I just finished installing my M&w pro 10 kit (T1). The car will not start now. i triple checked all of my connections. Is there anything in my hondata that i have to change? Coil has power. ign box has power coming my the ecu. is there any lights on the box to indicate that its actually on?

 

reading over my pro-12 instructions, once power is given to the CDI the led will illuminate for 1 second to indicate normal operation then extinguish.

Each consecutive trigger event will then cause the LED to flash briefly.

A repeated double flash of the LED indicates a possible faulty ignition coil, faulty wiring, low supply voltage or damage to the CDI.

This is directly off the instructions!

 

I had a problem with mine. I wasn't thinking and used an accessory wire instead of using an ignition wire. Difference, ign. has 12+ during cranking. Turn the key on and the led on the m&w will come on and then go off and when it's cranking and running the light stays on all the time. Hope that helps.

 

the wires are hooked up correctly....i checked again. the ignition box blinks once when key is turned on but does not blink when cranking. any ideas??

 

Like above person said, make sure you have your power connected to source where it has power all the time when cranking. I had mine connected to radio fuse and my car didnt start.

 

here is a list of where each wire is hooked up to
red wire= battery +
black= good ground
blue= dark blue obd2 dizzy tach wire goin to factory tach. SHOULD THIS CONNECTION BE TEE'D IN INSTEAD OF LEAVING THE ONE END CUT??
silver= Tee'd into pin A25 on obd1 conversion harness
small black= cut wire that goes into pin A21 and soldered small blk wire to the cut wire than goes to ecu

I hooked up dizzy cap as follows:
removed stock cap
removed stock coil
cut the end off the 2 wires that goto stock coil
heat shrink those 2 wires
put dust cover and rotor and msd cap on
hooked spark wire from cap to crane coil


is there sumthing i'm missing???

 

Per Tony's instuctions where does the small Black and Silver go to?

Are you installing this on a OBD2A car or OBD2B?

Yes, you tee into the Blue Tach Wire or you will have no Dash Tach.

 

It seems you're not getting power during cranking or you're not getting a tach signal to the box. Use a multimeter and that will be able to help with all your problems. 12+ during cranking on the ign, and use ac voltage to check the tach signal.

 

im going to get a multimeter and try it. in the meantime i checked the coil with a test light and it has power going to it when key is in the on position. and the ign. box lights up briefly when key is turned on.

 

obd2b


Does the tach wire have to be hooked up in order for the car to run?

 

Dont believe so...the Blue wire is the Tach Output signal from the ignition box.

 

I would check the connection at A21...on a OBD2B ECU the ICM output is B13 which would be Yellow/Green wire on the stock ECU Harness.

 

Is it set to leading or trailing edge pickup correctly, they default to leading as is but you need to bridge 2 terminals together to select trailing edge which is what it requires as it gets inverted from the ecu.

When incorrectly plugged up your timing will be out anywhere from 10-20 degrees and it may not even give it the chance to fire.

Hope this may help, if you have your initial light up, all should be well if your not getting any pickup errors on the hondata.

 

im not sure what you are talking about....leading or trailing edge pickup? can you clarify?

Is there a way to check for errors or check spark thru hondata?

 

i also just used a test light to the + battery and the other end was touching the negative side of the coil and the test light would blink during cranking.... anymore ideas. I cant believe im having problems haha its only 2 wires for the most part and i know they r wired to the correct pin. does anyone else have some ideas? could it be a problem with the ign box??? maybe its fried?

 

on the connector going to ignition box you should see a wire used as jumper. What locations are they in? They should be jumped in pin position 9 and 10

 

A pro 10 can be used in leading and trailing edge pickup modes and you need to bridge wire 9-10 so its in trailing edge mode ( if i remember correctly ) as hondas use a trailing edge trigger.

The only way you can test it is if you get it running and your timing will be 15-20 off but you should still be able to get it running.

 

I think you're confusing people by saying leading and trailing instead of rising and falling.

The box has the jumper for a rising edge trigger, which is what a Honda ecu needs.

OP, you test fired the system by grounding the trigger wire, right? If so, all that's left is the ecu not triggering the M&W, be it an ecu problem or a wiring problem with the trigger.