im sure you do, if its anythig like the rest of the honda big turbo world, u dont have a IAC, ur running a better fuel than 93 pump, u have huge injectors if not 8, u have a ecu with more than 2 amp inj drivers to drive these massive injectors, and u have not much of a choice but to have a wierd timing #'s at idle lol

 

i have pression turbo 780cc injectors a walbro 255 fuel pump, AEM fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator, the car never overheated the egts never went pass 1550 @ WOT also i was running only 12 psi i have wiseco piston h beam con rods the block is sleeved the head is built as well, i invested a lot of money on this motor and i didnt take any short cuts

 

WHATS AIC?

 

do you log fuel pressure? what was the base pressure? what size turbo is that presision unit? what was IAT? EGTS are not gonna tell u much at this point, a lean burn engine will have relativly low egt's when it says goodnight.

12 psi or 40 psi, when something aint right, its gonna do this....

 

IAC-idle air control
IAT-intake air temp

 

what ever i have is what the tuner said i needed i didnt have an egt gauge before he said it would be nice to have 1 when tuning so i went and got 1

 

good to have.....

 

the hondata s200 that i'm using should log the fuel i called the tuner and asked him to email me the tuning file so when i get it i'll try to post it
i'm running a turbonetics t3/t4 ball bearing turbo

 

i do have and idle air control its on the intake manifold

 

your right i seen a lot people disable them

 

30* timing at idle isn't really that big of a deal... unless it's actually the mechanical timing in which it's a real issue.

 

Damn thats a tough break man.

 

i'm gonna have the injectors flow tested and when they all work i want to know what the tuner is gonna say or scused hes gonna have

 

i guess i should of had listen to the other people that he tuned their cars and mess them up i didnt bealived it then now i do but its too late i guess like the saying goes live and learn i'm learning the hard way

 

trust me his day is coming, just keep your head up man

 

[QUOTE=vtekthis;41694618]MBT=Mechanical Base Timing ???

 

No, that's correct.

Abnormal combustion can generally be divided into two categories. Pre-ignition combustion and post-ignition combustion. Pre-ignition is anything that sets off the mixture before the spark plug fires and post-ignition is anything that sets it off in an area ahead of the flame front after the spark plug has fired.

Pre-ignition will show up as pock marks on the top of the piston and will eventually eat a hole in the center of the piston if it is allowed to progress far enough. As mentioned before it usually occurs due to a 'hot spot' in the combustion chamber. Continued pre-ignition will promotepost-ignition so sometimes you will have both types of damage.

Post-ignition (generically called 'detonation') occurs when the spark plug fires, the flame front begins burning, and the 'end gases' which are the unburnt air fuel mixture ahead of the flame front spontaneously combusts due to the pressure and temperature in those end gases reach the ignition temperature of the fuel. It shows up as damage to the ring lands on the edges of the piston. The reason it does this is because the spark plug is in the center of the cylinder and the flame front spreads out radially. This compresses the end gases which are at the outer edges of the cylinder. When the end gases explode the pressure in the cylinder in that area spikes high enough to damage the ring lands. The violent vibration of the two flame fronts colliding also increase the heat transfer which is why the ring lands may look melted.

I can not say why his engine detonated. It could be because the tuner had the ignition too far advanced or it's possibly the engine is built wrong. If there is not a proper quench area (meaning there is excessive clearance between the top of the piston and the cylinder head) on the edges of the piston it can cause this which would not be the tuners fault.

 

Maximum brake torque

 

[QUOTE=pk386;41695951]Mean Best Torque or Mean Best Timing as some people say.

 

Or maximum brake torque.. I don't think anyone agrees on what the acronym actually is. Either way, 30 degrees at any level of boost is past mbt. Isn't a stock gsr 28 about degrees? And that's without boost.

 

Your tuner is deffinitely not sure of what he's doing. We tune quite a few DD cars between 325-450whp on 92 octane pretty often, and confidently. You have to keep the timing numbers low with pump fuel IMO.

 

hey wait,

so this guy already had a bad rep and you still went to him?

id say its your fault then,

tuner aint gonna stop doing it while people keep paying for it.

 

[quote=Scott_Tucker;41696101]

 

the tuner called me today and said that he talked to someone from hondata and that he described what happend to the pistons and that the guy at hondata said that he's seen pistons like that before and that is cause by a lean condition he said that some injectors might work fine at 90% duty cycle but might not work well at 60% or 40% , i dont know yet what duty cycle my injectors were working at whent the engine blew up but the tuner is gonna let me know so i can send the injectors back to precision to have them flow tested at the cycle they were working when the engine fail

 

when you say timming numbers what #s are you taliking about my tuner said that timing was @21 degrees is that # good or bad