RedR

I broke 3 manifold studs with just a litle over 5k miles since boosted, i did not get new studs and bolts when i installed the turbo, but i sure had to now
I dont know if they broke cuz i overtighten them (dont even know if i did) or if it was just the weight and im not using that big of a turbo compared to the normal H-t standards lol, just a plain t3/t04 60 trim .63 a/r ,so for the guys using heavier turbos and manifolds, are u using stock manifold studs and bolts or aftermarket ones?

TIA

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

most use OEM studs. There is a different reason why your breaking them

DO you have a flex pipe in your exhaust?

Are you sure the manfiold flange is flat and not warped? Are you also sure the manifold flange isn't hitting something on the block and not making it sit flush? I had this problem once and had to shave the block a bit for my full race mani to sit flush.

Did you just muscle them too much? Torqe wrench is a good investment.

Are you engine mounts shot causing your motor to violently move around, therfore, putting stress on the studs cause its connected to your exhaust?

adseguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most use OEM studs. There is a different reason why your breaking them

DO you have a flex pipe in your exhaust?

Are you sure the manfiold flange is flat and not warped? Are you also sure the manifold flange isn't hitting something on the block and not making it sit flush? I had this problem once and had to shave the block a bit for my full race mani to sit flush.

Did you just muscle them too much? Torqe wrench is a good investment.

Are you engine mounts shot causing your motor to violently move around, therfore, putting stress on the studs cause its connected to your exhaust?</TD></TR></TABLE>

All very good reasons , but i switched to bolts and never had a problem since. I think my stock motor mounts at 269trq didn't like the abuse

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you just muscle them too much? Torqe wrench is a good investment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol Coming from the guy who torqued his oil filter threads right out of his block!

RedR

As for the possibilites u mentioned i do have a flex pipe on the dp, the manifold flange is not warped, i did had to cut the 2 upper studs a bit from the 1st and 4th cylinder to make it fit as it was hitting the runners.
As for the motor mounts i´m still using the stock ones, i do have a pretty stiff suspension though if that matters at all lol.
Lets hope these dont break, but first i gotta take out a god damn broken stud that is still in the head.....and the best thing is i cant find the tools anywhere to take it out lol.

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol Coming from the guy who torqued his oil filter threads right out of his block! </TD></TR></TABLE>

low blow....but it was pretty funny!!!

I have over 300 lbs of torque on my daily driven honda, OEM studs, full race ramhorn mani, 3 inch DP, OEM bolts.

So again, I think something else is wrong.

easy out, that will get the bolt out once you drill into it some. You can get those at vatozone, sears, etc...

adseguy

I had to remove like 5 I think over a peiod of time untilk I switched to the bolts.

Here is my method that worked pain free after a lot of troubleshooting how:

1.) Get a drill screw extractor from sears...here's an example http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...e=Yes

2.) Drill a small 1/8" hole in the stud about a half to 1/4 inch deep. Then use the largest screw extractor that will fit into the stud hole.

3.) Push and extract (the reverse drill in so that's how it comes out)

ps: I suggest NOT useing the drill bit extractor as I found them hard to use and I even broke one (plus they are expensive)