lots of good advice/tips thus far, i guess all i have to do is get off my *** and finish my damn car.
this is my manifold that he did.............i'm a little worried about clearance with the lines/solenoids, so i think we're gonna tuck them up a little closer to the manifold.

i cant wait to get my car going........i've got a stock b16 laying around, so i'm gonna see how much that little **** of a motor will take before it lets go
Shant: thanks for the reply, i've been looking at CTR's or skunk 1's, although the wicked cams are a great bang for the buck. i wanna say there stage 1's are close to the skunks, so we'll see.
The guys has got it figured out. Great nitrous tuner!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>good stuff, i'll be keeping in touch with you
he's been giving me lots of good advice/tips thus far, i guess all i have to do is get off my *** and finish my damn car.
this is my manifold that he did.............i'm a little worried about clearance with the lines/solenoids, so i think we're gonna tuck them up a little closer to the manifold.
i cant wait to get my car going........i've got a stock b16 laying around, so i'm gonna see how much that little **** of a motor will take before it lets go
Shant: thanks for the reply, i've been looking at CTR's or skunk 1's, although the wicked cams are a great bang for the buck. i wanna say there stage 1's are close to the skunks, so we'll see.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Bluffton/Hilton Head,SC / Ft. Lauderdale, FL, usa
i was thinkiong u might wanna lower the fuel jet on the second stage if u are using one bottle .so u dont run to rich on the second stage when the preesure drops, a 14 or maybe u can drill a 15...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what should my ring gap be for nitrous compared to all motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
As a general nitrous rule when running large amounts you should run 0.0058" per inch of bore for the top and 0.007" per inch of bore for the 2nd.
The extra .002" on the second is used to dump the compresion blown by the top ring and keep the top ring stable in the groove. The reason why gapless second rings do not work.......
If your running stock gaps the ring gaps will butt and cause the ring to tilt and unseal the ring. This will cause a change reaction of events all that are not good.
On stock gaps on 2.0L and smaller, running 75shot or under you don't have to worry to much about it.
As a general nitrous rule when running large amounts you should run 0.0058" per inch of bore for the top and 0.007" per inch of bore for the 2nd.
The extra .002" on the second is used to dump the compresion blown by the top ring and keep the top ring stable in the groove. The reason why gapless second rings do not work.......
If your running stock gaps the ring gaps will butt and cause the ring to tilt and unseal the ring. This will cause a change reaction of events all that are not good.
On stock gaps on 2.0L and smaller, running 75shot or under you don't have to worry to much about it.
Heres a very good online nitrous jet calc. I check it to my wet flowing system and its very accurate.
http://www.robietherobot.com/N...r.htm
http://www.robietherobot.com/N...r.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RA166E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As a general nitrous rule when running large amounts you should run 0.0058" per inch of bore for the top and 0.007" per inch of bore for the 2nd.
The extra .002" on the second is used to dump the compresion blown by the top ring and keep the top ring stable in the groove. The reason why gapless second rings do not work.......
If your running stock gaps the ring gaps will butt and cause the ring to tilt and unseal the ring. This will cause a change reaction of events all that are not good.
On stock gaps on 2.0L and smaller, running 75shot or under you don't have to worry to much about it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like my rings are going to bind up if i go ahead and run the 200shot on the stock bottom end. will this damage the cylinderwall or destroy the pisong ring land?
again thanks for the info
As a general nitrous rule when running large amounts you should run 0.0058" per inch of bore for the top and 0.007" per inch of bore for the 2nd.
The extra .002" on the second is used to dump the compresion blown by the top ring and keep the top ring stable in the groove. The reason why gapless second rings do not work.......
If your running stock gaps the ring gaps will butt and cause the ring to tilt and unseal the ring. This will cause a change reaction of events all that are not good.
On stock gaps on 2.0L and smaller, running 75shot or under you don't have to worry to much about it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like my rings are going to bind up if i go ahead and run the 200shot on the stock bottom end. will this damage the cylinderwall or destroy the pisong ring land?
again thanks for the info
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do yu recommend as far as flow-matched nozzles and a quality jet?
What brand noids do you like?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Loaded Question LOL All I can say is at one time NOS had some problems with their jets. Out of 20 jets I could only find four that would flow the same numbers. This was flowing at low pressures 8psi to 6psi. The fuel injection cars have a advantage do to the higher fuel pressure. Less deviation. NOS has fixed this problem.
Solenoids quality wise there all pretty much the same in my book. Nitrous to fuel ratios... some nitrous companys run higher Nitrous to fuel ratios then others so they will make more power out of the box.
What brand noids do you like?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Loaded Question LOL All I can say is at one time NOS had some problems with their jets. Out of 20 jets I could only find four that would flow the same numbers. This was flowing at low pressures 8psi to 6psi. The fuel injection cars have a advantage do to the higher fuel pressure. Less deviation. NOS has fixed this problem.
Solenoids quality wise there all pretty much the same in my book. Nitrous to fuel ratios... some nitrous companys run higher Nitrous to fuel ratios then others so they will make more power out of the box.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like my rings are going to bind up if i go ahead and run the 200shot on the stock bottom end. will this damage the cylinderwall or destroy the pisong ring land?
again thanks for the info
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sorry to say but I would have to say you will hurt the engine at levels your at with stock gaps.
Most of the time when they butt they take out the ring land. You will be able to tell by seeing a polished look at the ends. Also you can lose oil control and can get oil past the rings and detonate big time.
again thanks for the info
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm sorry to say but I would have to say you will hurt the engine at levels your at with stock gaps.
Most of the time when they butt they take out the ring land. You will be able to tell by seeing a polished look at the ends. Also you can lose oil control and can get oil past the rings and detonate big time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RA166E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm sorry to say but I would have to say you will hurt the engine at levels your at with stock gaps.
Most of the time when they butt they take out the ring land. You will be able to tell by seeing a polished look at the ends. Also you can lose oil control and can get oil past the rings and detonate big time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
is this pollished look on the cylinder wall, where the ring ends are?
is it possible to remove the rings, re-gap them and re-install them?
I'm sorry to say but I would have to say you will hurt the engine at levels your at with stock gaps.
Most of the time when they butt they take out the ring land. You will be able to tell by seeing a polished look at the ends. Also you can lose oil control and can get oil past the rings and detonate big time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
is this pollished look on the cylinder wall, where the ring ends are?
is it possible to remove the rings, re-gap them and re-install them?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">200 is alot of nitrous on a stock block...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I already accepted the fact that the motor might let go at any moment when I put the 120 shot on it, I had alot of people tell me that it would not last one pass.
Im not worried if it blowes up, but if there is a chance it will work Id like to try it.
I already accepted the fact that the motor might let go at any moment when I put the 120 shot on it, I had alot of people tell me that it would not last one pass.
Im not worried if it blowes up, but if there is a chance it will work Id like to try it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this pollished look on the cylinder wall, where the ring ends are?
is it possible to remove the rings, re-gap them and re-install them? </TD></TR></TABLE>
No its the ring ends themselves.
Yes you can take them out and file fit them to the bore. Install the comp rings half way down in the bore and check them with a feeler gauge. Fit each set to the cylinder that it will go in.
If you don't have a ring file you can use a fine file in a vise and file the ring inward towards the vise one direction. Just file one side of the ring end to keep it square. Take your time doing this it will change quickly.
is it possible to remove the rings, re-gap them and re-install them? </TD></TR></TABLE>
No its the ring ends themselves.
Yes you can take them out and file fit them to the bore. Install the comp rings half way down in the bore and check them with a feeler gauge. Fit each set to the cylinder that it will go in.
If you don't have a ring file you can use a fine file in a vise and file the ring inward towards the vise one direction. Just file one side of the ring end to keep it square. Take your time doing this it will change quickly.
What is your whole setup if you dont mind me asking? (stock gsr botttom end? valve train? headers? Tranny? Injector size? etc.) Just asking because I hit 12.3 in my 94 civic cx hatch full interior through the muffler with 100 shot of dry nitrous and a stock jdm 98 spec itr motor. Thanks....
Not yet, Im going to check the ring gap, if it needs then Im going to regap the rings, if everything checks out ok than im going with the 200 shot. I just took the head off today.


