Craigteal11

I have a freshly built ls vtec turbo, completely new bottom end, all forged and gsr head that has had a valve job with new guides, seals and valves. I have all new gaskets, seals,... Everything. Car starts right up, runs smooth with no visible leaks. I drove the car 20 miles then it wouldn't start. I pulled the plugs to see a cylinder full of coolant, so I pulled the head and changed the blown head gasket. Threw on a new gasket, put it all back together then it still wouldn't start. Tested the compression and it was only 60 in cylinders 1-3 and 90 in the forth. So I ran a leak down test and had air coming from the TB in cylinder 1 and bubbles in the radiator in cylinder 2. So I pulled the head back off, checked the valve seals and seats and pulled the 2nd piston, checked the piston itself, the rings, and the cylinder wall, all were fine. I slapped it all back together, flushed all the fluids and refilled it and it started right up. I let it run for 30 mins then drove it about 10 miles. The next day I went to start it up and it started but it hesitated. So I pulled the 2nd spark plug and @#*k, it's covered in oil. Does anyone have any idea what it can be or what I can do to fix it. Thanks in advance

TanEJ1

Sound like you might have a cracked head under the lost motion assembly...

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

Did you ever have the head tested to see if it was not warped?
You've either got a fucky block or head, one of the two has some major issues.

tony_2018

You'll need to the head inspected. You first had coolant in the cylinders, now you have oil. Clear sign of something is not true, or within spec.

Craigteal11

Yes, the head was just redone with new valves, guides and seals and I just recently had it resurfaced. I will pull the springs tomorrow and see if I can find a crack.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Stock sleeves? if not one could have sunk.

also you need to check the head and block mating surfaces to check that they are flat.. a straight edge will work. the head needs to come off regardless.

It's also possible that a valve guide wasn't installed properly or a valvestem seal is causing the oil leak... either that or it's the cylinder head being cracked.

coolant could be headgasket or you could have a vacuum line and coolant line flipped... I've seen this problem a lot more than you'd think.

Craigteal11

The block does not have stock sleeves, and I'll check the deck with a straight edge today. I've also thought that maybe I have some lines crossed but I can't figure out which ones if I do.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Whose sleeves are in it and who did the machine work/install and when? a sunk or deformed sleeve could very well be your issue.

is any oil in the coolant? it could have started out that one or more sleeves sunk a small bit causing the coolant leak and over pressurized cooling system. if the sleeve then continued to sink and/or somehow got off center in the block then it could have broken or damaged the seal at the bottom of the water jacket and crankcase allowing oil in that way or it could have caused a ring sealing issue that allowed large amounts of oil to seep past the rings.

although it doesn't fully explain your problems and how they progressed.

as far as switching lines look around the back of the block, intake manifold, and throttle body. I've seen people confuse the iacv lines and tb coolant lines with vacuum lines. if enough coolant enters a cylinder long enough and fast enough it can wash the rings causing oil to enter the cylinder.

how much oil is on top of the piston and where is it, like around the outside or in the center of the piston?

I'm leaning more towards an issue with the sleeves or a problem with a valvestem seal or valve guide. problem is it's hard to tell until you pull the head off and start checking things. I would definitely have the head pressure tested, check the mating surfaces, and check the installed height of the guides in the affected cylinders. at least one or more thing has/have gone wrong.

Craigteal11

I had eagles sleeves put in in march by a local machine shop and I have only put about 35 miles on this block because this is the second time it has done this, excluding the first time when the head gasket blew. That's the only time coolant was mixed with oil but never has oil gotten into the coolant.

I will check the lines in a little bit and see if maybe I crossed them somewhere, hopefully that's the issue.

There isn't much oil in the cylinder but enough to coat the spark plug and make the car hesitant to start. But the oil is more towards the center of the piston. I can see it thru the spark plug hole before I pulled the head off.

I'm going to take the head to have it tested either today or tomorrow and I will let you know the results. I'm really hoping everything checks out on it and I just crossed some lines like you said. And I will check the block surface today and see if it's badly warped.

You wouldn't happen to have a diagram or anything on how the lines should be connected would you? I have a b18a1 block with a p72 head.