I put my missing link on today and my car is even more f'D up then before. It runs like **** the check engine throws MAP sensor code. The missing link isnt backwards, (I tried both ways) I used both the o rings..the screws are tight. Does my car not need that since its obd I? Anyone else had this problem, i mean cmon how hard would it be to mess up this install. I did reset the ecu..

 

What other probelms does your car have? My car is running the as way maybe we could try and find the common cause. I also have a missing link but never though that it could cause any problems because as you said how can you install it wrong. The only difference is that I am OBD-II. Can anyone else help us?

 

my cars been running like **** for a while now..it hesitates, the a/f gague drops from rich to nothing after 4K, i dont know whats wrong..

 

Sounds kinds like me the car runs fine after 3000 rpms. Don't know if it is running lean because I didn't hook up my gauges yet. Do you check for a vacuum leak? What's your set up?

 

there is another post where someone said that thier missing link got stuck and let boost reach the map sensor. and he freed it using wd-40 and moving the valve by hand. its here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=131081

 

There is a mini FAQ post about the missing link down below. Try removing the ML and run the map the way it is supposed to. If the car still runs crappy OFF boost, then it isn't the ML. If it runs crappy only with the ML on, it may be stuck open.

 

Your car still needs it with OBD I.

In any case if we can't solve it via troubleshooting, I'll Fedex you a replacement to make sure that it isn't the unit itself.

1) since you tried to install it the other way, it is all still in one piece correct, and the valve still moves up and down?

2) Disconnect all electronics first that connect up or modify map sensor voltage to the ECU, reset the ECU and on lower safe boost see if the car runs fine with just the missing link.

3) Try some of the stuff on the Q&A post I'd put up.

Important: If you used to run with standard check valves before did you back off the timing (retard), or use something to retard timing? If not, with the old check valve setup, you may have not been in complete limp mode but the ecu is backing off timing inconsistently. When using the ML make sure that your timing is set to take the amount of boost that you are running. With the ML the ECU tends to think that everything is perfect, so you may need to backoff on the timing, as you would with any after-market turbocharged car, unless your compression ratio has been dropped.

Anyhow, e-mail me directly so we can t-shoot this, or determine if I should send you out another unit.

Peter

 

my car did all of the above... the map sensor is bad... clean out the missing link
and replace the sensor and you'll be as good as new

Aaron
'96 Turbo GSR

 

Good catch. The only thing to look out for is if you were never running anything over 10 psi, but then again, pressure spikes, which are dampened by most mechanical gauges or signal conditioned(filtered) by electroning gauges aren't seen on the gauges. So this could be it, but go through all the trouble shooting before spending a couple hundred on a new map sensor.

This is really why an ML should be used from the get go of turbocharging so that you don't end up popping the MAP sensor. There are other pneumatic MAP bypasses out there, but be wary, almost all of them use, bleed or vent boost away from the map sensor. And unfortunately most valves can't bleed off pressure spikes fast enough, the only real way to prevent MAP sensor damage is to block boost altogether.