Serdar

Im looking to build a 96' B18b motor for relatively lite dry nitrous use 55 jet (at first ); I made a little shopping list, we are also on a budget so keep that in mind.

Head-
Lite port work
New seals
Crower stage 1 cams
Cai/ bored tb
T1R 4-1 header/ 2.5in custom expulsion
1.1mm copper head gasket

Block-
81.25mm bore/hone
Arp headstuds
GE block guard
P30 pistons+hasting rings?? 11.0 comp
Eagle rods/ arp rod bolts
balanced crank
b18c1 bearings
b16a2 oil pump??
new water pump

misc.
550cc inj's?
b&m fpr
walbro 255lph fuel pump
colder zex plugs


Eventually we are looking to run 100 jet. I am looking for feedback so dont be scared to inform me, thanks

Serdar

Bump for info

JSpin

my advice for building a nitrous motor is to be careful where you spend your money. if your plan to make an extra 100hp from the nitrous, is it really worth putting a thousand dollars into head work that might net 15hp? HT member cubish made this same point when someone gave him **** about his ebay header, and it really made sense to me. now if you get to the point where you want more power, and you just dont want to up the shot, then i'd start looking towards head work, custom headers, etc.

i would take the money for your headwork and put it towards a set of forged pistons.. i would personally put pistons ahead of rods if you have to choose one over the other. that being said, having that full-forged bottom end goes a long way.

also, you cant hardly give an LS head away, so i'd probably keep my eyes out for a good used head if you're worried about the condition of the one you have now.

there a quite a few nitrous heads that tend to jump over any thread that even mentions the word "nitrous", so if a search doesn't answer your questions, ask away. good luck with the build.

Ninja Mike

GOOD INFO

Why such the large injector? Is this something needed when running nitrous?

Bump for more advice!

Serdar

thanks Jspin! I just wanted to get a opinion on the list of things I had down. Well I figured headwork and relatively high-compression would give us a little more umphh for daily driving or those times when we're not spraying.

Ninja Mike

New thoughts:
B18B1 motors are cheap at junk yards.
Head work, cams, p&p + forged rods, pistons are expensive

Nice custom T3/T4 turbo setup will produce much more power than money spent on internals that are more quick to break than the turbo parts.

Catch my drift?

Serdar

yeah awesome

SFWD 1934

Nitrous questions, I love them!

So let's see you want ot run a "light" shot for right now with the intention of bumping it up. Let's face it when it comes to nitrous it never feels like "enough power" is being made. With that being said, let's try to answer a couple of the questions that you had, while asking a few other ones as well.

1. I would definately stick with the block work, just play it safe the first time around and replace all the stock cast with forged (rods/pistons). The crank will be fine, just micro polish and zero balance. Water pump, oil pump, timing belt I would replace as well.

2. Head, now the head is always going to flow no matter what. It comes down to effenciency now. How much do you want to spend in machine shop time and R&D? If your answer is not a lot, then I would jusr go through it and replace everything with either stock size or .5mm over. That may allow you to alocate those funds elsewhere in the build.

3. Nitrous. What kind did you have in mind? You obviously want to start smaller, but you do not want to purchase a new kit in six months. So you want to chose the kit that is right for you that will give you room to grow. Now do you want to tap the manifold? Do you want to go with the Nozzle system? Or do you want to jsut use a single nozzle fogger that will top out at about 150hp on a Honda motor?

4. 550cc/min injector. I like that size for what you have. I have a buddy that has an EG/H22 with nitrous and runs the 550. Excellent injector for the application. Plus leaves headroom for more power to be made later. Now the one thing that I did not see listed was a new fuel filter. I would at the very least get a stock replacement, if not then go with the AEM one. Can't beat that it bolts right into the stock location. At that point I would go with the AEM FPR. I have never been a big fan of the B&M, but hey that is just my opinion.

5. The ZEX plugs, I didn't have any issues with those. But I have always been an NGK guy. Little cheaper to get, and never had a problem with high boosted motors with them.

6. EMS? Timing control? I did not see either on your list. Are you staying stock with the EMS? If so then you either want to change your fuel pressure staticlly (at the FPR) or you want to buy a **** load of fuel jets for different shot sizes to give the adequate fuel to compensate for the nitrous. So I would suggest HONDATA, CROME, UBER, etc. This will also allow you to utilize the Nitrous ouput on the EMS to activate the system for you. Timing!! You want to be able to retard the timing when the nitrous is activated so you do not cause detenation. The MSD Digital 6 is a bad *** box for that. Has a 12V input on it, so when the system is activated the box will sense that and retard timing however many degrees you select with the very easy to use rotary dials. This will save your *** as the nitrous shots get bigger.

7. TUNING!!!!! That is probably the most important thing to remember. Don't get to the dyno expecting to just slap a 200 shot on there and make an obsurd amount of power. You will lose a headgasket (and you will be luck if that's all) in a blink of an eye. Start out at 50, then get the AFR cleaned up, and work your way up form there. Make sure the tuner knows what he is doing. After that, it is on you. Kowing where to keep bottle pressure for optimal performance. maintaining solenoids and lines. Learning what to listen for when using it.

That is just a few things for you.

Good luck with the build.

Jason

Ninja Mike

^incredible information!

We plan on using Crome most likely for tuning.

SFWD 1934

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleepEMike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^incredible information!

We plan on using Crome most likely for tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Always enjoy helping with tech information.

Jason

Serdar

Thanks for the info SFWD1934, but I seriously dont know where we're going with this project, if nitrous I'll PM you.

ghostofnyc

iTrader: (3)

you dont need 550cc injectors get a set of dsm's and save some money and dont get a dry nitrous kit get a single fogger. 11.0:1 cr is good for pump gas, dont pnp that head your wasting your time spend the money you were gonna use to pnp that head and get a vtec head flows better.

Serdar

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghostofnyc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont need 550cc injectors get a set of dsm's and save some money and dont get a dry nitrous kit get a single fogger. 11.0:1 cr is good for pump gas, dont pnp that head your wasting your time spend the money you were gonna use to pnp that head and get a vtec head flows better.</TD></TR></TABLE>

youre rite I think im jus gonna forget abt this honda crap and buy a skyon tC cuz my buddy just got one with a jamaica turbo and hes from sumwhere in flatbush, i tink he falttened the bush wid the skyon.

1700anddroping

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Serdar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

youre rite I think im jus gonna forget abt this honda crap and buy a skyon tC cuz my buddy just got one with a jamaica turbo and hes from sumwhere in flatbush, i tink he falttened the bush wid the skyon. </TD></TR></TABLE>


what the hell is a jamaica turbo..and what the hell is a skyon tc.

harv

boosted k20

why dont u wanna run a wet setup? its more safer imo. i was running a 75 shot in my LS with CROWER 403 cams and P30 pistons. the motor made 229whp and 220ft-lbs of torque on spray w/ a bottle pressure of 1100psi

1700anddroping

what is bottle prssure.

1700anddroping

also can i put my direct port on the exhaust and will it have
the same effect.

boosted k20

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1700anddroping &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also can i put my direct port on the exhaust and will it have
the same effect.</TD></TR></TABLE>

WTF!!!! lmao. if u want ur exhaust pipes to explode then go ahead and do that. only on the intake side bro.

bottle pressure is exactly what it is- the pressure of the nitrous inside the bottle. heating up the bottle increases the bottle pressure which in turn gives u more HP when u spray. thats why people get bottle warmers

1700anddroping

can i spray 400 at say 1300 psi bottle pressure.

boosted k20

yea man knock urself out. but i would do at least 500 on 2000psi bottle pressure. make urself a dual setup. tap 4 nozzles into the intake manifold and 4 on the exhaust manifold. let me know how that **** runs

1700anddroping

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea man knock urself out. but i would do at least 500 on 2000psi bottle pressure. make urself a dual setup. tap 4 nozzles into the intake manifold and 4 on the exhaust manifold. let me know how that **** runs</TD></TR></TABLE>

dam man sounds like you know your stuff......


harv

ghostofnyc

iTrader: (3)

lmao harv play nice he obviously doesnt know who hes talking to

Serdar

boostedk20 do you have a dyno for that motor that I can see?

thanks.

boosted k20

nah i dont have it. the place where i got my car dyno tuned put in a new computer for there dyno, so my dyno plots were lost with the old PC. but the HP curve peaked at 229whp at around 5K rpms and went down to about 210whp by 7.5k. tq was also the same scenario, peaked at 220ft-lbs around 5K and went down to about 190ft-lbs i think. ( i sprayed nitrous at 4K rpms)

bnut510

if u are going to have a mild build on the motor... hmmm well i wouldnt even run a dry setup first of all...

for a mild build just go with some pistons, rods, intake mani, headers, a tb, and run a 100 shot direct port... and u can always add more spray if u need it, it should be able to handle it with those goodies inside and tuned accordingly.