How about you just don't drive it at all until you tune it. And go to a well known tuner.

 

how can you be so stupid?... was tuned on 7 psi but turned up to 15???


i feel sorry for the engine, not you.

 

From the looks of it, it seems like the lack of tuning (tuning correctly) caused your problems. Not saying it is a tuner problem, seems like a boost cut would have saved you. Looks like all the cylinders got hot.


Take the bearings out and measure them width wise on the top of the bearing and the middle of it too.

 

post your tune, what was the timing at.

 

I think i know what happened..

I took the intake manifold off and there was water still inside. and a nice stream of oilish color antifreeze running down the intake tube all the way into the intake valves.
Another problem I had was my turbo inlet was right next to my radiator and I couldnt fit a filter on it.
I think the cap leaked a good amount of antifreeze and the turbo sucked it right into the intake manifold and into the chamber. warm water on a 2000degree piston could cause it to crack and break. Most of the water went into the closest intake running which was the cylinder that broke.

Does that theory make better sense? cause if the piston to wall clearance was off then just the bottom of the piston skirt would be marked up because thats the largest part of the piston....idk

 

You should never drive an engine on a 'basemap', It needs to be dialed in from the second you start it. You don't need a well known tuner, just someone who knows what the heck they are doing, I know plenty of people who are great tuners who are not 'well known'. Its not rocket science, and to many its just a hobby, so lots of people aren't well known.

It sounds like no one has any idea whats going on. You need to get it tuned by someone who knows what their doing, and if your engine starts doing strange things.. IE, knocking, ticking, running hot, pushing coolant into the bay, its time to STOP until you find out exactly what the problem is.

You said at more boost you would push it until the problem went away, or broke, and guess what.. You got exactly what you wanted, it broke.

 

Well, what really happened was that I adjusted the valves and replaced the LMA's and the knock was still there. So i went to see if vtec was hitting. just doing wastegate pressure, vtec was working and the car was beast. so I did a couple pulls. no problems. So i was coming back home and right on the last stretch of road before my house I pushed it again. and then everything happened.

anyways. does anything agree with the water theory? or is it more like running lean? which my wideband was fine at wot

 

Sounds like a bunch of fail on your part and the tuners part

 

have a nice day

 

so what do you think caused it? bad piston gap, tune, ?

Nothing still does not explain the knock. and the car did run at all after it overheated so I would think that the water got sucked up during the last pull..

 

now, how should i break in the new pistons and rings when I get everything back together. Do the 15min idle and change the oil and then should i tow the car right to the tuner or should i do the 20miles to break the rings in and then tune?

 

If i had to say what happen BAD TUNE
was the knock at idle and normal driving or inboost
did you know that a bad tune will cause a knock and over heating, when left untreated will cause a burnt piston or valve

 

This.

 

but everyone says you need at least 20miles to break in the motor. Is the tuner going to tune the car for the start and then have me drive the 20miles and then they dyno? I dont think they can break it in on the dyno. idk. like i said before this is my first build

 

There is nothing wrong with breaking in a car on the dyno. There are plenty of people that do it with no problems. Most of the break in happen while the car is reaching temps. I use to wander the same thing. I have talk to alot of engine builders that have race cars that run the same engine year after year these cars have never seen the street. the only thing that has to break in is your rings. If your bore and hone is correct your engine will break in very fast.

 

no...get it started,check for leaks,tow it to a (GOOD)tuner...if he is worth a crap he will know the rest...

 

took the turbo manifold off and 3 ports were soaked. I think its antifreeze with a mix of carbon gases. That bad cylinder looks oil soaked. oil could have been bypassing the rings.

another question. if i can just hone out the sleeves and buy one piston should i? or Should I go to 88mm and order a new set of pistons?
When i take it to the shop ill know for sure what im going to do. I just want other people opinions.

 

IMHO I think you need to really take your car to a knowledgable shop...you really dont have a clue what you are doing which will continue to cost you rediculous amounts of money in the long run......

 

I made it this far without to many problems and im not the type to just hand my keys and my wallet to a shop and have them call me when they're done.

but i def learned my lesson with tuning. Ill let you guys know how everything goes. Ill have it running in 2 weeks

 

I agree, mabe the injector "stack"

You must check the wires that lead to the injector that stands at the melted cyllinder.

Is the 2nd time that the same cyllinder melts?

 

in for resaults .

sorry to hear about your engine.

 

completely different H22.



I don't think the injectors had anything to do with it.

 

you mean besides the fact that you melted down 2 different motors? if ya got money to burn then by all means continue on,i love seeing pics of carnage...

 

the first motor was bad internally from the start and was going to brake boost or n/a.

 

Your problem had nothing to do with your coolant getting into the turbo.

Put the car back together is get it fully tuned and have the tuner put a boost cut on it to save the same problem happening again.