Blue94Accord

Soo is it just me or does it seem like every time i fix something, something else brakes??

I have a built H22 on boost. First H22 was stock and I melted a hole in the piston. ok that sucked but i wasnt tuned so my fault. Decided to go all out on the next H and got it fully built. Darton sleeves, cp low comp pistons, pauter rods, skunk2 head. arp headstuds. bla bla bla..

swapped it in. Had a 5k rev limit for 1000miles to break in the sleeves like darton says. at 900miles i retorq head studs to 80lb's. Everything good to go. No problems ran great.

Was in the middle of tuning when a knock formed while going up to 8k rpm for the 2nd time.
Car seemed fine except that it got a little hot. drove normal on the way back to the shop. Popped the hood and there was anti freeze everywhere.

thought maybe the valve adjustment was off so i adjusted the valves and started the car and the knock was still there.(slow knock, pretty positive its in the head). changed the LMA's and still a knock. so im stumped. got a little mad and decide to drive the car with the mind set of the knock will either fix itself or brake. Pushed 8lb for about 20min. drivin around everything was perfect, a/f, temp, idle was good. Got a little antsy and up'd the boost to around 15lb's

did a 2nd,3rd,4th pull shifted to Neutral and car shut off. While coasting to a stop and pulling over i noticed the water temp was full red. Popped the hood and antifeeze everywhere again. Thinking maybe the cap was bad and leaking.

Pushed the car home cause i was real close to home.Car wouldnt start, Took the spark plugs out and cylinder 4 plug was melted shut.water in the oil pan, Took the head off and headgasket was all warped and my cp piston disintegrated down to the rings. darton sleeve all nasty with shavings melted to the top of the wall and valves.

I guess my plan now is to bore out to 88mm buy a set of arias pistons resurface the block and head and try again but get a really good dyno tune this time. and a egt gauge

noww are there other people who go through the problems that i have or is it just me. I lost a lot of motivation in my car and wanted to sell it at one point.
Its just problem after problem...broke 2 axles, broke trans, melted piston, blew a timing belt, melted another piston...

Any experience people here have any advise? My bro told me to get a better ecu cause i have a p28 chipped. Im def getting dyno tuned this time around. This is my first build btw

david974

bad tune or bad injector on the broken cylinder

Glove

dude... you have no one to blame but yourself in every instance here. Gotta stop getting exited and blowing your load too early. Pay a shop to do everything for you before you touch the car.

rich7777

What a shame, this could of been a real good build...

lunareg

really sounds like if you heard something not running right you shouldnt have just turned up the boost and hope it fixed itself.

on a side note I really feel your pain, every time I fix something on my car, something else is broken. Just bought this thing acouple weeks ago and im approaching on spending what i paid for it on repairs lol.

bOoStEd_180e

agree with david974

HiProfile

All the failed CP pistons from a while back were from oil - at least that's what CP said.

Bad valve seals lets oil into the cylinder, which burns much hotter than normal, which allows it to knock much easier. That ends up melting the pistons near the intake side.

As for the tuning aspect, people will generally start with a conservative basemap. It takes very little harsh knocking to **** a motor over. On the flip side, it also takes very little knock over a long time (1000 miles?) to screw stuff up.

Then, adding both ideas together - running untuned for 1000 miles where it's pig-rich in some areas and pings in others can wash out your rings & hurt ringlands, letting oil into the cylinder. Then starts the melt-down process...



Unless pictures of the pistons, cylinder head, etc are posted, there's not a whole lot you'll gain from this thread.

Blue94Accord

ill post pictures in 3 hours. My friend took the camera to work to show his friends what I did to the piston lol

now the whole knock thing. I drove about 50miles on a basemap before getting tuned. Everything was good like the wide band and other gauges.
Drove to 1200miles and went to the same guy who tuned it the first time. He took the 5k rev limit off that i had on for the longest time so I wouldn't be tempted. The he told me to put it in 3rd and full throttle till he tells me to stop. vtec felt a little weak. So we did it again and went up to 8 again. car shut off after I went to neutral. Put it in 5th and popped the clutch. coasting to the off ramp I could heard the knock. The tune was unfinished cause it was only the second pull. He said it would be fine to drive home though. Put maybe 10 more miles on it to get home and that was about it.

The first thing I thought was bad radiator cap started the overheating. Then I thought bad head gasket caused cap to burst and overheat. Now im not to sure

You can tell by looking that the piston skirts were rubbing on the walls. Would that because the wall clearance was not right?
With oil in the piston wouldnt it smoke? cause there was no smoke at all

crucian

Why did he start trying to tune VTEC if that was the first tune? Primary cam map should have been the only thing should have try to tune. Atleast that's what I do. I never tune VTEC without getting the primary stage done first. Then move on to the transition stage, then full blown VTEC pull.

turbociv910

x2.... the car isnt going to fix it self by adding more boost.

you deserve it for your ignorance.

Blue94Accord

I dont think he was tuning vtec. I think he was just doing the full throttle tune for the wideband. The very first tune was just idle and partial throttle tune. Then after my 1000mile i went back for the full throttle tune.

turbociv910

what ems?

Blue94Accord

Chipped p28 chrome....another friend of mine already told me that a chipped ecu cant keep up with the timing and I should have gotten a standalone comp. i dont have the money for that tho. Anything else I could get?

Blue94Accord

Theres 2 reasons why I didn't dyno right from the beginning.
1) I wanted to get the 1000miles break in done(which if i ever build again I wont cause its the biggest waste of time, 50miles is good enough).
2) I didn't want to go to a local shop cause this build was top secret. Only 3 of my closest friends knew I was built during the break it. So i was planning on going to a shop in Orlando or Miami and not around my town so that no one would talk.

Pictures will be up in an hour

Sanford727

Lol secret squirrel build? guess i dont understand the ligic in it but to each its own

kyden

sounds like no one has any idea what they're doing.

twkdCD595

Your friend is not correct. You dont need an EMS or something stand alone to get it done on your setup. I am a hondata fan personally as thats what I run by choice but generally speaking a chipped ecu with proven management is fine for what your doing.

Blue94Accord

Before ;D

After

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cylinder 4 valves

HiProfile

A p28 using CROME can't keep up with ignition retard on small-bore D16's. Everything other motor, or using S300/eCtune/Neptune, or using the CROME code that removes hidden timing advance, and a P28 will be fine.



Now to the pictures: can you tell if those deposits are 100% aluminum, or mostly crusties from burning oil? On motors that burn oil, you'll find a very thick layer of that stuff on the valves and sometimes the head material too.

Blue94Accord

Im pretty sure its all aluminum. None of it is magnetic.

LOrangeH22hatch

iTrader: (1)

looks like a possible injector failure, I would send the injectors to RC and have them flowed and balance.

About Crome. It will work fine on your set up if properly tuned. I have a fully built H22 turbo making 500whp+ on pump gas that I tuned on Crome Gold.

vwbased

have a nice day

Blue94Accord

No idea on what the gap is. A shop in California built the block. not sure on any specs. besides being 87mm. You can def see that the piston skirts were rubbing on the sleeve. Could have been a bad build from the start. Its just weird that the motor was real healthy and ran so good before I started poppin vtec

The plan for tomorrow is to pull the block and take it up to a local shop and see what they think they can do. Im probably going to bore out to 88mm and get a set of pistons again and start fresh. take the head up to another shop and get it resurfaced. Hopefully the valves are still good.


any other advise?

vwbased

have a nice day

Blue94Accord

hmm...Im wondering if I maxed out the injector duty cycle while boosting. I was running 550cc RC's at the time and my tuner guy said that they were already at a high duty cycle when we were only doing 5k pulls at 7psi.

Thinking maybe when i boosted 14psi at 7k rpm it could have been to much for the injectors to keep up cause it to go lean under boost. The wall on the other pistons were marked up like they were rubbing. could have expanded under the heat?
Just another theory.

After I get it rebuilt Im going to tow my car down to miami to a shop that charges 500$ flat rate for a full tune. A friend of mine recommended them. Ill find the name of the shop tomorrow