esedulerp5tenin

NO, ITS NOT AN SSAC MANI!!!! before anyone asks. its an hermsfab log mani, and the same weld keeps cracking over and over again.

this was before. the crack went around the entire way, and was so big you could see light thru it:



so then i bought a MIG/flux-cored welder, and attempted to weld the cracks shut. i'm a pretty decent welder, its not my first time. then i bolted on the mani, turbo, and downpipe, and BEFORE starting it up, i noticed the crack was ALREADY coming back... WTFF!!


and two weeks later.... it has only grown. HOW DOES THIS KEEP HAPPENING?!?!




i flux-cored it BTW, i haven't bought the gas to do MIG yet.

onefstek

You need to "v" grove all the way arownd, bolt the manfiold to a head or the welding table to stay straight and then weld it and let it cool before you un bolt it from the head/table.

Stefan

matt94z

That sucks! Did you contact the manufacturer to see if they will warranty it?

th3pwn3r

1. Buy quality manifolds.

2. Your weld cracked.


If you weld garbage back together it's still garbage.

vietjdmboi

I once had a log mani and it would stop cracking either. I talked to the manufacture and he said
That bc its a log mani and it doesn't have a collector to route the flow of exh it just impacts the wall
Causing the welds to fail. I'm not sure if that's real or not. But that's what I was told

EFbomb

pic of it installed with turbo ?

I bet its stress causing the cracks becuase of the weight and vibration.
brace the turbo from the block

esedulerp5tenin

you mean like with an angle grinder? thats gonna be a bitchhhh on the part that faces the head flange.

he basically fell off the face of the earth. says his last login was "Last Activity: 12-31-1969 07:00 PM "
great.

he was a very VERY reputable fab'r when i bought it 3 years ago. nothing big amazing feedback and responses about him.

that sounds like BS hahahha. i doubt exhaust gases have enough force to break welds.

esedulerp5tenin

its the weld above the top-right bolt hole.

sik9sec

Try relief cutting the flange after you reweld the manifold it may help to last a little longer, but most likely it's done.

90sedan

x2

esedulerp5tenin

is that putting a cut into the head flange? for when the flange and tubing sections expand/contract different amounts?

SlowReaction

Correct.

Pikachu

I'd tig weld it for you but it looks like it might crack again though. Hit me up on pm.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Just junk that manifold period bro, its garbage obviously and they dont flow for **** anyhow. you can get an ebay cast log that will flow better and stay in one piece for like 100-150 bucks. some minor mods to the DP and you will back in business

93supercoupe

or buy a good used mini ram or something else tubular and brace it and be done with it.


make mo powa!!!!!!!!!

esedulerp5tenin

i guess this manifold will hafta suffice until i finish building my G22 w/ a top-mount or something from lovefab!

postman

its junk, just trash it. typically on a severe crack i f you cant drill stop both ends of the crack and bevel it some chances are it will come back

Full-Race Geoff

unfortunately these guys are correct. a wise man once said "you cant make chicken salad out of chicken ****"

Flint707

Do you have a flex pipe?

siblues

iTrader: (1)

That looks like the material is failing due to heat failure if you dont want to replace the whole setup just buy a log manifold kit and weld the new one up yourself.

slow96coupe

Do you have a brace on your down pipe? not to bust your ***** but from the look of the setup and welds i would say no.

Brace your down pipe on the tranny on the front of the block and on the back of the block. My full-race manifold cracked when my d/p brace was broke. Fixed it and had no further issues. (this was with a t67 so its a heavy bitch)

JDMs1eeper

Its repairable but doesnt look to be a cheap (if some1 else does it) or easy to fix.

Cut out the 1/4" weld area of pipe and replace with a fresh piece. That area of the material has lost all its integrity.

Those "T" pipes are Sch.40 normally so grab a small stick of 1.5 304L Sch.40. V grove (dremel might be easier to use) the ends and make sure to purge the inner runners while re welding.

It'll be easier and maybe cheaper to just look into another manifold.

esedulerp5tenin

yup its brand new.

good point. no, my DP isn't braced, but i could def see how the weight of the turbo/DP/exhaust could crack it. i guess that'll be my next project, making a brace in my schools machine shop!

yea that's what i'm thinking too. brutal honesty FTW/FTL!