ok I have a B18B long block sitting in my garage and I've decided I'm going to buy a integra or civic in about 4-6 months and boost the ls. now my goals is to achieve 290-320whp. now will the stock internals hold up to the power or will they NEED upgraded? what needs upgrade motor wise? I'll be using the goautoworks turbo kit. walbro 255lph 880cc precision injectors . and I'll be tuning with hondata or neptune I haven't decided which one yet.

 

If the engine is healthy your power goal is doable on stock internals with a good tune. Although I would recommend upgrading to at least ARP head studs. Generally speaking 300whp is the safe limit on stock b series internals. Hondata and Neptune are both good tuning options. Just check with your tuner and find out what they prefer. Good luck.

 

I put down 293whp on a unknown mileage b18b1 with arp head studs. 60 trim turbo, 14 psi, ebay cast manifold. ur injectors are overkill imo but will work. I was using 450ccs on my setup, nearly maxed.

 

How long did your set up last Travis?

 

You will be fine, I have almost your exact set up (or the one you want) and I put down 305whp on a basically bone stock motor. Just added ARP studs and head gasket. Everything else was just a refreshing like new belts, oil pump seals etc.

Motor: B18B1
Turbo: Go-Autoworks kit
Pump: Walboro 255
Injectors: 1000cc Plan on making more power a few years down the road (why buy twice)
ECU: Hondata S300

 

ok so I used a couple injector size calculators and I'll be using 680cc precision injectors. would it be worth upgrading throttle body and intake manifold? would it be worth upgrading valve train and cams?

 

a good 2000 miles until I cracked a sleeved. I have a feeling the crack was getting bigger and bigger overtime since I had extremely dirty coolant, even after replacing the headgasket and resurfacing the head. (I think I was getting exhaust gases into the coolant under boost) But none the less, it should last if tuned properly.

upgrading intake manifold and throttle body? valve train? no. Because you can hit your goal without any mods and just more boost. like I said, my b18b1 longblock was 100% stock minus the arp head studs.

 

Upgrade the clutch! and you will also need a MAP sensor!

My 300,000 mile ls made 269 whp ( on a mustang dyno ) all stock not even head studs, with a inline pro log manifold, and a ebay.48 AR.

 

Nice can't wait to get my set up done . I'm just waiting on some oil lines and couple ends and odds

 

ok this will be my setup. let me know if something isnt necessary or if it would be a good idea to add something.
-B18B
-gsr lsd trans
-competition stage 4 sprung clutch set
-goautoworks "street" turbo kit
*garrette gt28 63 a/r
*2.5" down pipe
*tial 50mm q bov
*tial 38mm wastegate
*dump tube
*charge piping
*intercooler
*oil line kit
*cast iron manifold
-walbro 255lph fuel pump
-precision 680cc injectors
-3 bar map sensor
-arp head studs
-moroso oil pan (so I don't have to mess with drilling oem oil pan)
-hondata s300

would a low temp thermostat be a good idea?

 

the moroso pans are pretty notorious for leaking around the gasket....

you dont need a low temp thermostat. you can control the temps a bit better through the hondata dictating when the fan comes on.

you also might want to consider a bit bigger turbo. i think those 28's start to run out of steam around 350whp if i remember from years ago. if you ever decide to do anything to the motor to make a bit more power you would have to get a different turbo. some kind of ramhorn or mini ram style will also help out with making power.

overall you seem to have a good handle on this, and im sure it will turn out great.

 

Im doing same setup basically except I have B18A1 longblock. Also have B20z head (not p8r..pr4 i think). Not to thread jack, but would it be ok to run the B20 cams, as my ls head is missing only cams lol. Also anyone know when the stock fuel pump runs out of steam? Thanks and gl to op.

 

i have friends who have made mid 200's for hp on a stock pump without running lean (wideband verified).

for 100 bucks though the walbro is the best thing you can do. they dont even take an hour to change out either.

the usdm b20b or low comp jdm b20 cams suck ***, well at least the intake cam does.
they are the reason those b20s fall on their *** at 5500 rpm. u can use the p75 intake cam or as you said you have, the b20z cam.

 

Just use the oem t stat and set honda accordingly for the fans to turn on. I have mine set at 197 I believe.