Hate to break it to ya...s300/ectune/neptune/uberdata ALL have the "hidden timing advance" you wanna know why they do?

Let me quote some stuff for ya....
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php...13441&start=15 info pulled out of this thread

From Blundar
"welcome to what has been going on behind the scenes since 1992... This is HONDA'S work NOT Crome.

And just for the record - I haven't disassembled Hondata's code because I think it is unethical but as a user of their tuning software, I've looked at the timing maps in their basemaps. They're sufficiently close to OEM honda timing maps to make me suspect that this "base ignition" advance is a part of Hondata Stage 2/3/4, S100/S200 and S300 as well - using OEM code as a base is both a blessing and a curse sometimes."


From Xenoncron
"I am sure this table is there in every code base...and its different depending on the motor. So are warm-up enrichment tables, so are IAT ignition advance tables. This is why we TUNE cars...and the principle remains...dont mess with which you know nothing about...

Everyone complaining here and referencing 'other' tuning systems still has no clue obviously because as Dave stated...THIS ISNT CROME.

Some systems have the ability to change certain tables, some dont. I dont care if you are talking about Uberdata, Crome, Neptune, Hondata, eCtune or anything else out there on the market or off, there is NO ONE, that has the ability to edit EVERY SINGLE TABLE in the code, except for HONDA themselves...

But guess which of those systems ALLOWS you to have the ability to script something into the program so that you CAN change these tables if you know what you are doing?

Anyways...the point was, that people who claimed they were making changes and nothing happend had SOMETHING ELSE going on..."



This is also the same thing ive been saying for years and anyone with half a brain who can disassemble code and see whats actually going on while the code is being executed through the cpu in the ecu.
If you are running the newer versions of crome 1.5 and up this "Hidden Timing Advance" has been removed.

I realize this doesnt apply to this thread since the owner pushed it pass the 7psi it was tuned for....but im tired of people bashing crome without a clue of whats really going on with the "hidden timing advance"

 

\ SPoonfeeding ;O)

 

if you dont mind me asking, what did your spark plug look like when it came out

 

the gap was melted shut and the metal shavings was stuck to the whole thing

 

get your injectors checked. I did the same thing a verry long time ago. Melted a piston, rebuilt the motor and put it back on the dyno and did the same thing. Finally found out the hard way that one of the injector was dirty and was running lean on that one cyl. Overall af was good, but that one was lean and melted the piston.

 

this a very good pic of what prolonged and heavy knock/ping/pre-det looks like... who ever tuned that car i would not recommended you go back to that tooner....
best of luck.

 

tuner only tuned it to 7psi...owner/operator cranked it up past 7psi. at least thats what im understanding from reading through the thread

 

point taken i apologize for the misunderstanding...
just that when ever i tune a car i ALWAYS leave a bumper zone for about 5-10 psi and then some haha....

 

my head gasket is leaking coolant into the block now. awesome. it was running good

 

you must be having some pretty high cylinder pressures to blow an hg on low boost that fast...dont learn easy do ya?

 

Did you get it tuned this last time?
Coolant leaking into your block...You mean leaking into your cylinders? Or mixing with the oil?

 

might want to resurface the head and block and try copper spray... from runing as hot as you did when it blew it coulda warped

 

i dont know what went wrong this time. There is like a oil paste in my catch can tubes and it looks like a mix of coolant and oil. The radiator has been leaking from the cap and the over flow is full when the car is on. so looks like im getting bypass into the water jackets which is creating pressure in the radiator.

the car still runs and drive good. just has a problem with cold starts. I did get dyno tuned and ive been running 10psi with a redline of 7200.

 

it hasnt blown really its just not sealing. it must be a slow leak cause the car runs with no problems. there isnt any oil in the radiator.

taking the head off tomorrow and going to replace the gasket just to be safe.

I was using a 0.60 thickness. is that to think?

 

I think this is your second "pro" built" block that went to *****. I understand wanting to do it all on your own. My first engine build was a 375hp 396bbc. I was 15 and didnt know that rods stretch it was a seven dollar issue that caused me to have to tear the whole motor down and redu in less than two weeks i was back drivin it like you i would rap it out till the valves floated. Motor outlasted the car.
Find something cheaper to learn your own tuning on and engine building. they are really two different disciplines some master both over years. some master none.1. READ MORE BOOKS FROM THE BEST IN THE CAR WORLD. 2. ASK MORE QUESTIONS 3. IF YOU WOULD OF BEEN CHECKING PLUGS AFTER EACH DRIVE YOU WOULD OF SEEN THIS. hope this helps.

 

did you have the block and head resurfaced.

 

ya they both were resurfaced before putting together and then when the piston went the block was resurfaced and the head was checked and was good.

Im thinking a air got into the water jackets because of the leaking cap and a hot spot formed because the temperature was always good. never went past its normal spot which is around 190.

I can drive the car right now still and its fine. so it wasn't like the gasket blew.

I didnt retorq the headstuds this time around. thinking maybe cause the gasket is so much thicker then the first time that it does need a retorq?

 

Some gaskets do require a re-torque. MLS gaskets generally dont though. I know that overheating will easily kill an h22. After blowing a rad hose off and replacing the cracked H22, then blowing the hose off again (reused) and warping the head, my friend finally did it the right way. Decked the block and head, Cometic MLS HG (not my idea), arp headstuds. Ran PERFECT until she blew a heater hose off and "limped" it off the parking lot, and now it blows white smoke out the breather and tailpipe.

Not a week previous I had insisted going to an OBD1 setup and changing it to have overheat protection. I know that saved my B16 until I replaced the bad t-stat and radiator.

 

ok so i took the head off. Turns out it was warped a little like .006

so now it was resurfaced.
Now im on the issue of, if the head was warped...the block might be too.
the block is still connected to trans and everything else in the car.
I ordered new arp studs

so now im just trying to find a straight edge so i can check the block myself since i really dont want to take it out of the car

I guess my last mechanist didn't straight edge the head like he was suppose to

 

Or, you overheated it with the leaking cap, and warped it that way?

 

ya that was my original theory. at least the head is good now. it passed the pressure test.

anyone have any opinion on this turbo manifold. I think i might order it this weekend
http://www.spoolinperformance.com/sp...4ac-p-752.html

Its the only manifold i can find that is a/c and p/s

 

hell ya get it, try and get the matching dumpipe and downpipe unless they arent a issue for U. I kept my ac/ps on my B and talk about 10 pounds of **** in a 5 pound bag. aka really tight tolerances if you want 3"dp. Gets expensive with the flex and all but i think it would function better getting all the turbo related exhaust from one place.

 

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practice makes perfect dont let any1 discourage you its your time and money remember that and take time and check,recheck and check again that all the parts are within/and installed within specs

gotta learn some how but atleast your asking questions and sticking to it i like that. post more pics

check those inj's

 

alright ill post some good pictures tonight

 

I got the manifold and downpipe last week and the wastegate didnt fit with the alternator. I had to send it back. The welder is going to fix it for free and paid for shipping so its all good. Its a very nice manifold. very good quality. A++ cant wait to get it back.

The head is back onto the black and everything is on except intercooler piping and valve cover. The next issue i am having is that i keep blowing the efi, ecu fuse. I guess there is a short somewhere. havent really looked but something inside the car started smoking really bad when i went to start the car.
what sucks is that I did the fuel pump, converted to external coil, and put the head back into the car. so its not like i can say oh, i only messed with the fuel pump so that must be the problem.
It's whatever right now. Nothing is ever easy for me.