Fixable?

 

Whaa? They arent threaded. Whatcho talking bout?

 

Sure they are, these:

 

Oh you mean where the windage baffle secures to? Yeah you can buy a run of the mill helicoil kit at any auto parts store or you could move up a size and retap.

 

I dont know if im being specific enough, the part that holds down the crank. The main bearing cap bolts, the pertaining threads in the block are stripped. Could i just upgrade the bolt size like you said and go bigger?

 

**** that

 

time sert

 

Im a believer in time serts but Mains? No thank you. New block... If it was me.

 

new block, or possibly have a machine shop weld up the hole and drill and tap it again, kind of risky though, let me guess what happened, no torque wrench?

 

Extralargenog- people timesert head bolts which are torqued higher than main bolts. Im sure itll be ok.

He means the main cap bolt threads in THE BLOCK not the CAPS themselves like I previously thought. The main caps themselves aren't threaded.

Def need time serts to fix it. Or take it to a machine shop, drill em out and go bigger, but they will have to match diameter on the girdle too.

 

if a time sert will hold a head at 80ft/lbs, it'll hold a crank at what 56ish?

 

Ya i get it..

 

I was torquing down to 23 lbf-ft (plstigauge) and the bolt just kept spinning.

I know theres play in the girdle with these oe bolts so hopefully it wont be a problem. Im taking the block to a local machineshop after work today, tp try and go bigger.

 

on something critical like this, the best thing to do is bore the hole out oversize, machine an insert to press in the hole, weld it in and machine it flush, then tap it for new threads, this will be as strong as the original block. a good shop can do this for you, I would do it but it wouldn't be cost effective to send the block on a long trip

 

It can be done, what i think the difficult part will be is that there are alignment dowels for each one of the main bolts. so that will be kind of difficult. also a fix for stripped headstud bolts is to use a timesert, but to be done right there is a alignment fixture that bolts to the block to drill and tap for the timeserts. or atleast this is how honda wants it done.

 

the block can be clamped to a bridgeport, the hole centered and it can be done this way

 

i know i am a newb on here, but the timesert kit really does work well. google it and you will see it has a wide range of support for stock/race motors. i used the 7111 kit in my b20a5 block. i did all ten of the headbolt holes. its been together for just over 1000 miles and no worries. i only had two bad holes, but i figured the others wouldn't be that far behind and the timesert rep i spoke with said it would be best to do all ten to provide a more even clamping force as it would be different between the aluminum and the steel insert. for me finding another block wasn't a viable option as these motors are getting harder to find. that and i just had the block tanked and bored for new build.

 

+1 To the Timesert kits. I have used them for a couple different projects, and they haven't failed be yet.