Ok as in my other posts I was having problems with my car after the rebuild that I had done for lower compressions. Well I got some advice to tune the MF2 . Well I was going to start on that, so I opened it up, and turned on the ignition. Well there is supposed to be a little green light that flashes when the car is powered up. Well it didn’t flashed. So I checked the current to the extra injectors and it is receiving current, but I didn’t get to the MF2 yet, had to go to work. So pretty much my question is, if something happen when my motor got put in, with the MF2 wiring. Would that be my prob with my engine not getting enough fuel? Cause when the turbo gets around 2-4 psi it falls flat on its face, bogs down big time. So were should I check for a fuses or what not? I am so lost, trying to learn about this stuff, and not to be discouraged. I know it takes time, to sort all the bugs and stuff. With no performance shops around to help out you guys are all that I have to help. So any help will be greatly appreciated. TIA

 

The power light in my MF2 is red, not green, if it matters. When you turn the motor on, do the rpms lights go on at their specified rpm?

It sounds like your MF2 isn't getting power, without power no fuel will be injected and poor performance will result.

 

No the rpm lights are not coming on when it hits the rpms.


[Modified by Pro-Lude, 11:41 PM 7/23/2001]

 

You might want to trace all the wires to make sure they are conncected where they are supposed to be.

white-map sensor
blue-map sensor
orange-map sensor
yellow-rpm input
red-power(use 5 amp fuse)
red-injectors
brown-injectors
black-ground
white-ground

 

Cool thanks for the little wiring digram, I will check tomorrow but i got a funny feeling that it doent have a fuse on the power. I didnt install it that way, i bought the car with the set up on it for a good price and I have been going threw it. And if its the wire I am thinking of, i think i am screwed. Cause i think when my motor was getting put back in it might have been shorted out, I am hoping not but my luck it prob is..

 

Now that i think of it if the yellow is for the rpms, if it wasnt hooked back up, it wouldnt have power right? Cause if it cant read the rpms it can't make adjustments to the injectors right? So were would i find were it needs to be hooked up at?


[Modified by Pro-Lude, 11:51 PM 7/23/2001]

 

I don't think the MF2 will work with the rpm disconnected.

There are multiple places to hook the rpm wire to, the easiest place is the rpm test wire on the passenger side of the car. It is a single blue wire with a 2 pin connector on it, attached to the shock tower. I just cut the 2 pin connector off and soldered the MF2 yellow wire to the blue test wire.

 

Ok i got everything right, when the car is on the red light flashes, i think its for the injectors. So how do i go about dailing the settings in? Since i done the lowe compression rebuild it prob needs more fuel? i think, i just not sure were to start.

 

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/mf2/tec...html#pot_thres

The lower compression shouldn't need more fuel. If all the setting are out of whack, you might want to send it back to FMax to have them reprogram it to be safe. Try the above link for more info.

 

When F-Max originaly sets it, they use marker to mark their setting on the potentiameters (at least they did on mine). Sending it back just means they're going to turn it so the marker lines up again, you can do this yourself.

Ryan had problems with the MF2 at high boost and ended up getting 440cc injectors in his fuel rail tuned down with an S-AFC to help the MF2 out. I think you might have problems just using the MF2 with the 2 injectors infront of the tb when going over 10-12 psi.

If you have no idea where to start tuning (wether you're running too rich or lean), then take it to a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor.

 

Hey D.Lude i noticted in that post from a guy that has a h22 turbo having hesitation problems. I think that pretty much narrows it down to me also. Why do the h22a's have a hard time handling it? Cause of the ecu cannot compensate for 'on-the-fly' changed when at WOT, quoted from apexxi, So what can i do about that? Will a haltech stand alone or hondata solve it? Or what can i do now just to get it to perform a little better untill i can save of some money for one of those systems. Be cause by the time i do all the stuff like fuel pump bigger injectors,etc i could have bought a stand alone.

 

I never had any hesitation problems. I'm not certain what could be causing that. Are you in a high altitude? The MF2 is set to turn the injectors on when the MAP reads around atmospheric. I ended up turning my pressure activation on the MF2 down to turn on lower than atmospheric. If you're someplace with a high elevation you should be turning the activation point down even lower.

Ya, all the stuff I have:
V-AFC: $300, AVC-R: $400, Missing Link: $60, MF2: $300???, MSD BTM: $120??

I don't remember how much the BTM cost me and the MF2 came with the kit. I know that new they're like $350.00 without injectors. Add all that up and we get what $1200.00. The Haltech with boost solinoid costs the same amount and I'm not running all this half assed crap. This is another one of those if I only new then what I know now.

 

Well i live in the mountains. I'll just tinker around with it and see what happens.

 

Ok i have traced my wiring and everthing seems to be right but it still isnt working.Dirtylude said, the green injector light should be coming on when i hit boost with the red threshold light . Well all that comes on is the red threshold light . Well so i guess it is right or something is wrong with my MF2. I got everything wired buy the digram i got of this thread. Any other suggestions?

 

Well DiryLude gave some advice about the MF2, So thanks for all that has tried to help. Also to double check something were should the vacum line for the map sensor be? That would be the last thing i can think of. Cause if the map sensor isnt reading boost then i guess thats one thing it would be dunno?