Here is my question, assuming I am putting new pistons and rods in my ZC, what is the MAX boost that can be run on pump gas (Intercooled), assuming average skills of the tuner with the Hondata. Now I know by lowering the static compression ratio you can dial in more boost but you loose off boost power. But a higher static compression ratio makes for higher cylinder pressures and engine knock. This is a 100% street driven car and has to run reliably on pump gas, in this area 93 octane. This is a reasonibly low dollar project I am considering. Sleeving the block is out of the budget, and as I understand it that is needed at higher boost levels than can be run on pump gas anyway. I can figure out most of the details through the search function, but these are my primary two Questions, What compression ratio should I start with and how much total boost can I run with 93 Octane fuel. I don't know if there are any Super good tuners near me, there are tuners but most have had bad things said about them by someone or other. I'm talking the DC meto area. Tanks for any input.

 

Guess I baffled the guru's on this one. I'm trying to see what I can do to get the most out of 93 octane. I know throw in Racing fuel and I have much more potential. But since this is a street driven car the 93 octane requirement is imprortant. Due to the milage I drive, and how its driven.

 

I would look into a Zdyne setup since Hondata only works with the PR3/PW0 OBD0 ecus. I would think you could run safely around 15 psi before cracking a sleeve but I am not too sure what the limits are on the d series sleeves though.

 

Ok, but will you be detonating at 15 PSI on 93 octane. Assuming its properly tuned. And now you mention it, You are right, it is a OBD-0 engine thats Z-dyne Hondata was for the OBD-1 and 2. Like I said, ultimate power isn't the target, just ultimate power that can be achieved on 93 octain gas. Racing gas isn't exactly common along the interstates. And I go through 1-2 tanks of gas a week. I have a ZC with a JDM ZC ECU right now, and a ZC transmission. Live in an area of fairly strict emmissions laws and may end up deciding this is more trouble than its worth. I don't have a small fortune to spend. But want this well thought out before I spend a single dollar. A turbo set up could cost me more than my total investment in this car so far. And knowing the boost limits I can begin to understand the mods requied to achieve them reliably. I don't race so the fuel limitations mean a lot to me, more than ultimate power the motor is capible of.

[Modified by virginia_dude, 2:11 PM 11/4/2002]


[Modified by virginia_dude, 2:16 PM 11/4/2002]

 

I would only boost 10 psi then. Given your budget I would keep it consevative if you don't want it to become a money pit.

 

No, I don't need a money pit. I knew if you got as high as 15 psi you were in the sleve the block territory, but thought you needed more than 93 octain to get that high without detonation. If I am keeping it under 10 I can probibly get away without the expense of rods and pistons but I know at 10 psi I am probibly pushing my luck. reason being is engine is running great as it is, just would like a bit more seat of the pants acceleration when I want it. NOS it too expensive for how often I would want it. So if I keep it to 10 then a T-25 is a good choice for great spoolup and since I won't be boosting in the 15+ range won't run into the limits of the T-25. Now if I can figure out the AFC hack thing. But standalone is the way to go, guess that would give me fewer drivability issues, and make the inevitable emmissions test easier to deal with, I drive this car for work also which is why the budget. I have to be able to build and drive this car for less than 33 cents a mile operating costs, including insurance. Can't do that with racing gas. And since most miles are work miles and not fun miles. reliability and drivability means more than ultimate power. And avoid Borg-Warner clutches whoever reads this, they will not hold a full power shift with a stock ZC without slipping heavily, no way is it up to any boost.



[Modified by virginia_dude, 2:45 PM 11/4/2002]

 

IMO,

I would boost 8 psi. Sounds like you need this baby to last. 8 psi is fun and can drive easily year round. 10 psi in snow would be undrivable and dangerous.

T-25 will work fine. For maximum reliability sleeve, pistons and rods and 8-10 psi will last a long time. Of course, Zdyne is required.

Randy

 

Hey guy how's It going, I know exactly where you are from, I'm a native Pennsylvanian myself, from Near Bellvernon Pa. about 40 miles south of Pittsburgh. let me try to work up the costs on this and see if its doable. With the funds I have at hand. Too much horspower is just enough in my mind, but like in my sig. how fast can you afford to go. and right now thats not very fast. unless I can scrounge some parts real cheap in the wrecking yard. Zdyne and tuning is whats going to be real expensive.

 

personally I agree 10 psi is about the max I would push, on a ZC but.
you can use pump gas & management well into 1 BAR of pressure.
you're kinda asking two different questions here.

1.) Max boost on ZC. -dependant on your internals.

2.) Max boost on pump gas. -compression & timing issues here.

IMO wideband that piece YO!

 

with rods and pistons with the greddy kit that is for the 92-95 civic, on a crx we were maxing out the turbo(anywhere between 21 and 24 pounds) for more than a year and a half with no problems. we used an safc with 550 injectors and an fmu.
the only problem we had was speed shifting from first to second it would shell the second gear teeth off of the mainshaft. this was on pump gas. 8 to 1 compression ratio


[Modified by speedworks, 3:47 AM 11/5/2002]

 

Well I was asking 2 questions, What I didn't know is you you could go over 15 lbs of boost on pump gas. I thought the octane requirements were in excess of 93 at those levels. Now this other fellow was running 20-25lbs of boost thats way, way beyond what I was expecting. I know you are into major engine work at those boost levels. Way beyond what my meager budjet can afford. Blame that on the tax man here in northern virginia where my property taxes have doubled in the last 5 years. And from following this group for most of the last year I know even 15 lbs of boost on stock cyclinder is akin to playing russian roulette. You may get away with it for a while or it may blow up the first time you push it that high. But its going to blow up sooner or later. $2,000 of engine work plus the turbo set up cost is way rich for my blood at this time, Till the high tech industry recovers, IF it recovers. God I bet that thing would be a blast to drive at those kind of boost levels. Getting an adreniline rush just thinking about it.hell even 10 lbs boost would do wonders for get up and go.

Well in reality both of my questions were answered, I know the 93 octane requirements aren't my limiting factor. But how much work and money I am willing to spend on the internals is. I originally was thinking I would have exceded the levels I could run 93 octane gas before hitting the boost limits of the stock cylinders. Since so many people race theirs and run racing gas when they do. Something I am not planning on doing. Being competitive is not easy. When you have 50 lbs on some of the smaller guys here that race. and there is no way I will be 150 lbs without looking like I came out of a concentration camp. Nor do I have the money to throw around with a mortgage to pay. The work for 10 lbs boost I may be able to afford, but no way can I afford the work to pull 20 psi boost. on this engine.