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I have been shifting through this thread for awhile looking for turbo suited for me.
Set up is stock B18A, arp head studs, 550 injectors, walbro 255, and go-autoworks cast log manifold. Only looking for 300-350whp street car.
It seems I am kind of limited on choices with the log manifold without trimming the block too much.
I am liking the precision 5431 .63ar so far. and garrett 57 trim .63ar (not sure on fitment with the garrett).
I have been shifting through this thread for awhile looking for turbo suited for me.
Set up is stock B18A, arp head studs, 550 injectors, walbro 255, and go-autoworks cast log manifold. Only looking for 300-350whp street car.
It seems I am kind of limited on choices with the log manifold without trimming the block too much.
I am liking the precision 5431 .63ar so far. and garrett 57 trim .63ar (not sure on fitment with the garrett).
Any suggestions on any other turbos? Thanks.
On my last ls setup I had a cheap cast manifold (basically exactly like the goauto one) with a precision 5431 turbo. I ran the turbo with the compressor on the driver side of the car so there was more then enough room between turbo and block. I did need to move my radiator over to make room for the full 3" down pipe I made though.
Here is a pic of the old setup so you can get a better idea of what I'm saying.
On my last ls setup I had a cheap cast manifold (basically exactly like the goauto one) with a precision 5431 turbo. I ran the turbo with the compressor on the driver side of the car so there was more then enough room between turbo and block. I did need to move my radiator over to make room for the full 3" down pipe I made though.
Here is a pic of the old setup so you can get a better idea of what I'm saying.
Thanks for the pic. I did plan on using a civic half radiator and no a/c as well. How much power were you making with the 5431? Looks like no one offers the b compressor housing anymore only e.
Also had people recommend the precision 4831b .63, would that be too small?
Last edited by lando griffin; 04-19-2017 at 07:02 AM.
Thanks for the pic. I did plan on using a civic half radiator and no a/c as well. How much power were you making with the 5431? Looks like no one offers the b compressor housing anymore only e.
Also had people recommend the precision 4831b .63, would that be too small?
I street tuned that car so it was never on a dyno, but based on weight and trap speed the most it made was about 385whp and that was good for 11.0@126 in the 1/4. The only reason I ran a precision turbo on that setup was because I got it used for a good deal. I'm sure there are a lot better options out there though.
How is it going guys, been a while since i posted, but got car back on the dyno now with a top mount set up and gram 1150cc injectors and grams 320lph fuel pump and gtw3476 turbo(garretts 5858 basically), car was tune on 110 octane and at 28psi make 503whp and 369tq.. i was expecting alot more but i guess the turbo was not big enough to flow more on this motor.. car does have a benson sleeves 83mm now and using a supertech headgasket is a new gasket but good to know they hold up..
How is it going guys, been a while since i posted, but got car back on the dyno now with a top mount set up and gram 1150cc injectors and grams 320lph fuel pump and gtw3476 turbo(garretts 5858 basically), car was tune on 110 octane and at 28psi make 503whp and 369tq.. i was expecting alot more but i guess the turbo was not big enough to flow more on this motor.. car does have a benson sleeves 83mm now and using a supertech headgasket is a new gasket but good to know they hold up..
Actually, that exhaust wheel profile of the GTW3476 was more akin to the 5857, and for what you made at that boost pressure level, that was pretty good considering the cylinder head package. As much as you may hate to hear it, I wouldn't bitch about it. That's pretty decent. I don't know what more you could have expected out of that. You may be comparing too many over-rated dynos with that 5858 (which used a modified HPC Turbonetics F1 Profile). You did damn good there. Just enjoy it for what it is.
Actually, that exhaust wheel profile of the GTW3476 was more akin to the 5857, and for what you made at that boost pressure level, that was pretty good considering the cylinder head package. As much as you may hate to hear it, I wouldn't bitch about it. That's pretty decent. I don't know what more you could have expected out of that. You may be comparing too many over-rated dynos with that 5858 (which used a modified HPC Turbonetics F1 Profile). You did damn good there. Just enjoy it for what it is.
Not bitching, i was just specting alittle more comparing to what lightning made on his set up wich is very similar to mine.. but i do like the spool on this turbo and will keep the car as is for a long time.. later i might get a larger turbo like the gtw3884 sounds good.. for now i am just happy to be in the 500whp club...
500whp in a light eg chassis is probably stupid fast. Get some bigger, better tires and I wanna see videos of some highway pulls. Nice work man!
it is super fast, i need to get some radials now for the street and i just finish cutting my front bumper and removing my fog lights to get more air to my radiator.. yesterday driving the car back home coolant temp started getting hot while on the highway.. so this will help.. my downpipe is just to close to my radiator that it gets it hot and before i had not much aor going to it..
Not bitching, i was just specting alittle more comparing to what lightning made on his set up wich is very similar to mine.. but i do like the spool on this turbo and will keep the car as is for a long time.. later i might get a larger turbo like the gtw3884 sounds good.. for now i am just happy to be in the 500whp club...
Oh, you were nowhere near what Lightening was doing with the turbocharger he had at the time. The turbo he had was easily over 20lbs/min higher airflow conversion than what your GTW3674 was. Completely different compressor/exhaust wheel setup.
I'm just glad you're in a nice LS setup with an EG doing well. So, my apologies if I thought that you were bitching about it.
Spun a bearing guys, for some unknown reason the main cap number 2 holding the crankshaft broke and that cause the bearing to spun and scratch my crankshaft.. i am do for a complete rebuild with another crank.. i have never seen thay happen before broken main cap..
https://ibb.co/dn5uqv
Last edited by Turbo Bseries; 05-31-2017 at 08:55 PM.
My LS setup
Built block stock sleeves
CP Pistons 9:1
Eagle rods
Brian Crower stage 3 all motor cams
Billet Gt35
Blackworks Ramhorn
K20 Coils
Stock LS trans with Mfactory LSD
Tuned by myself with Haltech Elite 1000
475whp @21psi on 93oct
My LS setup
Built block stock sleeves
CP Pistons 9:1
Eagle rods
Brian Crower stage 3 all motor cams
Billet Gt35
Blackworks Ramhorn
K20 Coils
Stock LS trans with Mfactory LSD
Tuned by myself with Haltech Elite 1000
475whp @21psi on 93oct
I'm used to tuning with hondata flashpro and am familiar with AEM(expensive!) from dealing with my bffs turbo j32 but the only reason I really wanted to go hondata is I've looked at the software and it's very close to flashpro and very easy to use... I've tuned about 20 or so cars on flashpro..
Friend and I got everything tuned on 11 psi for right now. Ran into an odd issue.
after doing full throttle pulls the MAP sensor CEL would come on and everything would go rich every. Turn key off and back on (while rolling) and the light would go off and AFRs would go back to normal.
light never comes on during a pull only after. I could do 2nd 3rd 4th pull together and it won't come on in between the shifts but at the end of the 4th gear pull.
P75 Hondata s300 v3. MSD 3 bar map sensor and I've tried a different brand MSD 3 bar map sensor with no luck...obd0 to obd1 conversion harness
Wiring for the sensor looks good but I'll have to check continuity at the sensor and the ecu. Haven't done that yet... anyone else ever had this issue? Partial throttle it doesn't happen.
thanks guys!
Last edited by pushinlsteg; 06-16-2017 at 03:35 AM.
Reason: Forgot.
Friend and I got everything tuned on 11 psi for right now. Ran into an odd issue.
after doing full throttle pulls the MAP sensor CEL would come on and everything would go rich every. Turn key off and back on (while rolling) and the light would go off and AFRs would go back to normal.
light never comes on during a pull only after. I could do 2nd 3rd 4th pull together and it won't come on in between the shifts but at the end of the 4th gear pull.
P75 Hondata s300 v3. MSD 3 bar map sensor and I've tried a different brand MSD 3 bar map sensor with no luck...obd0 to obd1 conversion harness
Wiring for the sensor looks good but I'll have to check continuity at the sensor and the ecu. Haven't done that yet... anyone else ever had this issue? Partial throttle it doesn't happen.
thanks guys!
scalar and offset setting was wrong for my map sensor in s300... got it!
To all you guys out there boosting the good old b18b blocks. I am wondering if align boring and using a torque plate while honing a block on this series block is necessary. I have read so many articles on this and it seems that I am left asking all of you if you did or didnt at your power level and what problems you have had. My block is in great shape and has never spun a bearing or cracked a sleeve... but I just pulled the original stock block out and pulled it apart to build it for a nice street car at 350 whp. My machine shop specialist says that for this kind of a build at this power level that if the block did need an align bore then its usually just cheaper to buy a new block... I have to say that I took this as being honest as he could of told me the opposite. What have you all done? Did you wish you put $1200 down on sleeves for this kind of power level?
To all you guys out there boosting the good old b18b blocks. I am wondering if align boring and using a torque plate while honing a block on this series block is necessary. I have read so many articles on this and it seems that I am left asking all of you if you did or didnt at your power level and what problems you have had. My block is in great shape and has never spun a bearing or cracked a sleeve... but I just pulled the original stock block out and pulled it apart to build it for a nice street car at 350 whp. My machine shop specialist says that for this kind of a build at this power level that if the block did need an align bore then its usually just cheaper to buy a new block... I have to say that I took this as being honest as he could of told me the opposite. What have you all done? Did you wish you put $1200 down on sleeves for this kind of power level?
For the power of 350whp i wont waste money on sleeves.. a simple piston and rod combo will do that and be reliable... Sleeves is something you will want after the 450whp mark to be safe... There are plenty of people making 500whp+ safely on stock sleeves..
On that note, if you can afford to sleeve the block do it, power is addictive and after you get use to 350hp you will want more and having sleeves already gives you that assurance to make more power safely in the future.. if not and all u want is 350 to low 400s keep the stock sleeves they will hold fine with a good tune.
To all you guys out there boosting the good old b18b blocks. I am wondering if align boring and using a torque plate while honing a block on this series block is necessary. I have read so many articles on this and it seems that I am left asking all of you if you did or didnt at your power level and what problems you have had. My block is in great shape and has never spun a bearing or cracked a sleeve... but I just pulled the original stock block out and pulled it apart to build it for a nice street car at 350 whp. My machine shop specialist says that for this kind of a build at this power level that if the block did need an align bore then its usually just cheaper to buy a new block... I have to say that I took this as being honest as he could of told me the opposite. What have you all done? Did you wish you put $1200 down on sleeves for this kind of power level?
I bought my sleeved long block from someone else.
when I buy a block or motor from anyone the first thing I do is tear it down and rebuild it. Well the first thing I noticed was some drag trying to hand spin the crank without the rods... then I noticed odd looking main bearing wear when disassembling. Whoever built it must of used a different crank with that block and didn't get it line bored.
So in my case I had to get an align bore. Any other motor I've ever had if the mains looked good and the crank spun freely by hand I continued with the build.
I also agree you will not need sleeves for a 350whp build although I would make sure you have a good tuner or know what you are doing if you are tuning it.
To all you guys out there boosting the good old b18b blocks. I am wondering if align boring and using a torque plate while honing a block on this series block is necessary. I have read so many articles on this and it seems that I am left asking all of you if you did or didnt at your power level and what problems you have had. My block is in great shape and has never spun a bearing or cracked a sleeve... but I just pulled the original stock block out and pulled it apart to build it for a nice street car at 350 whp. My machine shop specialist says that for this kind of a build at this power level that if the block did need an align bore then its usually just cheaper to buy a new block... I have to say that I took this as being honest as he could of told me the opposite. What have you all done? Did you wish you put $1200 down on sleeves for this kind of power level?
I'm just past two years on a 400whp stock block/sleeve combo. Forged rods/pistons, but the block itself is stock. No need for sleeves/line boring at that level if the block has never seen prior damage.
Agreed for this HP level, as long as the cylinder sleeves have never seen any other damage, you don't need aftermarket sleeves for 400whp. Simply add your Forged Piston/rod combination and hone the cylinders for proper piston to wall clearance and go.
hi there ladies and gents
name is donn
i am new here
i am currently rebuilding a b18b3
just a question?
the block has astand out pipe/cilinder, what is its purpose and does it have anything to do with its cooling system?
04-18-2017, 07:22 PM
Re: LST / LS-T Turbo B18A B18B setups
Re: LST / LS-T Turbo B18A B18B setups